nisskid

yes, they will fit, unless u have a really high offset. depending on the tyre, they will feel "spongy" when u start pushing the car around, a tyre with a stronger side wall would be ur best bet if you dont want this, it will reduce sidewall movement.

haha yeh, i pick mine up 2nd hand, thats why i love 17's. only issue is that when u start talking about racing compound they dont heat cycle as well as street tyres, so when u get 2d hand semis and they have been heat cycled over and over before u get them, the compound can be raped and no where near as good as new. but eh, better than playing $500+ea

yeh ive heard good and bad things about running semis up front, some say it gives you too much grip and unbalances the car. maybe its because ive had understeer issues in the past that its working well, im currently running sway bars set on soft on front, hard on rear, and semis on the front and only really now just happy with the balance. i also have low caster, only around 6, i ditched the whiteline caster bushes as they didnt give me enough caster (around 5ish), then i realised they were slipping around, so in the end they were probably giving me around 4. when i chuck some cheapy adjustable caster rods on i could still only get 6, which is still short of what i was aiming for, but the difference in that alone was massive, high speed transitions between corner 1 and 2 at mallala at around 90k's the steering was so much nicer and easy to manage and control the "catch" on the transition. ive just had the rad support refitted and fixed after an incident, so hopefully this might help a touch with caster.

how do u find 050's? i get them in truckloads, but due to being potenzas im reluctant on sliding on them these days, i was told potenzas were shocking when it came to delaminating, thought they might not be too bad, but after several pairs of potenzas (mainly 050's) im jumping on the bandwagon as well. i still run potenzas on the rear, but only cheapies and freebies i can get my hands on. oh and i have run RE070's on the front, which are basically semi slicks, i actually found it great, gotta keep the heat in them but they reduced a lot of understeer. ive run tyres such a pirelli pzero's which are meant to be top of the line pirellis, and they understeered pretty badly, i used continentals a lot with my first few practice days and they seemed fine, but the 070's were definitely the best.

nearly all the PRO d1 drivers run 400-700ps as well. here in DA a lot run 225-255 and have no issues with grip. personally i run between 215-235, depends what i can get my hands on, i would worry more about what tyre u use rather than the size, the type of tyre, brand, model etc will make a lot of difference than an extra 10mm of tread. also different tyres delaminate a lot easier than other tyres, even really good sports tyres are sometimes known for delaminating quickly.

???

and really, thats all that matters in the end

haha yeh, ive been thinking bout getting a R31 as a track car for a while now, i love the look of them, unfortunately everyone is catching onto how good they are for their $$ and they are everywhere, the amount of R31's at the last praccy was insane. the only thing id say about adjustable suspension, is that you may feel the difference in dampening when you adjust it, but u dont know how good that dampening is, as in it may feel harder, but u dont know how good the dampening curve is. from what ive read from suspension specialist and racing engineers theres only really a very few amount of shocks where the adjustment is actually worthwhile, almost all adjustable dampers have crosstalk, the different curves arnt right etc now, i dont want to compare your coilovers to cheaper coilovers, i just want to use them to demonstrate my point, there was a shock dyno a while back of one of the cheaper adjustable dampers, what came out was that the adjusters definately made a difference, but all of the damper curves except for one (the hardest setting) were all progressive curve, heres the shock dyno: now with a progressive curve, it basically means relative to a linear curve, the low velocity movement has lower force, and the higher velocity has higher force, basically this means hard over small bumps and changes which trigger high velocity movement, and with lower velocity movements, such as going around a corner it is soft. the opposite of what you want basically. you can see at the top there is a proper digressive curve which is what a proper damper curve should look like, so basically there is only one setting which you could use for optimum performance, so your basically if you were after performance there is only one adjustment u can use, which puts you back to basically a non-adjustable damper, and even that digressive curve isnt very good. so your better off spending the same cash on something like a bilstein which uses a simplistic design which doesnt bother with adjustment, it just provides a good damper curve. if your after something you can play around with, dampers like koni are probably the minimum you want to get, or if ur really keen to spend some $$ go with something like a penske, adjustment is great, but ull be paying big $$. so yeh, u may be able to notice a change in damper when you adjust it, but it doesnt necessarily mean its doing its job properly, really need to run it on a shock dyno to see how good the adjustment is.

