madbung

Why do you find it so difficult to accept that peoples opinions might at times differ from your own? In response to your latest tirade. Of course it's common knowledge that the size of someone's post count is a direct correlation to the size of their intellect and strangely skills @ hacky-sac. I'm glad you think I'm a smart arse, It's been my proffered choice of the 2 kinds of arse available...dumb arse Bye Bye

Sadly I can't help your lack of comprehension.. Pls continue, feel free.. rage away..your paranoid sense of persecution is pretty amusing. seriously wtf?? I would have thought suggesting a more logical place to start diagnostics would be a welcome assistance. As I said before I don't think the ecu rev limits the car @ 2000rpm when you have a faulty temp sensor. Can't agree? Don't agree?..I don't care either way. My post was in response to Taipan's prob, I don't think the temp sensor is the most logical place to start... you say it is..I say it isn't. I understand you put a lot of thought into your diagnostics and are trying to help but seriously after reading one of your "helpful" posts yesterday I'm full of doubt about your capacity for anything other than inane comments like this one clicky BTW I still think you should try taking a deep breath, count to 10 or maybe just stfu and eat a sandwich or something.. wah!!

rofl...i've stumbled into the fetish room. excuse me..carry on

compulsary (part of rego) 3rd party in Vic covers occupants only ie: personal injury. You should have called the police at the scene if he had no insurance....saves headaches. Now you can either get a solicitor and take him to court with 3 quotes and he'll pay for court costs on top of repair costs(if you have a witness). Fair ammount of hassle for both parties. Or you could get his unknown (to you) mate to repair your car. My advice would be to try and explain to him that you want to get 3 quotes and he can pick from them and if he winges tell him he can come along for the quotes if he wants(might think you're ripping him off)...or you'll take him to court and then explain the extra cost involved for him.

What sort of fuel economy would I expect out of a GTS R33. Do they also have to run on Premium Unleaded? Long runs about 10ltr per 100klm, giving it some stick a hell of a lot less economical. Yes you must run theses cars on 98 ron fuel or higher if possible. If you're overly worried about any or all of your questions..running costs, insurance, fuel consumption, parts and service costs forget about skylines. If you want a well balanced car that is a little different from the generic crap pumped out here and dont mind paying a premium for the priveledge then I highly recommend these cars. Either way it's still a hellava car for the money and cheaper than say your average euro import to keep on the road.

Pedantic or contrary?? which do you prefer? In answer to this no.......if the guy with the problem would actually answer whether the car is in fact stalling out or being electronically governed as suggested I would happly give a suggestion or 2.. until then i'll re-iterate...The idea the ecu is enforcing a rev limit of 2000rpm until the car reaches operating temp..this being caused from a faulty temp sensor while it still appears to be operating as designed ie: 1100 rpm when cold> 650rpm when warm seems vague to me, never new it had this capability.. If it were my car i'd start by looking @ the aac valve but hey im no 3|173 45I<1|\| so wadda I know eh? Until then i'll continue to read a book. may I suggest for yourself maybe try taking a deep breath, count to 10 or maybe just stfu and eat a sandwich or something.. :lol: wah!!

bwahahaha I love a good contridiction Dont be mistaken.. yes it is an efi car no it doesnt have a carb or old choke/manual butterfly setup But f me if by the ecu monitoring the coolant temp sensor then adjusting the fuel mixtures, timing and also increasing the AAC value to increase idle doesnt in super dooper high tech terms = choke on an efi car My question was more related to whether the car will infact rev over 2000rpm? Is it stalling out or is it infact being governed by the ecu because of a faulty temp sensor to a rev limit of 2000rpm as suggested? The idea the ecu is enforcing a rev limit of 2000rpm until the car reaches operating temp..this being caused from a faulty temp sensor while it still appears to be operating as designed ie: 1100 rpm when cold> 650rpm when warm seems vague to me, never new it had this capability.. Anyway goodluck Oh out of interest can you set a rev limit as well as time duration on your turbo timer?

So you're saying the ecu is retarding the timing and fuel mix because of a faulty temp sensor? I'd have assumed that would govern auto choke and may make it stick on or off but shouldnt stop the car reving over 2k(might go disconnect mine and see what happens ey)..what does the car do @ 2k? revs bounce around like a limiter? or does it die and flutter like a cold engine with no choke would? also what cold/choke idle speed is it running @? Does the problem go away the same time the choke switches off? Mmm the more I analyze it the more I tend to agree...check temp sensor

Sounds like static build up to me also... Try not wearing cheap polyester or other man made fibres. You're most probably charging yourself while moving around against the material your seat is made from.

If you dont mind a bit of a hike go to lake Tali Karng, it's in the alpine ranges with some really good day hikes around the lake itself... I reckon it's a top destination.clicky>>>Tali Karng google it...many pics n pages... or if you dont mind a few peeps about the wilsons prom>Mt oberon>sealers cove hikes ect r good.. but being only allowed to stay one night per camp site sucks ass.

33 looks neat, the 34 looks like it shoulda alway been a ute but as for the 32 it doesnt really look any different at all..just looks like someones taken the bootlid off it's boxy ole ass

It'd be some random tard I reckon.. It's a pretty ghey act....even gheyer than typing entire posts in caps I can empathise with some of your RAGE after waking this morning to find one of the freaky cat person nxt doors cats has warmed itself on my bonnet last nite leaving paw prints all over the car and 3 decent size scratches on my bonnet..bastards!!!! bah..waddayado eh??

