skylinecouple

Try the BOV 1st, if no change then report back. The question has been asked, how big is the exhaust ? Is there a decent dump pipe to allow the new turbo to flow better into a (hopefully) free flowing exhaust and cat. Have you still got the original rubber intake that may colapse under boost then spring back into position so you will never find the problem? There are people here who can tell you exactly what the turbo will behave like if you give them the wheel sizes used in the turbo. If you say the car was driving fine before then perhaps you are correct, it may be the BOV. Please remember people here really want to help, these cars are their passion, not just a mode of transport. Answer some simple questions and the problem will eventually be diagnosed. Are you still using the original actuator ? They can only hold so much wastegate pressure. Try a 14lb actuator and see how that goes. They can be had from the States for $30. Or for a simple test try putting an external spring on the wastegate lever and slowly add more throttle while going up a steep hill. Don't floor it as you may over boost and here loud noises from under the bonnet. Watch your boost and see if it is stable. If so, then there's your answer, the waste gate is creeping open then closing then opening.

Great news, I've been watching this thread for some time. Good on you for persistance. Hope you have nothing but luck from now on. On another note, you can buy a brand new engine from Japan for around $6,000 to your door. I'm sorry, but for me, unless I can get an engine builder to sign a contract to say they will rebuild the motor in a week if it fails and will have it back in your car, well, I'll leave the engine building to others. But always exciting to see others have some success. Alister sounds like a few sandwiches short of a picnic, he owes you for his ignorance, big time.

And if you repair the keyway ? What then, put it back together and find out the valves are bent ? Just because you couldn't turn it all the way with your hand doesn't mean it wasn't turning more than you think with the engine going. An engine at idle will have more strength than your biggest mate with a large set of stillsens. If the collar or keyway is dammaged in any way, sorry to say but it may be a crank out job. Not your fault, but I'd be having words to the previous owner. Did it give any hint on the test drive like, power ok then not as much, revs hard but no low end, then revs normal for a few minutes then not ?

6 teeth out ? jeebus ! Pull it all down and check everything, balancer, key damage, bolts, adjusters, cam key to CAS, but most of all cam timing, get it back on track. Then do compression test, if it fails don't panic as it will more than likely be a lot of bent valves. I wouldn't mind betting the original timing belt is still there and has lost a few ribs.

I've been tuning with the PFC for years now and always use the knock sensor display. How would you say the Nissan knock sensor is in regards to sensitivity ? If I'm aiming for around ten knock, would the standard sensor be too sensitive or is just fine for normal tuning. Bare in mind I've had this car for over ten years now and never blown an engine due to knock. Though I've always suspected I could put a lot more timing into it.

When you're tuning you hold on every cell to see what's happening then make adjustments. Doesn't matter how long it takes the exhaust gas to travel as you adjust by cell on constant load. Unless you're a wizz and can make changes in less than 3 seconds. (some tuners would have you believe they can)By the way, 3 seconds ? Ahh, NO. Only if at boost you have a 25mm exhaust. Learn to tune your own car so you tune for every day over a period of time rather than the hour your car is on the dyno. The weather changes, fuel, heat and engine condition. If your motor blows it may be that these conditions changed and the tuner actually got it right only at the time it was tuned. I think Nismoid is about to tell you how rediculous worrying about the time frame of the exhaust travel is. Shhhh, here he comes, let's see if I'm right.

This will be amazing. Light weight and V8 sound. Definately move the engine back. Good handling is more important than anything. Power is easy compared to handling.

Some people may get the wrong idea, I for one want Aequel to continue, but do a search on everything he is about to experiment with. Then with some knowledge take the extra step. Lecturers at university spend their lives reading in search of knowledge, read 1st. My 1st car was a beach buggy that I had turboed by Benson's turbos back in 1978, my god, the mistakes I made with that car. I kept going though and after my second engine rebuild with lots of help I was stoked. Low 12s all day every day. So yes, I do understand. How about if Aequel tells us what he is about to do then we could suggest a direction ? This way he shouldn't end up with any further damage.

