nisskid

price drop

sales fell through, well i think they did, price drop to $800 firm as thats what i had agreed to sell them for to someone, if i dont get rid of them soon im powdercoating the centres black and keeping them will also supply some spacers for the front for an extra $100, brand new, 25mm, 30mm etc

u do realise this is the car parts section dont u? i believe ur after the whole car section sir, its just down the hallway and ur 1st left after the vending machine, u cant miss it, it has a big sign above it.

These wheels are off a mates car, im selling on behalf of him but i can answer any questions etc u have so feel free to PM me, these look really nice on the r32 they are coming off and a good upgrade to fit wider tires and fill out the guards etc. Item: Club Linea wheels with or without tires Specs: 17" diameter, width is unknown until the wheels are off and can have a look on the back, my guess is around 7.5" and 8.5" wide, offset would be around the +30 mark as they fill the r32 guards nicely. PCD: 5x114.3 Condition: good, has a bit of rash but they seem straight without any bending or any major structural damage. Price: $600, + $100 postage to anywhere in Aus. tires can be included at agreed price if the buyer wants. Located in SA but can be posted if buyer is interstate. Pics:

they are TE37's, but a different model, i think its the cup model, not sure. awesome price for that size and offset etc.

i voted the porsche, i figured if ur even contemplating those other options u shouldn't be getting a R34 GTR.

17" look good, handle and ride well, are cheap for tires, come in the most variety of size and style, hrmm.... go the 20's just to be safe

mine wasnt

i was running 10psi stock, i bought the controller for $20, reasonable investment for the power it gave me. btw it worked like a charm, cheers for everyones advice

ahk, well ive got a boost controller, and i like running around the 12psi mark, dont want to go much higher.

well i took it off, filed out the hole, i went to put it back on and it doesnt reach the wastegate arm, so i need to pull the rod out of the actuator to fit it onto the arm?

^^alright cheers, that sounds like a less dodge way haha, ill go suss both of them out now.

mm might just do that, the question is whether i risk it and try it tonight before the track day tomoz or not haha.

yeh it sounds like the same issue, i was thinking of modifying something but thought i might try some other actuators aswell. cheers

no probs

i might be keen on the rear for the right $$$

any other ideas?

i know, i hate punctuation too... how it held boost on the dyno with my rb20 with rb25 turbo with possible wastegate issue:

just to clear this up, the ones slide is offering uses a generic pressure plate, now im not sure if this guy had the slide package for sale or the genuine package, but there is a big difference. i bought a genuine excedy package off kudos which cost me a touch over $500 plus delivery, if this is the same package its a good deal, save $50 for the same product and i certainly would have bought this if it was for sale a while back. EDIT: owell its sold now so doesnt matter haha

^^just to let ya know, might not be a good idea to post up ur address on a public forum, especially with the recent amount of skylines being stolen in SA.

yeh i reused all my gaskets, they seemed fine when taken off. as said the rattle noise is definitely coming from the wastegate as when i play around with the actuator rod it stops and starts.

haha +1

alright cheers. yeh im not saying its my dump causing it, its just i cbf taking it off to check as its going to be a bitch to get back on and seal.

yeh it doesnt feel loose any other way but up and down. im using the cheap turbotech controller seen in that massive thread, it does do a good job, the first dyno doesnt use it but the other 2 do use the controller. last time i checked there werent any obvious problems apart for the C clip on the end of the rod which was gone and i replaced that. yes im still using the rb20 actuator, im starting to think i should try and source out a rb25 one just to try and see if i have the same issue. im thinking of taking off the dump and checking it, but the amount of issues i had with putting the dump on (snapped off a bolt in the housing and ended up making one of the threads useless, so i sealed the dump with a silicone as well as the gasket) im not so keen to take it off in a hurry. when i had the turbo off it seemed like it was in pretty decent condition so id be kinda surprised if it was a fault with the turbo.

yes in NM, they are obviously missing a 0 on the end.