I have it on good authority that a setup like that can create more downforce than a stock boot when in maximum doof-doof mode..

sent you a pm mate...hasnt appeared in my sent items though so i'll post instead/aswell The car i saw was on the springvale side of osborne ave...so thats a right turn off westall rd if your city bound, the car was parked in the street on the l/h/s. I noticed it coz im a liner owner and it's my job to notice other lines The color stood out to me because I thought it was another black car like mine till we were right on it I didnt realize it was a dark blue and i've only ever seen 2 in that color. The stock rims on a neat car also made me cringe just a lil bit also. Anyway if im bored shitless tonite I'll take that drive for you and see if I can spot it...If I do i'll take your mobile # with me. If your going for a look tonite pm me maybe we can meet up and search the area properly. Goodluck... Bung

am interested...check this out then lemme know what you'll sell your used unit for can pick up in melb. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Alpine-CDA-9853-200...1QQcmdZViewItem" target="_blank">alpine 9835

yay for Warren...some sound advice there. If you must take it to a mechanic, take it to someone you know or a workshop thats been recommended by a person whos advice you trust. That way they wont be tempted to smell your mechanical ignorance and tell you " it's the central furphal mechanism thats totally rooted mate and it'll cost you $$$$+ labour" p.s the above mentioned central furphal mechanism is pure fiction

yeah the brake pedal method works fine.. make sure you have some 98 ron in the tank then take it for a spin, drive it normally for the first k or so...till it gets it's idle sorted then give it some stick...makes a big difference, also best to warm the car up with a nice drive pre reset so you can give it a fair blast as the ecu remaps w/out the higher risk of damage by abusing a cold engine.

Im getting about 450k's per tank with prob a 50/50 split hard driving/cruising car is a stock r33 rb25det cept for.. 3" nismo turboback, k&n panel filter, iridium plugs, cleaned injectors and an ecu reset. Nxt fill I might try an economy run and see how far it'll stretch...If only I had restraint enough to do it ( being a daily driver and very happy with the fuel consumption I dont see the value of a dyno tune or after market ecu ect... Though for my other toys the benifits of a good workout on the dyno were substantial. Coming from 20yrs of HiPo v8s I love the economy of this little asian delight Turbo + lsd + rain = fun ) they should use these condition to teach throttle control to nubs...I love it!!

Sounds like rings..get a comp test, the valve stem seal story is usually what people say when selling a car that needs a rebuild. valve stem seepage burns off quickly when you start the car. after all its just a rubber seal that stops oil running down the valve stems/guides when the engine is stationary.

I saw a car matching your description but with stock rims parked on osborne ave clayton/springvale 10pm on monday nite. I was a passenger so a got a fair look even @ the speed my mad running late mate was travelling @, but i didnt see this thread till today so I didnt stop to check for the bonnet mark ect. 100% certain its a dark blue car..95% sure it was an s2. Might be worth a look... Sorry that i cant go and check for certain that the car is still there, but im about a 40 min drive away. Anyway goodluck * peers out the window at his own cars, i've got 3 in the driveway and had the alarms go off 4 times this past week + my nice neighbour spotted a "skanky bogan" in my driveway last week also in my front yard around 8pm last nite...*heads back out front with his trusty bat. Damn I hate people!! especially those toothless dim witted pricks with poor personal hygiene that the suburbs seem awash with.

nice r33 ffs when did they move sale? or did you drive to melb then back up the coast for some odd reason

ja looks like it's a wound car to me...I'd assume theres supposed to be a 1 in front of that 60000k, being the easiest way to give a odo a haircut is to flip the first digit back..160k is still low for an 89mdl car and looks about right for the condition the pics show. A 60k car of that age would look very fresh almost as new in a lot of respects. But sadly I doubt there'd be more than a handful of genuine 60k 89-93 gtr's on the planet. where are the books?? gotta ask yourself why anyone would sell a genuine low k car w/out klm verification, answer coz it's a fantasy. Bank on the large majority of imports to have done a realistically low 10-12000ks for each yr of it's life if it's a road car, track cars can be a lot less but who'd buy one?. Geez it really does piss me off the amount of cars coming through the japanese auctions these day with no books and showing 3-5000 klm per yr..welcome to the world of grey imports!! where the best tool you can have is common sense. /end rant To finish off on a nicer note.. your car looks neat and hoping the chassis probs are not major it should give you shit load of fun for a moderate outlay..enjoy your supercar!!

Hi all...long-time browser 1st time poster, I thought this'd be a good post to jump in on, having owned many cars of different brands with a fair whack of imports among em. Firstly, just to add to your suspicion..that looks like a fairly old sticker. When I was looking @ r33's I saw a hell of a lot of s1 car with supposedly under 100k on the clock...Pfffft no service books, stickers and general trim wear screamed different. I ended up buying a late 94 with 114k on the clock instead of any of the dozens of 60-90k cars available..why? because it was the only honest car outta the lot, delivery/service books, cam/service stickers, trim wear and general condition all telling the same story. Also just to add further all the "low K cars" w/out history were looser in body/suspension, driving to me like a 150-200+k cars would. It really makes me giggle that people believe Japan is full of 8+ yr old cars that have all travelled between 4-8k per yr. Advise to all, have an open mind..the odometer lies more often than not, look at the cars condition more than it's klms and fear heavily modded imports that aren't show cars..they weren't built/modded that way just to sit in the shed and be looked at, they've been driven-driven often and often driven hard.. To my mind anything thats done around 10k per yr is low, most cars that's odo say they done less have been wound back or had after market 300kph speedos fitted for the best part of their onroad lives, reverting back to the stock speedo when it's time to sell. I'm not saying you cant find a genuine car that has done 4k per yr all it's life..But what I am saying is that they truely are rare and if you do ever see one.. the car would be so fresh you'd almost be able to smell it!! Not like the ones that the importers yards are full of..LIES!!