nisskid

Hey guys have a Series 2 RB25 engine out of an R33, has everything included except injectors (have some nismo 555's or stockies i can throw in for extra), powersteering pump, afm, ecu and turbo. Engine has been leak down tested, turned up very healthy. Any and all tests welcome. chasing $1500. located near Mitcham in SA.

haha i cant remember who had the pic stang, i remember there was one good quality DSLR pic of it going around which i think must have been you.

turns out head was warped to all shit and is soft as butter, new head going on once it's been recon'd

haha some pics of my 32 before it went full ghetto

just noticed from some of those pics, love the blog, always has some good shit on it.

lol, probably worth giving my FMIC a nice clean anyway.

yeh mate, they also took the tanks off and checked the core's with their prodding tool (nfi what they call it) and manually made sure there was no junk in any of the core still.

lol, thanks mate.

thanks mate, already done. dont wanna use a 25 mate, have one sitting a meter away from the car too, doesnt interest me. keep the comments RB20 related, i've been around skylines long enough to know what engine i wanna use lol

engine is fine, just doing a freshen up as ive just done some work to it to push 250rwkw. head's getting pressure tested, if there's any leaks through the valves they will be checked and seals replaced, if not ill leave them.

kris, you been going through frsedan.com?

i have a list of things to do while the head is off, but keen to hear about anyone's experiences of small items which have failed for others, that might be worth replacing/checking/fixing while the head's off. knock sensors is one im unsure of, not sure if they are worth doing. it's an old RB20, 200,000+, seen a tonne of thrashing, a lot of overheating. some of the big obvious stuff which will obviously get done: head gasket water pump timing belt heater hoses ideas on anything else?

from what the gauge is telling me yes.

i've both tested the flow myself, as well as had it checked professionally, there is no restriction from the core, at least nothing significant.

lol im paying for years of NO maintenance now. although i get the feeling it's something basic, which is the worst considering how much of the engine im pulling apart to find it. but at least she will be fresh by the end of it lol

shit, didnt see all these extra replies. yep , still running standard overflow bottle. im using a GMB as far as i can tell as it's a 6-blade pump, i know it's not the main problem as i ran it for years with no issue, but im going to either a genuine nissan or endurotec which are both small 8 blades to reduce cavitation, as being an RB20 and how i drive RB20's, it never really goes below redline haha

yeh, like i said, gonna gut the thermostat so there's still some restriction, but i can be sure it's definitely open. i know the thermostat is ok, but if there's something else like a huge air lock that's f**king with it, then this might help.

cheers for the help guys, with the help of a blow torch ive unseized the bleed bolt, so ive now retapped it, and put a new bolt in with a 12mm head, so it can be bled properly. the head is coming off tomorrow anyway.

yes yes and yes (big one too), timing i dont know, but it hasnt changed since it was first tuned, and the problem has come in. it looked like i was burning plugs last day out, but ive been having this overheating issue since before then.

thanks for the help guys this is what's puzzling me, there is no reason for the gauge to read wrong, so regardless of everything, the lack of flow is what's making it so difficult to figure out, otherwise id just get a big f**k off radiator if i was just trying to get rid of excess heat, unfortunately i dont think that's going to do anything if the water isnt flowing around.

haha, been real busy trying to sort my car out, will try and get some stuff sorted asap

we quickly chucked a scope up the port and the galleries look okish. there's no water coming out though that's the only thing, so not heaps worried about leaks, just flow is worrying me. it's doing my head in lol

i think i did, but tbh i may have drained it at some stage, just put water back in for a bit, and forgot to put coolant back in. what do you mean by pressure test? i havent pressure flushed it yet, that's next but requires a lot of work to get it down to rad place, and they talked me out of it so going to see them tomorrow.

first things first, the car is an RB20 track car, it's been having heating issues for a while, i wasnt running a aftermarket water temp gauge for a while, i just noticed it was losing power. after shit came to a head at winton drift matsuri, and i was bursting hoses left right and centre, while overheating my engine to the point of steaming, we thought we'd solved the problem on the 2nd day after noticing the hose wasnt pressurising, thinking the thermostat was spent, we replaced it. unfortunately it kept having the issue the next day, until finally bursting some more hoses and ending my day. i came to the conclusion that this was probably the reason i was losing power for the last how ever many days out at the track. so after replacing all the heater hoses, thermostat, flush/recon the radiator, i did a leak down test which showed decent low leak on all cylinders, which i wasnt expecting thinking the head gasket was gone. i was confident it would be ok, my old man installed an autometer water temp gauge while i was overseas as he was going to use the car, but he installed it in the lower hose, which is obviously in the wrong spot. he noticed on the day that although the temp was reading quite low, steam was coming out of the overflow, so he took it easy. next prac day both of us were driving it, and it was overheating badly, steam was coming out of the overflow at such a rate it was whistling through the exit. once again, reading f**k all temps at the bottom hose. worth noting possibly that i was getting temps of 110-120 for the oil. i run a pretty huge oil cooler which i some times think is doing all the work. my theory was lack of flow, that it was simply not cycling water through the system, no hot water was getting through down to the bottom of the radiator, it was just cooking up top and pushing out the overflow. i could only think of 3 things which could cause this, buggered water pump, huge blockage in the system, or thermostat not opening. after talking to a radiator place, they told me that very rarely do they get complete blockages which stem flow to a still, so after checking thermostat, and it being fine, i pulled out the water pump, which also looks fine. there is a decent amount of corrosion however. there's the other issue of bleeding, i cant open the bleed valve on the manifold as it's seized, so ive been using a big bottle cut in half sealed on the radiator's top to bleed the system. so now im really at a loss, things checked: - hoses replaced and strong, no leaks - radiator flushed/recon'd - thermostat checked and is ok (only seen a few days of track anyway) - water pump looks to be ok, spins free and blades are in tact - head gasket checked via leakdown test, appears to be fine. - radiator cap is fine my main issue is there are things which could cause general overheating, what's getting me is the lack of heat in the bottom hose which indicates lack of flow, even if for example head gasket was spent, the overheating would still send hot water all around the cycle, and at most you'd get a reading in the lower hose 20 degrees less than whats going into the radiator, which would be 110+ if it's steaming like it is, but im getting more like 50-60 degrees.