I am so torn by this thread. Do I keep watching to see a young man learning from his experiences or do I keep watching to see yet another Skyline ruined from an almost child like curiosity. That chassis rail being crushed is really quite disturbing. Rounded nuts, taking weight out of the car for no apparent reason, installing a strut brace and bending things, very worrying. I kinda get where Marlin's coming from. These cars are the XY GT Falcons of the future and just like them Skylines will continue to be abused, crashed and worked on by fools till they are all but a memory, so sad. But the other side is that it's kind of entertaining to see an experiment where the researcher could conceivably be crushed beneath his experiment. This forum is so full of all the answers you are looking for. It is a bit like a doctor discovering a cure for the clap, writing a book about it then finding out there are 100 books already written on the subject using a cure they found 20 years ago. Research is about reading, listening and learning. Have you ever wandered why most discoveries are found by old people ? It's because they have taken a life time to find knowledge and then take that knowledge one step further. The light bulb has been discovered and you are trying to invent a light bulb. By the way, removing parts of the car is fine but the spare wheel ? The only discovery you may make is that you will look a little red faced on the side of the road when you get a flat. When you have read every page in this forum, and I think I have, then go forward, discover, but at this time with your mechanical experience read the manual for correct positioning of the jack.

Just had a talk to a driveline specialist, he said if I have changed the subframe bushes, gearbox mount and lowered the car (yes, all 3) then he needs to check the pinion angle relative to the driveshaft and gearbox. They simply have to be in line. And if my power is twice what the car was built with then I have to allow for sticky tyres and the diff winding up on accelleration. Apparently the diff has to have -2 to -4 deg relative to the driveshaft. When you think about how the alignment is supposed to be perfect between the three items then you have to wander how far out they are from mods. We'll see. There are several youtube videos on this very subject and how an adjustable arm on the diff can fix axle tramp for good.

With me, money is not the issue. So having said that I love a bargain, so ebay is your friend. I have a few posts on here regarding tramp so I can say that even though I have not been totally successful in curing tramp I at least have made a difference. Let me explain, VIOLENT shudder is what I had. Windscreen cracking wheel hopping pogo sticking tramp is what I had. They all said it was this and that, well.......THEY were wrong.Dream all you like but you are about to go on a journey my friend. I started out with shocks and springs, no change. I moved to nismo gearbox mounts, no change. Had enough at this point so ripped out the subframe and replaced subframe bushes, upper control arm inner and outter. Diff bushes front and subframe. All urethane. Small change, not as violent. Now what, oh, so many tyres. Forget that. Neotech Traction rods, well well, now that's better, still there, but softer, hmmmm. OK, so now in the garage are lower control arm bushes, roll center adjusting ball joints, Hicas ball joints, Hardrace engine mounts. The camber arms were in but got them chromed and pulled them back out before I tried a hard launch, sorry. This Christmas week I have off so will put it all in. I would prefer to do it one thing at a time to know what had the biggest effect but time is the killer. So stick around and we'll see. By the way, don't go the solid subframe bushes, not unless your idea of music is a whining diff.

Fantastic result. Bit better than my 268kws. When does it feel like it's running out of puff, revs wise. Mine starts to feel flat after 5,500rpm just like the hi-flow I had from GCG. Which was a crap turbo by the way. Wasted a couple of grand on that one trying to get it over the 23okw mark. I have done 308,000k's in my car so I hope you look after yours and have as much fun as I have. Mind you, I'm on my second engine and 2nd gearbox and 2nd diff and 4th clutch, but hey, don't worry about all that. Engines are cheap so make sure you enjoy it. A couple of tips. Replace your coils around every 140,000k's. Just replacing my 2nd set again now. You will need to replace all the relays attached to the engine loom and coils at 300,000k's or before if the car is thrashed on hot days alot. Heat is the enemy. I have replaced the coil harness just now and it fixed a little miss in the top end. Have alook at engine mounts and gearbox as well, they will let go in spectacular fashion if left with any defects from constant cicuit work. So many things to do so I'll stop before I make myself stress.

