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nisskid

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Everything posted by nisskid

  1. my local mechanic wanted $200 in labour for changing it on a RB20, +$500 for the pump, but id say that would differ from the RB26.
  2. no idea, i doubt it as it does not have any of the break stuff. sorry
  3. do a search for this "problem" it has been covered alot.
  4. yeh i figured it would probably be a leak in the line, weird thing is, it only smells when its cold and running, so unless for some reason the leaks would close up when its warm, doesnt really make sense. do u 2 have straight through exhuasts, cats?
  5. bump, would love to know this.
  6. so does a very strong smell of fuel in the cabin sound about right, i have a straight through exhaust which may or may not have a cat? the smell wears off once its warm and has been running for a while.
  7. hoses off the steering pump resevoir, hoses off the actual pump, and the hoses near the drivers side headlight.
  8. hey guys, just bought some castrol edge 5w30 for my rb20 which may not be in the best shape, says it just clicked over 150,000k's. now im kinda thinking i should take it back and grab a 10w40, any ideas? also need a place in SA to find some good shit, sprint's range FTL.
  9. does it miss, or just lose power when it boosts? can u explain what u mean by feeling terrible?
  10. as a general rule, 100mmHG (1 x100mmHg) is about 1.9psi, or easier to just think of it as 2 if ur not fussed about accuracy too much.
  11. thats about 500 mmHg, so roughly 9.5psi
  12. Live For Speed great game for drifting, and its online.
  13. um...welcome to the import world. if ur gonna start a thread everytime u get f**ked around by a cop ur post count is gonna rise pretty quickly.
  14. alright i got my eye on a short-sweep electric oil pressure and boost gauge which i can hopefully pick up for less than $100 each.
  15. bump, i need to know this shit still.
  16. ^^yeh, i would only consider a mechanical boost gauge as i dont want hot oil coming into the cabin, but i still need to know whether i should be looking at full sweep or short sweep electric ones.
  17. chill out guys, dont hog all of SAU's bandwidth with all these posts
  18. ^^agreed, get a good shop to do a custom exhaust, cheaper and better IMO.
  19. i dunno if he is known on SAU like on ns.com, but GKTECH is a great supplier of cheap chinese copy FMIC's, they are pretty much the same as Just Jap, same price/quality etc, just depends who u want to go through.
  20. get a big 3.5inch pipe, weld a flange on the end of it it straight onto the cat's flange, then wack a coahanger around it to hold it up near the diff, and run the pipe out the back but if ur soft, go the HKS maybe, i dunno, i got nfi about these fancy muffled exhuast systems
  21. which are terribly innacurate and inconsistent. i remember once i could smell my engine cooking during a fairly spirited hills run, so i backed off not knowing what was going on, about 20seconds lately my water temp gauge shot up to the high reading over about 3 seconds (real handy, lucky i have the nose of a dog lol). not to mention in the morning it will go from stone cold to opertation temperature within 10-20 seconds, even after a few minutes of driving. then we get to oil pressure, lol, basically i havnt been able to drive my car for a few weeks now as the gauge is f**ked and i cant get a proper reading, and since i have a few problems related to oil pressure at the moment i do not feel confident driving it without a proper reading of oil pressure. so then we get to the boost gauge, well i think we can all say without doubt that it is a POS and doesnt even read to what most of us boost our cars to anyway. i am about to install a bleed valve along with a new turbo, so i will need acurate readings to set my bleed valve at the right level. i actually made a mistake, its a oil temp gauge, not a boost gauge included in that $300. the oil temp isnt as important, but there is still lag between oil temp and water temp so its a good reading to know. also i saw these, they have stepping motors etc and seem to be relatively cheap, but they are autogauge so im weary. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AUTO-GAUGE-52mm-Oil...1QQcmdZViewItem
  22. hey, i have been tossing up which gauge to buy, cosmetics is not an issue, so i just want to get the best performing gauge possible for a reasonable budget. i have looked at autometer and the following options are: mechanical electric - short sweep electric - full sweep veiw here: http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugeseries.aspx my question is, what kind of accuracy differences are there in the gauges? i figure the electric ones are easier to install, and i know the full-sweep is the most accurate out of all of them, but if there is minimal difference in acuracy between the mechanical and short-sweep electrical and the only difference is ease of installation and cost then the mech might be a good idea. also what is the value for all of these as i need to know whats a good buy. does $300 for a 66mm Oil pressure, 52mm Water temp, 52mm Boost/Vaccum all short-sweep electrical and sport-comp, and a DIN holder sound? cheers
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