dabigbolf

yeah for sure. i get the guys website. he is on the american ebay or something www.racingseats.com

hey, just thought i'd let everyone know that theres a guy in the US who is selling the 255 litre walbro fuel pumps really cheap. Under $200 (australian) to your door step. i think its a pretty could buy considering the bosch 040's and 044 go for over of $300. I am ordering mine tommorow. if you want his contact or want me to order you one aswell, let me know. Just thought i'd let eveyone know, that there are pumps other than bosch. I think these go for around $250 here in australia from the shops. And this fits straight into silvia tanks, and a lot more. laters

yeah i am helping a good friend with his vl turbo, and tonight it did look very fat. Its 3 core aswell. i think that might be the go. aftermarket radiators dont warrant the cost in my case. cheers

yeah i am helping a good friend with his vl turbo, and tonight it did look very fat. Its 3 core aswell.

actually i think it would be shit, if you are gonna upgrade motors, you gotta go for bigger and better. 250rwkw out of an rb25 for me sounds better than 250rwkw out of a 2 litre. but in the silvia it does suit. much lighter car.

so the vl turbo radiators are the go. A second hand radiator wouldn't be as good? or u reckon in the case of a radiator newer the better. i am not real familar with cooling systems. but i do know it will fit. as i trial fitted my bros N/a one. cheers

i'd love to know how much it does sell for in the end. I had a friend in queensland who sold his rb25det S13 silvia, with all the fruit, motec, t04e hiflow, suspension, blah, blah, had 254rwkw on 18psi. and he sold it for $15,500. it was a pretty mint sil aswell. and that was about 6 months ago, so i'd say its hard to judge price on cars, especially conversions. Some people dont understand the cost involved, and some do and they pay that extra for the hard work done, just for having something a bit unique. I think at the end of the day, price is determined by how urgent the owner wants to sell it. As there are various buyers out there. just a waiting game

looks tuff. for 22 k i'd expect the boot have no holes. the rb20det is cheaper than the sr20det to buy. Be suprised if it goes for 22 k though. does give me some sort of hope in the future. done know whether choping the front bar on mine will work, looks tuff with the two tone. anyone know results for this car. nice find.

hey, just choosing radiator, and i have come across an alloy radiator, which measure 670x400x18 it weighs 2kg's i been told. if i put 2 12 inch thermos in front of it, will it do the trick. I think its like $300 the guy is after. more than i wanted to spend, but are they good radiators. Is there a difference between r34 radiators and skyline radiators, interms of efficiency. or would i be better to go get a commodore 3 core radiator. and still but the thermos in front.

i have never driven a twin plate, but a friend with a r32 gtr has a twin plate, and he says it is also on/off. you cant ride any clutch and expect it to be good for it. But the full face clutches are just easier to do it in. twin plates are very expensive, and not really warranted for say 200rwkw. if you can afford it twin plates are better than brass buttons, but not really warranted unless you got a hipo motor to back it up.

brass button clutches can destroy diff's, axles, tailshafts, and gearboxes. i am getting a 1 piece tailshaft, and if i blow up my diff, i will just get a mini spool. but when you are building a performance car the brass button cluth does give u better acces to the power. either clutch is good for the power though. just like saying how longs a piece of string. many answers

just make sure you drive the brassy like it should be driven. a few revs, then dump. otherwise u bee chewing through them, as they have a really thin face. and cant be ridden. they are on/off

ahk cool. never new about that

i am getting worries about the big i will cop if i do get busted. so i might just bolt up half a vl exhaust with a cat. and run the standard silvia exhaust, so it still looks like i got a zorst. although i will be taking it round the block, just because. got to find some stock cooler piping now. so i can do so. damn it

hey, i am doing the conversion, and just got a few quick questions. - what radiator did you use? - when you elongate the mounts do you mean lower them or get them custom made? - what gearbox mount and exmember did you use for the r33 5 speed. i am having problems with bonnet shutting, and i am using r32 xmemba and r32 engine mounts. thanks for your time

well if you are planning on the setup you are after. The full faced single plate, will die very easily, if you are planning to give it some abuse, which i think you will be. after all you dont spend all the money on the mods, and not give it some stick. Example, guy with the full faced heavy duty organic killed his clutch with just 180rwkw, in 3 months. They are very similar to the stock clutch, with only 25% more clamping pressure. (around 25%). if u got 250rwkw, your options are brass button, or twin plate. Unless you wanna be blowing clutches up all day long. brass button is on/ off, but when u think about it. Riding any clutch, does cause damage. And once you get used to the brass button they are meant to be pretty damn good. But then you got the twin plate, and then thats just goes to another level. and then it goes into the $1000 plus region. find a friend who has a brass button clutch, or someone off the forums, and see how it is. you know you cant go off what people say as gossiple. Only way to really know if it suits, is to try for yourself. laters

With autos you can stall them up, and get big launches. A very different setup, but that maroon subzero car broke into the 10's with the auto, and the big stally. (that rb30/ twin turbo rb25det head, had around 323 rwkw or something) Theres an advantage on the strip with having an auto, but i think this car is still a street car too, so manual would be lots of fun. either way i reckon this car rocks. it was for sale a while back too. around 30 grand from memory.

and this is manual too. so very quick times.

i think its fare to say the car is capable of much better times from the power output. would be so much fun to drive i'd reckon.

ok, i make it easier. if someone with a r33 can go check there NON ABS braking car, and see what brakeling goes to what spot. would be much appreciated

yeah, i'd make sure everything is sweet. but if the bonnets off. heat should just go out. and wouldn't be a worry.

hey, Finally my car is making some progress. After the gearbox dilema, i have got most of the stuff sorted. And a big spending spree planned to buy and get all work done this week. pump, tailshaft, radiator, thermos. Next weekend with everything in and ready to go, except the exhaust, is it ok to drive it around straight off the dump pipe? I dont have a front pipe to connect to the rest of the exhaust. And the engine mounts are going to be modded where i am getting the cooler piping, and new dump/front made up, so i will have to go with no bonnet either. And just run the stock cooler to the place. (its through back streets so i guess it should be ok, for no cops to pull me over. But the place i got to take the car to is like 10 minutes away, anyway, and getting it towed is just not worth it. Seeing as i can drive it anyways. But yeah, driving off the dump pipe that doesn't harm anything does it? just freakn noisey yeah.

whilst you get your new turbo, is it worth getting your exhaust manifold ported and match ported for better flow? dont know myself whether its worth it, but do know it can be done. and where can you get the bosch 044 pump for $250 i am in need of a pump now that car should be started this week.

hey, i am just wondering whether anyone knows where abouts my brakelines go into the master cylinder. I am now using the r33 master booster and cylinder with the silvia brake lines. see diagram. just want to know which lines go to which place. e.g left front brake lines goes to ..... for the diagram the arrows show where the place is for the lines to go into. theres three. the lines are represented by the colours. - light teal aqua blue is drivers side brake - red line is passenger side line - green line is for back brakes. - and the arrows are the holes. at the moment i am thinking the two front brakes have the two holes at the front. and the back lines just have the one hole. just wanting clarifaction cheers.

hey, i am after radiator, thermos and a fuel pump. to 12 inch thermos should be fine, a stock r33 gts-t fuel pump and a r33 gts-t radiator, or even a r32 gtr radiator. something good to fit in the silvia front and handle the rb25det with a few mods. dont want motor to cook, so need a good radiator. cheers must be in melb, as i am sick of waiting on C.O.D.S and troubles it has caused for me the last time.