Agreed !

Hey All, I have had my R33 GTST for 10years now and 300,000k's. I guess you could say I know my car intimately. (no, not that intimately). So after all these years of replacing any new parts with something better I recently changed the rear traction and camber arms with the Neotech arms. Well, I have to tell you, what a transformation. I have had axle trmp (hop ?) ever since I put the bilstiens & king springs in. There is now urethane bushes everywhere including the subframe but nothing has helped till now. But there is more, the car is just so much better behaved in the rear than before. It just hugs the road if you know what I mean. You can feel the suspension is more compliant, softer. Not harder, which is amazing really. I always believed solid joints would be louder and more harsh but no, quiet, at least while they are new anyway. Oh yeah, there is less body roll than before. Can anyone explain how this whole transformation works ? The way I see it is that the suspension isn't binding against the bushes, even though they were urethane before. As the suspension goes through it's arc the traction arms would want to twist and to a lesser degree the camber arms would to as they are pulled forward since the traction arms get shorter through the arc. Anyone had the same experience ? Or has anyone got a drawing of the Skyline rear end going through it's arc and the stresses in which ares. Can I expect even more from roll centre adjustment lower control arms ?

Excellent work, turned out very well. I know it's only personal opinion but that colour would look so much better with gold wheels or at least bronze. The black wheels seem to get lost as they are the same colour as the tires. This hides the width of the wheels and seems to ruin the whole purpose of the wide body in the first place.

Traction control is a push then let go, no need to hold it for a second. Pull the fuse and see what happens. To be planning to make 300kws or even 350 is really going to cause a shit fight as it always does on the forum. You really need to drive a well tuned 300kw car and give your honest opinion. It is useless really. It's like driving a Ferarri F50 and after 6 months of posing and telling everybody that will listen you have one you'll sell it, which is why so many fast cars end up on the market. Listen to others, 260-280 is great, 300 will be RB30 bottom end, and around $10,000 after that. Trust me, you do not want to be in a car with 300-350kws with standard brakes and just Tien coilovers. Yo WILL die. The tires alone will set you back $250-300 a corner. You will be cop bait at the least when they pull you over and rape you for everything. Try a fully engineered big braked car with every bush in the suspension changed to urethane and again in the diff mounts. What about the clutch ? $1,600 for a Jim Berry full monty. So now you need a 1 way or 1.5 way diff for the power to get to the ground. $ 1,400. Go to the RB30 results in the performance section and read till it hurts.

Can anyone tell me how much free play there should be when you move the shaft up and down in the center bearing housing ? Mine has a little.

If the spark plug is cross threaded then while the head is off get it fixed. This should not even be something to think about. Just do it. Think of a motor as being a mathmatical equation, if just one calculation is wrong then the end result is wrong. Your motor blew a head gasket, hmmmmm, what could have caused that ?

If you change your oil every 5,000k why would you need to clean it ? What about your oil filter ? Doesn't that get changed to ? If your engine is filled with sludge and carbon deposits take it apart and clean it. Alternatively, water injection setup and engine doesn't get any carbon buildup. I'll go out on a limb here and say this, in my 51 years on this planet racing and building motorcross bikes, super bikes, classic Chevy cars and in the last ten years Skylines, I have never seen anything good come of engine flushing. There is alot more to the damage you can cause with running anything other than the apropriate oil. How about engine seals, bearing failure within seconds, even just turning it over with the starter. Metal against metal chaps, not good. And for my number one disaster after engine flushing, Lifters playing a symphony of various metalic melodies.

Just swapped over from running 3x sets of Falken 615 for the last 6 months. Got the Nitto invo. Have to say, they are surprisingly good. The 615's are very grippy as one would expect of a wear rating of 200 and being a semi. Trouble with the 615's is the time it takes to warm up on the street, not warm they are useless, especially in the wet and in a straight line, anytime. The Nitto's are grippy from cold, and yes, I expect them to go off very quickly on track. So far on the street they are sharp to turn in, very quiet, fantastic in the rain. Will be pushing them soon at wakefield so will see. By the way, the 615's are brilliant on a fast road, Targa type drive. But my, my, my, the wear rate. I have never owned a tyre that wears that fast. Try 8- 10,000k's. I changed tyres every second oil change.

