nisskid

haha so what happened to me buying these lol?

what size were urs? im thinking its probably because theirs are 27mm as my 24mm bars just fit into the U brackets, even if it meant using a jack to press the u bracket over the bush and into place. was very tight and the bushes were bulging out the side but it eventually went together.

i run the adj. 24/22 combo, i found even with rear on hard and front on medium the car still understeered a fair bit, saying that i have a few wheel alignment issues with the front which might be contributing to the understeering. i currently run the front on soft and the rear on hard and it feels a lot better, pretty oversteery, but i find it better than understeery.

All these with around -2 camber Skyline model = R32 GTS-t Fronts: Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 9" Wheel offset = +30 Tyre size = 235/45 Modifications to fit = none really, lip sat a few mm out of the top of the stock guards, although with lower or weaker suspension they may have scraped a bit, also was only just missing the upper control arm, any lower offset or bigger tire and it probably would have started fouling. Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 8.5" Wheel offset = +30 Tyre size = 215 Modifications to fit = none, sits a few mm in on the stock guards Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 8" Wheel offset = +30 Tyre size = 235 Modifications to fit = none, sat inside the stock guards Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 8.5" Wheel offset = +15 Tyre size = 225 Modifications to fit = lip stuck out of stock guard by about 15mm, guard rolled and pulled about 5-10mm Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 9" Wheel offset = +16 Tyre size = 225/45, 235/45 Modifications to fit = sits out about 20mm from stock guard, no scrapage with 225's and running the -2 camber, probably would need some flaring if lower, had less camber and with the 235's. Rear: Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 9.5" Wheel offset = +38 Tyre size = 255/45, 235/45, 225/45 Modifications to fit = lip stuck out of stock guards by about 5mm, with the 255 tires it needed the guard to be rolled, with 235 and 225 none needed Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 9" Wheel offset = +30 Tyre size = 235/45 Modifications to fit = lip sat out of stock gaurds by about 5-8mm, rolled guards as there was a bit of scrapage on stock guards Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 9.5" Wheel offset = +35 Tyre size = 235/45 Modifications to fit = as above there was minor scrapage so guards needed rolled. Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 9" Wheel offset = +38 Tyre size = 225/45 Modifications to fit = none, sat in the stock guard a few mm Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 9.5" Wheel offset = +30 Tyre size = 255/45 Modifications to fit = sat out from stock guard about 15mm, guard rolling as a minimum needed, maybe a bit of pulling or flaring for comfortable fit Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 10" Wheel offset = +22 Tyre size = 255/45 Modifications to fit = sat out about 30mm from stock guard, would need at least some flaring. Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 9" Wheel offset = +16 Tyre size = 215/45, 235/45 Modifications to fit = sits out about 25mm from stock guard, snuck under the 215/45's under with just a roll and running the -2 camber, would need at least some flaring with lower camber and 235's. a few more but that'll do for now.

maximum ull be able to run on stock guards is 9" on the front and 9.5" on the rear, 9" +30 is as close as u can get to the upper control arm at the front without fouling, and will sit about level with the guard, rear 17x9.5" +40 will be maximum u can run on the rear before hitting the tie rod's and will sit about level with the guards, with a bit of rolling and maybe some flaring u can go 10" +30ish on the rear, the lip will sit out of the stock guard by about 15mm, 9.5" on the front with an offset around +25, will just miss the upper control arm depending on tire, and sit out of the stock guard by about 15mm.

yeh exactly, go sway bars first then strut brace.

