nisskid

just need to know whether r33 rear seats will fit into r32's?

+1 my guess is 210-220. depends completely on the dyno and conditions etc tho.

whys everyone worried about getting black carbon on their bumpers, i thought carbon body kits were all the rage these days... *watches the tumbleweed

get a metal pipe, hammer/mallet and hit, repeat step 1 untill complete.

u mean the coilpack cover? no, sorry.

yeh bump

SK's group buy should elimate most of it, right now i only have the shocks and springs and it has got rid of a bit, but hopefully rear subframe bushes in the GB should do the trick.

rear sits on just 340, the fronts sit about 350, that is the reccomended setting but not the highest, i beleive there are 2-3 grooves above this one which are a bit under 10mm apart. i have the extra grooves but most are for lowering it further, if i put mine on the highest setting i reckon it would sit a bit above standard height which is with lowered springs. id talk to SK about it but pretty sure the bilsteins with extra grooves would be more than enough to keep standard height.

as i was putting my suspension together consiting of the GB Bilstein shocks and king springs using the stock strut top, i lost one of the little dark nut things that sit on the ridge on the shaft (roughly 10mm-15mm in diameter) so i decided not to use one on one of the rears, now i didnt think this was a problem at the time as it had a large washer that sits on that ridge for both sides, and that all that little nut thing did was sit inside one of the bushes when compressed so it wouldnt make any difference. but as i drove the car and went up a windy road (straight after it was installed to test it) i noticed when i got to the top it was alot lower on one side, i just took it slowly on the way back and by the time i got home i checked it again and it was level. now this keeps happening, it seems to be when i push it a bit one of the side sits down lower and stays there until i drive it again normally. now if i remember correctly the side that sits lower is the one that did have the nut, so it makes me wonder whether that is the issue. any ideas?

ahk, well my mate just had his tuned and said they were playing around with the A:F's and i had been to the place only a few days or so before that and they said they didnt have the software to remap yet but will be getting it soon. now im not sure on the whole process, but i beleive there is a difference between playing with the ecu and putting new software in it.

no, a remap is a tune, but by tune i mean the general make sure its running properly tune, not put new software in ur ecu tune. i just want to get everything running safe for a bit as it has a new turbo, other mild mods and hasnt had a tune in Aus yet.

looking to get a remap in the near future, and as much as ive asked a few credible sources, i havnt yet come to a conclusion as to whether i should be getting a tune and remap or whether the tune gets done at the time of the remap. so basically i guess im asking what do the 2 consist. im thinking ill get a tune for now, then get a remap in a few weeks, but im wondering whether i should just save it and get a remap which will cover the tune anyway. i know its a really noob question, and probably covered before but any help would be great. cheers

^^get the bilstein/whiteline group buy and put it on one of the higher adjustments, good ride and great performance, finally got round to putting mine on today and very happy.

haha woops. cheers for the help, i was gonna swing u a PM about this but thought id save u the trouble and get other people to help out.

Hey, ive just fitted the bump stop, but it doesnt give me much travel before i start to hit it. i have moved the circlip down one step from the position it comes in (about 4 grooves down) so the bump stop covers about 1/2-1/3 of the travel in the shock. the instructions say that you may need to cut it for some models, and im just wondering if/how much i should be cutting the bump stop. i rekon cutting it about a inch should be enough, but i figured ill get peoples opinions first. cheers

last set of rims sold, but still these bloody hubs and upper control arms, i swear i must have had about 10 serious buyers ready to drop the funds in my account, then bang, off the edge of the earth.

RB25's are god, RB20's are shit. sorry, dont mind me, im just trying to fit in here on SAU.

EXACTLY!!!!!! PLEEEEEAAAASSSSSEE SHUT THIS THREAD DOWN, it will achieve NOTHING. all these people are correct, that includes me:

turbos gone, although dump and other accesories are still up for grabs cheap from it.

no idea, the problem is gone, not sure what was happening there. still grinds n shit, i just hope its not struggling and thats what the stuttering is here and there. time for a tune.

went to turn on my car today, turned the ignition on, but didnt hear any fuel pump buzz like usual. so went to crank it over, started terrible like usual, did it again and gave it a bit of throttle and it made it. turned it off, tried it again, no fuel pump buzz, cranked it over again, started just as bad again (which is unusual), kept repeating this and never heard the fuel pump buzz, not sure whats happening. the noise wasnt very prominant, but like i said, it happens here and there.

yeh, i read the warranty, bit annoying. i used a question mark in the title because i was asking a question, i wasnt stating it had failed. it still seems to be working, although i have noticed some stuttering, but in saying that i have fitted an RB25 turbo recently. its been a deteriorating issue, it has been getting worse over time, now considering i have driven in 43' heat and not had this problem, but now driving in 20' heat and having it worse than ever doesnt seem to make sense. the noise happens here and there, not every time i drive it. happens when its cold (just reached or a bit below operating temp), hot, doesnt matter. the humming is one thing, but the loud scraping noise is a bit of a worry. ill take it to shaun and see what he thinks, if its just the noise, im not fussed, but when i hear something like that, i want to make sure im not going to have to be picking up pieces of my engine any time soon.

it was kind of a piss take after how many people always reccomended them saying theyd never had one fail etc.

my bad, i only saw that ud changed the coilpacks, not the igniter.

to be honest i do not know as boostworx put it in. i can pull it out and have a look if need be. boostworx are a reputable workshop, and it seems to pick up as much as the stock one, if not a bit more.