stricnynel0s

ok i havent messed with tps issue, but car starts up but turns off immediately, gunna try playing with throttle and seeing what i can get it doing. also when it goes, it backfires and pops * ok something weird i noticed. i did the ignition lock, to set timing, to match that but when i look at degrees on crank pulley and whats displayed at ignition base its completely differant

yeah, msd went up in price i got mine brand new from local dealer for 90 dealers delivered the next day heh. msd is simple though like 4 wires; pwr, grnd; rpm signal; and one that either adds or removes the ground to the item you wanted to use it on. its liek a gray wire if you want it to have power in the rpm range or a blue wire if you dont want it to have power in that rpm range, quick and easy

i have the new haltech wideband sensor, the sensor also will only go on one way. its weird. i did a calibration for it yet it still reads 100% throttle. But it reads the voltages in between. like i opened it all the way and clicked set voltage for 100% than i closed it and did the same thing. it gave me 2 dif votleags liek 4.89 and . 38 but when i in put them it still says 100% and i switch them it still says 100% but when i made them both voltage for when its closed it says its closed now but always stays at 0 % now, at least i can get it started from there and trouble shoot it hopefuly

i have the new haltech wideband. i checked the tps and the way its made it can only go on one way. its weird, like i said i opened throttle and did set voltage to make it like lets sat 4v at 100% and i closed it and did a set throttle for 0% and it was 0 volts. seems like and voltage adsjustment i make forces it to be seen as 100%

i hate to spam my own thread, but when i did a wot and closed read voltage on the TB, it gets the proper voltage, but the reading still says 100% throttle. i configured it from the main, inputs and TPS, if it helps i am using a q45 tb, i was able to make it come up as 0 throttle by setting the voltage on both 100% 0% the same. now it looks like the fuel inj are working, but plugs look very bad, i am going to change them in morning and go frm there. so now my issues remains, car wont start, car always thinks its at WOT unless i unplug tps or adjust voltage, but it reads a voltage when i goto WOT or CLOSE throttle. but i can verify that the car is set for 15 degrees of timing when i did the timing lock on 15 which i was told is btdc. anything else i should check ?

sure man, i can at least compare some things [email protected] is my email

yeah lol i made the change for that tonight, now i just gotta mess with it again tonight wish me luck, i was told i should of done an ignition lock at 15 degrees and not 0, sucks i am alone and dont have a helper

ok i made some progress, the timing needed to be adjusted slightly, i set it to 0 and locked it and adjusted it that way, once i was done i unlocked it. now with a little throttle it wants to start up but dosent go all the way. i am also confused about if my wideband is being seen, i tied it into the factory side of the harness its the haltech wideband but i dont see any calibration options or anything reading it, i wish i could make it display AFR and not voltage, also i am in NJ (usa) been like 70 degrees whooo!!!! and yes pumps do prime up, i am getting a rpm displayed of around 150-300ish i am using a patch harness, the tps signal is looking awesome, actually i have a question it says its 100percent for tps but when u push the throttle in it goes down kinda like an opposite

tried changing the value to 40% i am going to go over the timing one last time, and go over all sensors, they look good, but tps might have a problem. its actually a rb25 with rb26 harness, and a q45 tb

hmm i noticed in my fuel base map, there is not a fuel setting for 0 rpm and on the pro there is a fuel setting, i think my car cranks around 130 rpm ish, so i think i found the problem right there but i cannot change it

i looked at the maps and changed almost everything but i still didnt have any luck, i was told to check the home channel to make sure it was doing that for inj pulse and that was ok. it just cranks and no turn over,, doesnt even sound like it close either

bump, any one want to check out my map and see if they see anything

i used a MSD RPM activated switch, it just adds a ground between s certain rpm range than than removes it after that point is reached, effectly turning on , than off the vct soleniod. the msd cost like 80 dollers and looks nice, it can also be used for nitrous and other things

also i went with VE for ease of tune with closed loop, i know i wont make the most power but it will be consistant and reliable

ahhh ok, the engine is slightly over 2640 it should be saved in map grrr lol i will look at it now, i have a holset hx35.. but its not installed yet, i wanna get car running good before i install it

Ok, i am having trouble with my P2k on my S14 with a RB26. It ran prior with a differant engine management, but the identical setup will not work for me when i am using the haltech ecu. Here is a copy of my map http://www.mediafire.com/?1hijydmygmi its just got 1000cc injectors, i am trying to run this VE. I have the haltech wideband tied into the ecu wiring harness but there no way to make sure its working properly. This is a map for the e11 that i modified to suit my application. Like i said, on my other standalone ecu the car starts and runs fine. Hopefully someone can look at my map and decide what i should do here is a copy of datalog http://www.mediafire.com/?5wndyyjkw2k any help would be appreciated !!

i just left it

i think rtv seized it up it wasnt really threaded that much heh i got a s chassis swap so when motor comes out so does the trans lol

Ok today was suposed to be a good day, i got all my parts i was missing and i started cranking on the motor nice and early, but about an hour into it while torqueing one of the bolts to the rear main seal it snaps effortlessly. ok no big dead i have extracted tons of bolts, so i drill it out perfectly center and procede to use my extractor which than snaps in the bolt which is inside the block. i tried almost every bit known to man and nothing grabs it,, i bought a super expensive industrial bolt out but i cannot not drill into the old bolt out. the snap is flush with the block so i cannot try to grip it and take it out. my ONLY option is to drill and extract. does anyone know a good drill bit that i can use to get this out. i am soo f***ing mad i thought i was gunna slam motor on the hood of the chassis in a fit of rage. has this happened to anyone else ? i know better than to ask this, but has anyone else only used 5 of the 6 bolts that hold the seal in place. I am pretty sure only using 5 bolts would not be too bad. i looked at it and it dosent hold see any physical stress, and its rtv sealed. any input. after i messed around with it, i am sure it can onlybe extracted by a machine shop....

ok i know that a stock gtr rail wouldnt bolt to my stock intake, do you make differant mounting tabs or anything ?

Ok, i have a RB26 intake with the BLITZ RB26 Adapter i plan on installing onto my rb25det. Now i currently have a custom intake manifold with a Greddy TOP Feed fuel rail made for their intake manifold. Will my Greddy Rail bolt up to the 26 intake. I currently made tabs to space it cause it dosent exactly bolt onto the RB25 Oem head. Since i am still waiting to get the RB26 Intake any pics of a intake with how OEM rb26 rail mounts up would help out a lot and i could compare them.

car works ! turns on just super lean on afr, but obviously works good during wot, i just needed it to move so i am happy, what would i adjust to make it richer on idle ?

14v is .56 i am in just a crappy situation, i need car running so i can move it, from garage to parking space, so i can get my replacement car here and than pull engine. i swear this car is nothing but problems. but u think 14v is the sweet spot ?

Ok, i have these new injectors dropped into my power fc, i installed them and i did one of the corrections, but for the latency adjustment, the injectors have differant latency for differant voltages, what should it be set to on the rb26 ? i would think 12 volt, but for some reason in my research the number 8 came up a lot, any input ? they are 1000cc RC Eng if that helps thnx in advance !!