nisskid

i reckon id get a 2nd opinion, by the sounds of things, most of that stuff is stuff thats general wear, not from the crash, stuff they probably generically quote to replace on old cars. with the knuckle, i gotta say, i dont exactly see how that would break, especially break without having serious damage to the steering, and as far as i can see they have only mentioned tie rod ends. but yeh, grab a lower control arm with balljoint in it, chuck it in and take it to another place, take it to a reputable place with deals with imports, uve gotta understand pedders are used to idiots dropping their cars off and picking their car up and paying whatever it costs as they have nfi, so pedders are used to replacing stuff that doesnt really need to be urgently replaced. saying that, control arm bushes, bearings and tie rod ends do go after a while and should be replaced, but im just saying that it may not be urgent stuff and i dont think its necessarily from the crash, my suspension has taken a direct hit to a small wall (about 10" high) at 50k's, the whole side of the car went up in the air and almost rolled, disintegrated my wheel, and my bearings, stub axle, steering knuckle etc were all fine. oh, btw, pretty sure this is what they mean by the knuckle (bottom right): so yeh, cant exactly imagine that breaking under the force of the steering rack, but u never know i guess.

+1, build the car for urself, not for others. saying that i think the veilside kit looks like dogs balls.

Item: 18 INCH Amistad dish rims (jap rim) 18 x 9 + 32 (bridgestone's 235s 40% left) 18 x 10.5 + 26 (ventus 265s 60% left) Condition: Good Price: $2500 ono To Fit: Will fit any car with 5x114.3 stud pattern (Turbo Skylines, S14-S15, RX7, Supra etc etc), front just fits over S14 4-pot calipers. As far as offset and width goes, PM me and ill tell you what car these a suitable for it your not sure. Pics: http://www.amistad.ne.jp/c/index.html --------------------------------- Item: Volk Challengers - Khumo Escta 225 front 255 rear 17 x 8 + 32 17 x 9 + 35 Condition: Good - next to no gutter rash all tires have at least 70% tread Price: $900 To Fit: Will fit any car with 5x114.3 stud pattern (Turbo Skylines, S14-S15, RX7, Supra etc etc), As far as offset and width goes, PM me and ill tell you what car these a suitable for it your not sure. Pics: Location: South Australia Contact: PM me

would have to be 2nd hand, as it was said, they have been discontinued for a while now.

my money is on it splitting the fibreglass before it strips the paint. dont be lazy, just use sandpaper lol.

can be done with steel, cannot be done with alloy.

knowing the offset is vital, stock R33 wheels are 16x6.5 +45ish, being 17x7's i wouldnt recommend going any higher than +45, my guess is those wheels are between +38 and +42 so should be fine. as mentioned GTS's have small little 2-pot calipers which are easy as piss to clear, so chances are the wheel will clear them fine. pretty simply though, fit them and find out, put them on, push them hard against the mounting surface and make sure theres no obvious fouling, tighten 2 nuts up, spin the wheel around by hand, watch for it clearing the caliper, watch for it clearing the upper control arm at the front, at the rear look out for the tie rod end for the HICAS (shouldnt be an issue for these wheels), then turn the front wheels lock to lock and check for rubbing. if this is all good drop the car and turn the wheels lock to lock and slowly drive back and forth, get someone to stay close to the wheel wells and listen for any rubbing.

think i might wait till i smash them by "natural" cause lol

yes, spoke design is more aggressive and the angle of the spokes responds to changes in offset/width unlike the URAS's i believe. overall a more agressive wheel with a better range of sizes/offsets etc. not 100% about the quality of them as ive never seen the weight of the the B5's, but id imagine they would be better quality as well.

my advice would be to buy URAS NS-01's, ive had a set and tbh they are nothing special either (sorry URAS) but at least they are Jap, so you know they have passed JWL etc standards. Just Jap sell them for about what drift teks are anyway, at least then u dont have to call ur wheels drift teks lol

how hard are they to chuck on(what's involved)? ive never really tried to take the lenses off my headlights so not too sure how hard it is.

i like the clear headlight lenses, not sure about the rest though.

see now, it comes down to what u define as rice, these are the 2 main ones ive heard: very asian inspired eccentric styling, and modification which is made to make the car look like it is faster than it is or using a performance part for cosmetic reasons. and i gotta say, that 2nd definition applies to pretty much everyone on this site. so really there is a bit of rice in everyone. i do agree with you though, people look for that thrashed out look to make it look like there car gets thrashed, when in fact it doesnt. imo its that mentality which is everything wrong with the import scene these days.

yeh that was only regarding rolling diametre and its relationship to the attesa, handling is another story.

just noticed u got B5 rims, much better choice.

that might have something to do with the koyas being cheap chinese cast copies and LMGT4's being a high end forged lightweight racing wheel. you get what u pay for, i just couldnt imagine paying $2000 or what ever it is for a set of cheap wheels with cheap tyres, when there are decent brand name lightweight wheels over in Japan selling for less than $1000 brand new.

much better, some black and red 18x9.5 +22's would go nicely.

lol at having $3500 to spend on wheels and wanting to buy some cheap chinese crap. +1

thats just stupid, how could stickers give you power? they help with aerodynamikz!

the first part is correct, except about the 20's looking good lol. standard rims on a r32 are 16" however, so 18" is the limit. there a new law coming in, apparently its already in SA where u can go as large rims as u want as long as it doesnt affect the overall diametre by some small amount. but i wouldnt risk it. as for 20" rims clearing, it is possibly with the right width, offset, tyre size/profile etc. but as mentioned before, the law says no, and so does baby jesus.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Revving-t218949.html

slap this person for me next time u see them.

look out for a blue tinge with the oil, grey smoke alone can be caused by white smoke (water) and a small amount of black smoke (fuel).

personally ive never been a big fan of Meister S2's.

spacers are a tricky one, ive run them before, both hubcentric and non-hubcentric, its funny because people get all hyped up about spacers not being hubcentric, then they go ahead and put aftermarket wheels on their car with larger centre bores and no hubcentric ring, affectively creating the same issue they talk about. this used to catch me out but that aside, its not the handling id be worried about, it is the safety issue, i personally havnt had any issues, but i have seen big failures, it's usually due to misuse, people not torquing the nuts to secure the spacers right etc. Personally i think that if you torque up all the nuts correctly and use loctite on the nuts for the spacers, use hubcentric spacers with hubcentric rings for aftermarket wheels, you should be alright. saying that, they are illegal.