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nisskid

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Everything posted by nisskid

  1. i ran 225/45's on 17x9.5's regularly, and that was with rims with shit bead seats (hard to bead) and run flat tyres (hard sidewall, very hard to bead). 225 on a 9.5" is equivalent to a 235 on a 10". im running 215's on my 17x9's atm and once again, equivalent to a 235 on a 10". i guess it all depends on each persons opinion on what they define as stretch, but a 255 on a 10" certainly isnt an unsafe stretch, in fact its within the recommended sizes for a 10" rim from the manufacturer.
  2. fair enough, probably going to need to do some guard work then, just to be safe, maybe just a small flare with a 17x9 +30.
  3. first id ask why u want to run 255's all round, u could get away with smaller tyres easily while maintaining the same traction. im not 100% sure how much inner clearance there is on a R33, but id suspect u couldnt go much over a +35 at the front, to be safe id probably go +30, even so ur looking at issues with guard clearance. id be going a quality 235 instead, will probably cost similar $$ and provide better steering response and clearance.
  4. yeh true, i was just talking about the GTR vs NSX.
  5. f**ka few seconds on the ring when u can have that exhaust note, f**k me that nsx sounds pr0n
  6. effort stops counting for anything after primary school, the end result is a big F
  7. how so? no point going aftermarket coilovers if ur not after performance, and a cheap coilover will not only hinder performance, ull get shit ride comfort as well, pretty bloody important for a road car id say.
  8. thats it, forgot which one it was for the XD9's
  9. u spend 50k+ on a car and u dont want to pay more than 1.5k on suspension?
  10. http://www.puresx.com/?page_id=6 18x10, assuming offset is around +15 u will probably need to stretch a tyre a bit to fit without much guard mods.
  11. haha well at least u know what ur doing now, i guarantee u the knowledge u will have gained from doing it all will be very valuable down the track. with the tight nut, what are u using? try getting some leverage on it, a pole or something on the end of a socket wrench will do the job. also what spring have u got in there? sounds like they are stockies, they are an absolute prick to compress as they are so long and are fairly well preloaded in there. i know the gasket ur talking about, im not sure how vital it is, i certainly dont use it anymore as it looked pretty screwed and insignificant, but u might want to get confirmation on that.
  12. hey mate, ur rear strut towers in the 32 are in the boot. 3-3.5hr labour is quite simply ridiculous, it takes me roughly 20 mins to do without a proper hoist etc. open ur boot, undo the 2 nuts (13mm if i remember right), undo the nut at the bottom (17 or 19mm), and take it off, seriously its not worth trying to do with it on the car.
  13. 255's on a 10" is hardly stretched though, a lot of people run 235's on 10" rims with ease.
  14. it is, but i wouldnt recommend it, it will take longer than just undoing a few bolts. its very hard to get the spring compressors on the spring in the car, and even if u can somehow get it on, it will most likely be very uneven and the spring will compress uneven, im not sure if its enough force to damage the damper, but its not a risk id take. as i said, 2-3 bolts on the strut tower (depending on the car) and 1 at the bottom, takes like a minute to do, and make the rest of the process a lot easier and quicker.
  15. 16x6.5 +40ish 5x114.3 tyres have probably 90% tread, rims are in decent nick, no leaks etc. chasing $300ono pics: Located in SA
  16. no, not all bilstein's are adjustable. if u have circlip adjustment, its pretty simple for the 32, u have to take the wheel off, take the shock absorber and spring out (2 nuts on the strut tower, 1 on the bottom attaching it to the "hub"), compress the spring if the spring is captured (with spring compressors), lift the seat up, take the circlip out of the groove and put it on a lower groove, then drop the seat back down onto the circlip, uncompress the spring and put the shock and spring back in, do the nuts back up and put the wheel back on.
  17. 255's are fine, more common size, will be a good fit, not really stretched, just a slightly angled sidewall.
  18. 215 and 225 will be fine, but as i said u could get away with a 235 up front, and probably like a 255 up the rear if u really wanted.
  19. depends what tyres u run, if u run relative sizes for each width, for example a 215 on the 8" and a 235 on the 9", the 8" with the 215 will have more clearance both from suspension and guards. 9" will sit a lot more nicer and allow better sized tyres, and still fit as long as u long as u dont run over a 235-245 up front.
  20. 235/40 would be a much better option for a daily driver, 255's will scrub on the guards and possibly on the suspension up front. 255's are overkill, especially up front, better of spending more a quality smaller tyre. also not 100% sure about 18x9.5 +35's fitting up front, id be worried about upper control arm clearance, saying that im not too sure how much clearance R33's have.
  21. depends how wide u want to go, id probably go a 18x9.5 +15 all round if it was me, but thats me, depends on what u want.
  22. u can make it fit, depending on the tyre you run up front and the offset all around.
  23. ok, but just make sure u budget them in, they wont be cheap, well not as cheap as ud expect them to be.
  24. have u got extended studs? factory studs will not fit a 10mm slip on, and 10mm is too small for a bolt on spacer.
  25. a 255/40 has roughly the same size profile height as a 235/45. ud be better off putting a good quality 235 on there, 235's are usually a fair bit cheaper then 255's.
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