TYRES ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS 14" 4x 185/65 - Supercat - 60% tread - $60 15" 2x 185/55 - Hancook Optimo (one is flatspotted a little) - 60% tread - $40 16" 2x 205/55 - Mismatched pair - 60% tread - $60 2x 225/50 - Sumitomo/BJ (mismatched pair) - 50-60% tread - $50 17" 2x 205/50 - Bridgestone Potenza RE040 - 60% tread - $70 2x 205/50 - Mismatched pair - 60% tread - $60 2x 215/40 - Fulda - 50-60% tread - $60 2x 215/40 - Mismatched pair - 60% tread - $60 4x 235/45 - Bridgestone Potenza RE050A - 60-70% tread - $80 2x 235/45 - Mismatched pair - 70-80% tread - $90 2x 255/40 - Michelin/Nankang (mismatched pair) - 40-50% tread - $40 18" PARTS UNIVERSAL TRUST GREDDY gear knob: $50 Blitz Mechanical Boost Gauge: $80 Blitz Blow-Off Valve w/ mandrel bent 2.5" piping: $100 R33: Wrecking Whole R33, tell me what you're after (no gearbox or ECU) RB25 Engine, has everything minus ECU, turbo and injectors (can include some 550's for a little extra) - $1500 6x NISMO Sidefeed 555cc Injectors (RB25) - $500 Splitfire Coilpacks for RB25 S2 - $400 GTR style fibreglass front bar (rough condition, cracks etc): $50 R33 HKS SuperDragger Exhaust: $450 R33 APEXI Front Strut Brace: $100 R33 Rear Strut brace: $90 R33 FMIC kit: $250 pics: http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/6750/img0119jq.jpg http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/4927/img0120ks.jpg http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/1916/img0121dg.jpg R33 VLSD Diff with housing and half shafts: $220 R32 GTR R32 GTR grill: $140 Brake Master Cylinder Stopper/Reinforcer (stops firewall flex) - $80 S/S HICAS Lock Bar (extremely well built): $120 R32 GTS-T WRECKING R32 HALF CUT MINUS ENGINE PARTS AND GEARBOX (ask in here what you're after) S/S HICAS Lock Bar (extremely well built): $120 Mine's Tuned ECU (genuine with certificate of authenticity plaque), to suit basic mods up to around 200rwkw, standard sensors etc - $300 R32 GTR Style Bonnet with gts-t latch (GTS-t bonnet modified to look like GTR bonnet): $180 Stock R32 Parts Suspension/Steering R32 GTS-t M-spec Brakes, front and rear - $500 2x Front Sway Bar - $40ea 2x Front Complete upper control arm assembly's including bracket and king pin bearing - $100ea -- PICS PICS 2x Front Camber Arms - $40ea -- PICS 2x Front Passenger side Lower Control Arm - $60 -- PICS 2x Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS 2x Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS 2x Rear Lower Control Arms (drivers side only) - $60ea -- PICS 2x Rear Hub Uprights - $100ea -- PICS PICS 2x Rear Complete Uprights - $70ea 1x Rear Subframe - $100 2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $35ea -- PICS 1x Rear Toe Rod (hicas) - $50ea Misc: 6x RB20 Injectors (standard) - $100set 1x RB20 AFM - $100 2x Doors, 2door, silver - $100ea 2x Clear Front Indicators - $60ea 2x Drive-shafts - $50ea 1x Horn, can be hooked up to any car - $20 -- PICS 2x Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $30 and $70 1x Stock Rear Spoiler (with brake light) - $50 -- PICS 3x RB20 Coilpacks - $30ea 1x Turbo Timer, very basic timer, manual set - $20 1x RB20 Fuel Pump - $40 -- PICS 1x Igniter Module (breaks down under a lot of heat) - $30 -- PICS located near mitcham in SA