nisskid

mm, dont really see the point though, the tein basics costs about the same, if not a bit cheaper, its a much better quality product, including the damper. the only reason the tein is cheaper is it doesnt have the damper adjustment, and to be quite honest, damper adjustment on the HSD's is just about useless, even if the HSD's had anything resembling decent damper adjustment, the people that own them wouldnt have the first clue on how to use the adjustment properly.

dear god please dont. if ur after the whole coilover package thing, tein basics are probably ur best bet.

yeh look really tough, not over done etc, and the 9" +20 is always a winning combination.

dont do this unless u want a list back of 100's of unnecessary shit "that needs replacing" at some ridiculous price. take it to a reputable suspension place that deals with imports.

hey mate, that is what this thread is for, read through and find out what other people have run and what they have needed to do to make them fit. if it was me wanting some wheels to sit nice inside the guards without worrying too much about fitment, id go around +35 and give both the front and rear guards a roll

are they grenades or R34 GTR wheels? assuming they are grenades as obviously the GTR's are +30, just want to make sure.

my thought is 2 things, either the centrebore is too small for the standard hub (not likely) or the spokes dont have enough clearance to fit over the calipers, and as soon as u try and put the wheel on it is fouling, even before it gets far on the studs. with the centrebore, i mean the hole right in the middle of the wheel, this is meant to slip over and centre on the little ring that sticks our from the mounting surface where the studs are (this is called the hub ring), now most aftermarket wheels have a centre bore that is bigger than the hub ring so its not an issue, ive only ever had one set of wheels that had a centrebore that wasnt bigger than standard, it was exactly the same size and standard, and they were a bit of a bitch to get on the hub and align on the studs as there was a bit of corrosion and much in the centrebore so it didnt want to slide over the hub ring too easily. so first id check this. what id do is jack it up, take one of the REAR wheels off, and trial fit one of the new front and one of the rears on there, there is a few reasons for this, but mainly because the rear uses small calipers and it is very rare for a wheel not to fit over those calipers, whereas its fairly common for a wheel not to fit over the front calipers as they are relatively large.

http://www.viddler.com/explore/NAGTROC/videos/9/

bump

um, how does it not fit? lol need a bit more details.

thing is, the ascari is barely what ud call a road car, its not legal in a lot of countries, the only reason it was accepted as a legal road car was because it can be setup for the road, but the time was set as a non-road legal car. the CCX was not standard, it was modified, the enzo and pagani are just nuts and the MC12 is just an enzo with a different shell, so for the GTR to be up there is amazing.

hey mate, pretty definite tyres arent hitting chassis rails, id say they would be close though, currently running 225/45's on 17x9 +24's, were scrubbing when i went through inspection with stockies (225/50's on 16x6.5 +40ish?), so probably around 20mm more inner clearance than the stockies which were fouling pretty hard. as far as the steering locking up, not 100% sure what u mean, there is some binding which means at full lock it doesnt return as easily, but thats fairly normal, on full lock the engine would stutter and struggle, but i was told that was fairly normal as well, although made it bloody hard to start the car when ud spin out on full lock and the car would stall. id rather have stiff steering with a damaged rack then not having spacers.

id go a decent 235/45, 235's are fairly cheap, often cheaper than 225/45's. as far as tyre choice, its really hard to say, there are tonnes of different brands that different people recommend and for different reasons, suss this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ty...ate-t72923.html for the road u dont want much stretch, the sidewalls will be firmer, and because street u dont see much stress on them, even with hard hills runs etc, u dont gain heaps, but u will lose ride comfort, traction and steering comfort.

Hey, recently i was at a drift practice, and it was my first outing with new rack spacers put in that give extra lock, extremely handy, but nearing the end of the day i noticed i lost a lot of power steering. now there were quite a few hard spin outs at high speed which meant it hitting lock hard a few times, most of the time i controlled it, but it still hit the end of the lock hard on a few occasions. now this is nothing new, in the past i have had hard spin outs, but never with rack spacers. as i was pulling into the pits i noticed the steering was a lot firmer. it seems to have decent power steering on start up, but after about 1 minute u lose a lot of power steering and especially at lower speeds the steering in much firmer. now my guess is a damaged rack, not such an issue, i will just swap them over, my worry is that maybe the rack spacer giving extra lock could be contributing to the damage, and that with the new rack, once i put in spacers and have a few hard spin outs, im going to be in the same situation. i guess i can get over the lack of powersteering, doesnt really bother me and at the speeds u see on the track, i wont (didnt) notice it much, but since the swap will be relatively cheap, i have no worries about doing it for daily driving, i just dont wanna do it if its going to f**k up again. thoughts?

nah never went lower than that, thats the recommended height for performance. i have done track work on R33 GTR rims, not the ones u see there, i didnt have them long, but my first set of R33 GTR rims saw both grip and drift, never had any scrapage issues. i was running about -1.5 degrees of camber all round at the time

i ran 235/45's all day every day on R33 GTR rims, 17x9 +30 with a 235/45 is pretty much the limit for inner clearance, u wont need a flare to fit it in the guard, but ull need to roll the guard, which is something u need to do to fit any decent size wheel. depends how much camber u are running as well, but imo its perfect size for stock guards.

im not sure which state u are in, but height adjustable shocks that allow u to lower the car below stock are against ADR's, they are not legal but u might be able to engineer them which counts for something in some states. also not to mention the spring rates, im not 100% on this but i beleive u can only increase the spring rate by 75%, im sure someone can correct me if that figure isnt right. AFAIK the teins are a touch below this, even the aus spec ones.

um, will the teins pass roadworthy anyways? height adjustable shocks are illegal.

^^will sit very nice depending on camber, but u will need to roll the guards, no pulling or flaring needed.

so the thread is seized? why would u need a suspension specialist to do this?

i was in the exact same situation, needed to go through regency and had a lock bar in, lucky i had a HICAS system sitting round the place, but im sure ud be able to find someone whos got one laying around, most people get rid of the things as soon as they can. btw, what i did was lock the system up with washers, it meant i didnt have to reconnect the lines and get it functioning again.

thats cool.

no prpbs

if Russman takes the fronts then can seperate the rears. as i said before i have someone willing to swap the rear 22mm bar for a 24mm bar, but im not sure if im going 24 or 26 on the rear yet.

they are whiteline as well, just different rates.