dabigbolf

i paid around $550 for my daiken brass button clutch. dont know if thats suitable. But its pretty easy to change over ya self instead of getting a place to install it for ya. let me know if you are intersted, and talk to the guy a got it off.

hey, if you still got the radiator, how much you wanting for it. $150 if it in good condition. could you measure up dimensions, need to see if it fits in front of silvia first.

is the r33 gtr radiator brand new. Alluminium? could you send me the specs of it. Dimensions etc. $400 is a bit much, when race radiators can make a custom one for $550, but then i dont know anything about your radiator, so please send specs, and pics, if you still got it. cheers i am also in melb

just wanting to know if the r33 master cylinder is interchangeable with the sr20det one. I have the r33 booster and cylinder, and the silvia brake lines dont go in the right place to bolt on. so yeah. just want to know if i can bolt the sr20det master cylinder onto the r33 booster. or even better if someone would just swap me the sr20det stuff for my r33 stuff. cheers

yes it is the r33 jatco box. 4 speed one. i am in melb but shipping shouldn;t be a big drama. might cost a little bit more but yeah. off my r33 turbo auto running gear. comes with torque converter, driver plate, selector, the box itself. pm me and we can work something out. laters

hey, got a r33 turbo auto gearbox that basically is a pain in the arse everytime i want to push the car out to do some work . so could some please buy it. i'd like $250. or i will swap for a near new bosch 040 fuel pump, or an r33 gtr pump, or thermo fans with cash adjustment, radiator with cash adjustment, or anything else such as a saf-c with cash adjustment. Anything. Just need to sell it or swap it for something i can use, and doesn't take up so much room. done 70,000 k's. comes with computer, torque conveter, driver plate. cheers

hey, well i just found out by talking to a friend, that they are 90% there to having sandown drags monthly. with time slips, and all. So yeah, good news. its not far away i been told. see what happens.

I am not to sure. The way i see it, is if they say "enter at own risk", then they may not be able to operate, for saftey reasons, and the government will not allow it. So seeing as the venue is taking on responsibility for what goes on there, they have to have the insurance (i would think). Its not only what happens on the track, spectators are also covered incase of a misshap. Thats the way world is coming to these days.

theres no chance they will build another place for cars to race. 2 is enough. My question is what is the $17 which everyone is going to pay on rego going towards. Overseas travel for politicians or what. When you think about it. $17 isn't really that much, but when everyone has to pay it. Its close to $20 million dollars.. I think the problem with the racing meets are the liability insurance which the places have to pay. If they are cahrging shitloads for basketball places, imagine what they'd have to pay for racing events. would be huge.

makaveli, u got the contact for the guys who quoted $550 for stainless steal. thats a competitive price, if they do a quality job that is. cheers.

then the people like me who just go to watch cause my car aint going, can sit in one place, and not have to drive around. Thats more dangerous than the actual dragging. People dartint in and out trying to make a runner from the cops.

why not just keep the standard bov. You get a nice sound with a pod. and if u want get a short alloy pipe from your turbo to replace the rubber hose. sounds even louder when spooling up. or just stick the pod off the turbo like they do on rotors. either way i'd always go plumb back bov, unless i was running some type of aftermarket management, or safc so i could prevent stalling. but u can run with no bov. people say its bad for your turbo, that compressor surge. I'd say not entirely true. Depends. If i had an auto i would run no bov. Like a lot of the hot vl turbos. As they just flat to the floor and no taking foot off throttle, thus no pressure being released anyways. And when you take your foot off in an auto, you aren't normally looking to speed up. Cause you dont have to change gears, so basically to slow down, so no lost throttle response. Thats my theory anyways. but yeah, cars are confusing. so many ways to do stuff, but i say dont fix it unless its broken.

Another reason it happens around the dandenong area i would think is cause its so far away from calder. I have heard of the huge laverton drags and that. But they are closer to calder park. So really they should just go there. But who can be stuffed going through city link all the time. the place i work at now in dandy probly has a 2 kilometre straight road. Where australia post is. Follow progress street for reference. Its pretty new, but its bound for some late night time trials, although only one exit. bummer. (could even have some drags inside the factories there come to think of it. they are huge. But yeah, i say give more access to sandown raceway aswell. Night drags just like at calder. Would get a big turn out i'd say. ciao

no answer, ahwell. left a message. started mounting the cooler. need to get some corner brackets and a the use of a powerful drill. my one doesn't got through metal. bummer

i am gonna give this place a call now i let u know how i go.

dandyexhaust quoted $600 for chrome hpc coated mild steel. thats with silicon and that. but i have to fit the cooler myself. which aint too hard. race readiatiors get there cooler piping done by dandy exhausts most of the time, and that is not inclusive with the cooler. so extra ontop of $700. they dont use truck cores.

very impressive pics man. nice.

conflicting views. this is one reason i hate cars. more than one good way of doing things. plus when i lose the only key i have, and need to get a locksmith out. bugger.

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u got a pic. i am dieing to see a good setup like this.

well colours were just to tell the diff. butyeah they are round the wrong way. i dont want to keep the facotry crossover pipe. i'd probly use 2 and 1/2 inch piping all the way. u are using stainless or mild steel or alloy. i have been sugguest alloy is the best. but most expensive, but stainless is to heavy and costly. mild steel cheap and not the best unless hpc coated.

heres what you are saying then yeah

ahk. yeah well if i did that i would hit the ground all the time. car sits too low with the heavier motor in it

hey, i am just after some photos or some results of front facing plenums. Basically doing the cut and shut. I need cooler piping done also. I'd like to find someone in the eastern suburbs. Who does anyone recommend? I'd like it to look like for an out of the factory job, meaning good clean welds. i have seen some really bodgey ones, and thats not what i want. If its a workshop, i''d get them to mount the cooler, piping and everything. I have heard of racepacemotorsport in bayswater. Basically looking to take it to a work shop as it will be done in quicker time, by the pros. cant be stuffed mucking around, waiting for people anymore. But like someone who knows there stuff, no backyard job. thanks heaps. cheers.

yep, and it comes with the bov. never been fitted on piping. so brand new.