the daily's look so much better, as much as for some reason im skeptical they are GT4's. seems in ur thread there is similar doubt. only reason i have doubt is the first thing that struck me was the angle and concaveness of the rims, for the offset they are the usually pretty much straight, it is only the wheels with around +22 or less that feature a noticeable concave appearance. also with that concave shape, with a GT4 it is a more smooth curve, rather than a straight spoke pointing out then sharply coming back in, similar to what is seen with Koya drift teks, URAS NS-01's, DT-05's etc. also the spoke shape is different to what id expect, the spoke is more angled in, from wide at the middle, to wider going towards the rim/barrel, the GT4 is usually more straight and overall wider.

haha yeh, im running SK's GB, but ill be the first to point out its not perfect. but i have to say im very impressed with how it performs, looking at 3kg spring rates, you would expect it to roll around a fair bit, but it just doesnt, it sits as flat as most coilovers ive driven on, and the same as mates with cheap coilover kits such as ISC and HSD's with 8/7kg springs, yet without the shit dampening. dropping the car ridiculously low is pretty bad, i mean id only call it a real ricey mod if your doing it for looks, if your doing it for performance, well, i think youd be hard pressed to prove that point when every bit on information available in credible articles tells u otherwise. but if it works then great, i just think people often confuse a lack of traction with being good for drift, i see a lot of people in KE70's and R31's dropping the car on their arse and running 175/60's and sliding all over the place and then wondering why they cant qualify in comps. not having a go, i just personally like to relate proven settings and information towards racing etc to drift as well. it comes down to preference in the end.

nah, i chose suspension integrity lol dropping ur car to the floor is so try hard, biggest rice mod i can think of. oh and the GTR rims im getting a free powdercoat, not gonna pass up the op for a free powdercoat.

yep, the info i looked at when i created this thread was false, rolling diameter makes a lot more sense then width of track. can lock this thread now as its based around false info.

if your game for some guard pulling go for it, this is a 17x9 +16 with a 225/45 and -2.5ish camber, if you run a 225/45 on the 9.5" u should be able to make it with a decent roll and -2ish camber. heres the 17x9 +17: http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9894/dscn9843mr0.jpg

haha yeh, stock flares. yeh in that image i was at the limit, running a 225 tyre there, i chucked on a 235 and it started scraping. need to chuck some minor flares on and straighten up the camber.

around +40 should put the wheels pretty much dead on with the guards with around -1 degree of camber, if running a 255+ you may need a guard roll. with 18's you can go higher offset at the rear as it will clear the rear toe arms unlike 17's. for the front i would run around a +30 to be safe, around that kind of inner clearance ur looking at fouling issue with the upper control arm.

im currently in the same situation as you except i dont really mind the amount of roll, i find it plenty easy to link etc, but i would like a more responsive feeling, it does feel slightly too sloppy through transitions and can be a bit hard to control at times. im running SK's group buy in my R32 with the 24/22 sway bars set on soft front and hard rear. i dont really want to go up in sway bars anymore, i want to up the spring rate as i think 3kgish or what ever the king spring sports lows are is too soft for the track, and especially drift. right now i feel the balance is perfect for drift, probably a bit too oversteery for grip, but that can obviously changed with the sway bars, the roll is really the only issue. i will hopefully be going to a 5kg/4kg eibach spring which i hope will help out a lot.

haha definately, ill throw this up but im at a disadvantage as i dont have flares like an R31.

should let you parents mod ur car, sounds like they have better taste, they bought a nice car, you ruined it.

+1, still waiting for some updates

yeh, im all for making a sports SUV with a VR38 in it, but dont call it a GTR.

its not going to happen, dont worry.

big update, a lot sold, some added.

ok, lol i dont know how these things are not sold yet, the amount of interest and genuine buyers has been amazing, but yeh still up for grabs, throw me a PM an we can talk $$.

haha probably should have quoted the whole post:

id rather the Z-tune over the R35.