^^yep, im going for around 17x9 +20 all round as well. wheres this special u speak of? sounds pretty good.

now i said this in another thread recently but i guess ill say it again. cheap chinese wheels usually use a cheap casting method, this means to gain strength u need more metal, more metal = weight. i think ull find these manufacturers tend to go for strength rather than worrying about weight, so although they might be as heavy as all f**k, they arent usually weak to the point where they become unsafe, keyword there "usually". saying that the problem with buying rims sold in Australia from countries like china etc is we do not have any standards and regs put in place to stop the sale of unsafe wheels, Japan is one of the few countries which has a system for this and enforces it, hence why buying "genuine japanese wheels" is often a safe bet as they at least meet the standards of JWL. in the end it comes down to whether u really care about weight, if u just want a rim that u think looks good buy whatever u want and dont worry about quality, u want something that will help with handling and make ur car feel better, buy a good quality wheel which uses either a good casting method like a pressurized cast or a forging technique etc

wrong, they do make a difference, u may just not be pushing ur car enough to notice it

yep, when i fitted mine i found a reasonable reduction in mid corner understeer, felt a lot better cornering.

with a 235 tire u will be cutting it pretty close with just rolled guards on the rear depending on camber and ride height etc. just to give u some idea: 17x9.5 +38 with 255 and -1.5 camber, lip will sit out another 7mm on the 17x9 +25 17x9 +30 with 235 and -1.5 camber, lip will sit out another 5mm on the 17x9 +25 17x9.5 +30 with 255 and -0.5 camber, pretty much will sit where 17x9 +25 will, sat nicely but would have needed some pulling to fit the 255's under, should be able to slip some 235's under there with only a roll. 17x9 +30 with 235 and -2 camber, 17x8+25 will sit in about 6mm or so, looked like they might have just touched the guard when they were unrolled and the suspension compressed enough, but not a massive issue if u have decent suspension and proper ride height. thats about all the close up pictures of relavent fitment. about the closest to 17x8 +25 i can think of is some 17x8.5 +30's on the front with with 215's, no sign of scrubbing as ud expect, they sat basically level with his guards, maybe a few mm in. i rekon ud be best of going something like a 17x9 +30/+20 combination, front will sit ok on close to stock gaurds, rears might need rolling and a bit of flaring at most. if u want to go 8" on the front id say around +15 is about as low as u can go without needing flaring, rear u can go probably max 17x9 +20 on rolled guards before u start scrubbing. but it all depends, if uve got decent suspension at a decent height ull be able to get away with a fair bit more, im currently running 17x8.5 +15 at the front with just rolled guards, u can almost see the top of the tread just coming out of the guard and it looks like it would hit the guard pretty hard if the suspension ever compressed enough, but so far theres no sign of scrubbing what so ever, and that includes spirited hills driving with big bumps and track work.

btw i might add it still revs relatively smooth in neutral, so its really a load thing, which is pretty obvious really, but worth a mention i thought.

CAS was replaced around the end of last year, boostworx charged me $180 for it without my permission so id f**king hope its not gone already

ahk well boostworx are going to check it out on tuesday. gave the car a rev today and f**k me u should have seen the black smoke coming out the back. we are thinking i might be something to do with the map now, not sure.

nope sorry. still for sale due to like a million tire kickers lol.

ok so i guess my main worry here is, it does miss a bit, but really it isnt a consistent miss, it happens here and there but mainly pretty smooth, gutless but smooth. under load it breaks down a bit, but for the power loss there i would expect more missing. basically what im saying is the power loss doesnt feel like its coming from the miss (aka a ignition issue)

properly designed split dump wont leak, it isnt easy to have a good seal, but possible.

f**k the bar just keeps getting raised with people stealing skylines ay. what we need to do is buy a cheap skyline shell, put it somewhere and rig the f**ker with some big bomb, ok maybe not the bomb but have it as a decoy which is monitored... by snipers. but seriously shit needs to be done, even if maybe a group buy of decent car alarms?

if anyones got one off a R32 or R33 if they fit, chuck me a PM as the bearing in mine has cacked it.

someone called?

yeh might get boostworx to check them out, i dont have the tools to do so myself really.

if only i didnt have this missing issue looks like im bailing.

have u tried reducing the gap like cubes said? seriously i wouldnt worry about it heaps, if it was anything serious u would notice it under load.

holy f**k, dont know how i didnt see this earlier. crazy shit!