humz

dont be shy folks who are more gifted with rb knowledge than others, thats 2 people now who are tight ass and wona do theyre own sump

okay while my 25-30 is being rebuild i thought it would be a good idea to put in a custom sump, with baffles, and a larger volume. i can send it into adelaide and they modify it with a hi-energy sump but its 700bux. i wanted to make my own. anyone have detailed pics of what theirs looks like or any advice in general would be greatly appreciated thanx

in my build atm im using tomei pon cams and adj cam gear so you must ditch the vvt. Also the rb30 bottom doesnt have provsions for the vvt oil feed therefore some custom work must be done if you want to keep it. one reason why i was looking at buying another head without vvt for a future rebuild coz its way less f*kin around.

my rb25det head has already been modified etc and everythings being assembled as we speak for my 30det conversion, i just needed to know what i asked coz a cheap one has come up and i wasnt aware if the r33de's had vvt unlike the 32's, for another possible future build. "check for myself" now why the hell would i buy a na skyline haha

all r33's have vvt or some?? just thinking if this head will be suited to to rb30 without head mods, like the 32 rb25de

yes? no?coz i dont know

i understand what your saying dude, that page gives me the shits even though theres some very useful info on there i feel its controlled by half a dozen or so people who are using it for chit chat and other questions not specifically related to the 30 convo and when you ask a legit question the reply is more often than not "go back and read" "i really want more power from my 32/33 what do i need to do this conversion, my buudget is 5k of fluff" GIVES ME THE SHITSSSSS!!! on the other hand its real good to see thats its being cleaned up, which as you can imagine will take a long time.

"just to shed a little further light. Car was starting before, but missing like a dog, with plenty of smoke. But now just cranks, but wont spring into life......" sounds a bit like mine, cant remember how i fixed it haha

f*k! these sorta things alway happen to good blokes, like everyone else im sorry to hear about it. all you parts vaulchers lay off! show the bloke some respect and wait till things are advertised (if they ever will be) before you start calling for parts. how would you feel if your wheels were written off and you got bulk people asking for your ash tray for eg..

in my (non credible) opinion i dont think the standard oil pump can support an oil cooler, so i think when you say "an oil cooler is better than no oil cooler" that may need to be revieved. on the other hand if you have an n1 oil pump thats a diferant story.

best thing to do is a comp test.

thats a steep price for a no name clutch plate, if you reconsider by a three quarters less your asking price let me know via pm thanx

i changin my kenwood double din cd and cassete player out my 33 coz it doesnt play all bunrt cds, radio and some cds works fine. if you want it its yours for $90. pretty cheap just want it gone ive got a new one.

dude more info needed on clutch pls. is it just the clutch plate? flywheel/ press plate included?? pics would actually help

but will a welded diff lock up under deceleration like the 2ways/1.5s etc im probably gona weld mine.

do you yanks know what dodgy means??

would a welded diff lock up under fast deceleration like the 2ways do?? also those people who have welded theyre skyline diff how long has yours lasted before leaving you stranded??? ill be doing this soon with a 320 odd rwkw r33, my current diff is too unreliable, breaking traction sometime/ sometimes not etc the usual probs.

just f*k the can off all together. d/c from the cross over pipe- plug up the lines, walk to your nearest bin and drop it in. easy fix

sexiest fattest rims, i cant believe your sellin em jim. bump for some awsome rims and a good bloke to deal with

nothing wrong with an auto (even tho i drive a man now) just go down to the plex and all the big boys doing some serious time will have a tricked out auto. a few cars back i had a tricked out trimatic, with stall converter, shift kit etc- WAS NUTZ, and a few cars before that i hadda 2 spd power glide HAHA so ye auto all good and best in straight line application, and people who think otherwise dont know jack!

titanium would be ideal but its would put a semi-permanent scar in my wallet haha my dump will definately be heat wraped weight is a factor for me but i dont think there would be a noticable weight differance between the two, ive ditched the back seats for my cage, no a/c condenser or compressor, cf/fibreglass body panels, no big stereo just a deck, etc so that would help. still undecided... hmmmm, might just leave my exhaust as it is for now, and later buy a apexi n1 3.5" cat back, and get the rest custom job in same stainless 3.5"

bit confused now about which exhaust is best- the mild steel or a stainless steel. whats the noise differances between these metals??? my exhaust at the moment is a custom 3" dump and front (with no cat) in mild steel upto a middle trust muffler, from there its 3.5" stainless to the end cannon which happens to be a hks super dragger. i was thinking of changin my dump/front to 3.5" but not sure whether to make it stainless or mild???? any pros and cons guys? how would it sound if i ditched the middle muffler and just had one cannon at the rear (thats it no cat/ mid muff etc) would this be a good idea or not? really not fussed about legality, so thats not a factor. engine is rb30det (25 head) should make atleast 300rwkw. thanx

myth, mine was awsome

my head gasket is a 1.5mm tomie one.

lucky, i just bought a sexy rb30 power bond harmonic balancer for my 25/30, lucky it still lines up then- i ditched the a/c tho as the balancer doesnt use it, one less thing to worry about. my donk will start bein assembled this weekend and over the next couple, just dummied the head/block/plenum/turbo and ex mani up to see how everything lines up (pics below) and everythings sweet except the vvt oil feed which comes real close to the plenum. can anyone see any probs which i have missed?? also i heard that the block needs shaving on the ex side for the mani to fit, however mine was all good, is this normal??