Hey Dale, how you doin' ? Mick o, I have the 3071 .82 rear housing with genuine 60mm turbine wheel. It hits full boost (gear dependent) at around 3,200rpm. But there is a whole lot more to it than that. It is already on the verge of wheelspin well before that in the 1st two gears. Wolverine, Lithium and Dale, like me, have had our cars for some time, and they are correct, the .82 housing brings power on in a controlable fashion. I am now at 268rwkws. Please dont think anything but the Garrett rear housing and 60mm turbine is any good. The limiting factor is the compressor. At 18.5lbs boost I'm at the limit of my power/torque production unless I go cams. But if I do that I just get all that boost but earlier. Now, the GTX3071, it supposedly has more compressor left in it, I tend to agree. Lighter wheel, hmmmm, cant really see more than a bees dick in it. So maybe 10 more kws, same power curve. Gor for the old 3076 or if instant boost is required go the GTX3071. Either way you'll be better off than me and I'm happy. If you need a hand tuning, Call on any one of us. Please tell me you have PFC or better. Dump pipe is easy. Air filter to turbo no worries. Long term you'll be happier.

And that may well be why workshops are finding it more and more difficult to get regular customers. I gave up on workshops along time ago. The fact is they just don't care. There are now just a handfull of genuinely good workshops out there we can trust. In fact, Trent from Status is the only guy out there willing to share info from his experience. This proves a love for cars and just a little dedication and I've never been to his workshop and never will. No No, let me rephrase that, "if you have bucket loads to spend at a workshop then they really do care." I am in business and understand the meaning of profit, but can just one bloody so called mechanic own up to a genuine mistake ? For God's sake, at least once a week we get these emails about how someone put their car in to have it tuned then they get the phone call, "hello ?, Mr. Sucker ? we think there was something wrong with your engine before we started tuning it because now it is smoking really badly."

I'll chime in here. Since I've had my car for 300,000k's I think I can answer this often repeated question. How much power can an RB25 make ? Anything from 250 to 300rwk. However, Ask more the question, "how hard do I drive", "who tuned it", "what's my setup and how many short cuts did I take ?" I've been through a couple of engines now and I know when I pulled apart my first it was as clean as a whistle inside apart from bent valves, a long story. It had been caned. Unichip and usual mods at 215kws. Motor number two is still in the car and also around the same kay's on it. Still strong but tuned it myself and though it has some track days under it's belt it has an easy life now. Both motors are stock internally. The secret I think is that both motors have never been beyond 6,800rpm. They had their oil changed every 5,000k's. Fresh plugs and coils if there was any doubt at all if they needed replacing. I had set the rev limit low because I was never going to have a turbo that would make power in the top end. Mind you 268rwkws is enough anyway. I don't where everyone gets the impression these motors are indestructable as they pop on a regular basis especially with the home mechanics that make the dumbest mods then thrash them without so much as a run on the dyno. They are just another motor, better than some but not as good as some others.

Definately the top most set of wheels you posted. You'll need 19's if your ever going to go for 380mm brakes.

Do not go with the .63, I have the 3071 with .82 and trust me, there IS no lag. If you go with the smaller housing it will simply come on boost too early and wheel spin. Most of the guys with 3076 & .82 are very happy with the way they perform as far as response is concerned. So why go with an exhaust housing that will choke the power and cause turbine and therefore exhaust heat. The result from this is detonation so you will have to remove timing which will reduce power anyway. The 3071 is the best compromise for no lag/good power. Personally, go with the 3076/.82 and know there is some headroom for more power but if boost is kept low so will inlet temperatures. I think cams will be needed to hit 300rwks with a 3071/.82 regardless of the latest technology.