nisskid

ok, thanks to simon, was leak tested yesterday, got between 5-20% across all 6cyls. pulled off the dump, still burning oil, but i noticed it did take a few minutes before it really started to smoke, which really made me think it was a leak that was burning from touching a hot surface in the exhaust at some stage once it heated up from running for a few minutes. anyway looked at the exhaust housing, not much shaft play, blades look alright, wastegate seems to be sealing. took the turbo off the manifold and ran it straight out the manifold for a bit, couldnt see any white smoke anymore. so i can only conclude the oil is coming from the turbo. the question is, if it's spooling up and building full boost still, can it still be affecting power? i didnt think so. even if it is leaking oil, does that mean that it's definitely the source of the low power? im thinking of grabbing another turbo, putting it on, then taking it for a power run on monday, check the tune etc etc. one thing i did do at the same time was disconnect the rocker cover breathers so that they didnt go back to the intake and just vented to the atmosphere, there was quite a decent amount of pressure built up after blocking the breathers off with my thumb for about 15 seconds. not sure if that's an issue though.

Item: 3" Twin tip JunBL Custom Exhaust made by Exhaust Technology Details: 3" Mild Steel piping, stainless steel hot dog resonator, stainless steel JunBL muffler (3" in, 2x 2.5" out), twin 3" stainless steel pipes out the back as tips. Price: $500 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Item: 3.75" to 3.25" Japanese Exhaust with 5" Cannon tip Details: 3.25" Mild Steel piping to Rear Muffler, then 3.75" mild steel piping to stainless steel cannon with 5" Tip. Price: $250 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Item: Gutted Cat, looks like standard cat, but has no internals. Price: $50

ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS 15" 2x 195/60 - Maxxis Radial UA-603 - 90% tread - $100 16" 2x 205/45 - Yokohama C.Drive - 95% tread - $130 2x 205/55 - Goodyear Eagle NCT - 50% tread - $60 2x 205/55 - Nexen/Michelin (mismatched pair) - 60-70% tread - $70 2x 225/50 - Sonar/Yokohama (mismatched pair) - 70-80% tread - $80 2x 225/50 - Sumitomo/BJ (mismatched pair) - 50-60% tread - $60 17" 2x 205/45 - Michelin PilotPreceda - 60-70% tread - $80 2x 205/50 - Bridgestone Potenza RE040 - 60% tread - $70 2x 225/45 - Pirelli Dragon - 40-50% tread - $50 2x 225/45 - Hancook/Potenza (mismatched pair) - 40-60% tread - $50 2x 225/45 - Bridgestone Potenza Adrenaline - 60% tread (slight outer edge wear on one) - $70 2x 235/45 - Nexen's - 60% tread - $70 2x 235/45 - Firestone firehawk - 60% tread - $70 2x 255/40 - Falken FK452 - 85% tread - $140 2x 255/40 - Falken Azenis ST215 (SEMI SLICK) - 50-60% tread - $120 2x 255/40 - Michelin/Nankang (mismatched pair) - 40-50% tread - $50 18" 2x 215/45 - Bridgestone Potenza RE050A - 50% tread - $70 2x 225/40 - Dunlop Sport Maxx - 60-70% tread - $90 2x 225/40 - Bridgestone Potenza RE050A - 60-70% tread - $90 2x 235/40 - Potenza/Nankang (mismatched pair) - 60-70% tread - $80 4x 245/45 - Bridgestone Potenza RE050A - 60-80% tread - $80-$100 2x 255/35 - Bridgestone Potenza RE050A - 60% tread - $80 located near mitcham in SA

ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS 15" 2x 195/60 - Maxxis Radial UA-603 - 90% tread - $100 16" 2x 205/45 - Yokohama C.Drive - 95% tread - $130 2x 205/55 - Goodyear Eagle NCT - 50% tread - $60 2x 205/55 - Nexen/Michelin (mismatched pair) - 60-70% tread - $70 2x 225/50 - Sonar/Yokohama (mismatched pair) - 70-80% tread - $80 2x 225/50 - Sumitomo/BJ (mismatched pair) - 50-60% tread - $60 17" 2x 205/45 - Michelin PilotPreceda - 60-70% tread - $80 2x 205/50 - Bridgestone Potenza RE040 - 60% tread - $70 2x 225/45 - Pirelli Dragon - 40-50% tread - $50 2x 225/45 - Hancook/Potenza (mismatched pair) - 40-60% tread - $50 2x 235/45 - Nexen's - 60% tread - $70 2x 255/40 - Falken FK452 - 85% tread - $140 2x 255/40 - Falken Azenis ST215 (SEMI SLICK) - 50-60% tread - $120 2x 255/40 - Michelin/Nankang (mismatched pair) - 40-50% tread - $50 18" 2x 215/45 - Bridgestone Potenza RE050A - 50% tread - $70 2x 225/40 - Dunlop Sport Maxx - 60-70% tread - $90 2x 225/40 - Bridgestone Potenza RE050A - 60-70% tread - $90 2x 235/40 - Potenza/Nankang (mismatched pair) - 60-70% tread - $80 4x 245/45 - Bridgestone Potenza RE050A - 60-80% tread - $80-$100 2x 255/35 - Bridgestone Potenza RE050A - 60% tread - $80 located near mitcham in SA

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yep, do you have a leak down test kit simon?

pretty much my thinking after last night, but the compression test was slightly promising as after a quick search it didnt look like that was a too bad result, maybe im wrong? and the bubbles in the rad are pretty slight, headgasket could be buggered. just not sure what to check to confirm it, to give you an idea simon, this is the difference between me making winton or not, so if i just write off the engine as old and f**ked, then im out, but if i can find an issue and fix it, then im there. leak down is next on the list, unfortunately dont have one myself, only comp tester.

Ok, im pretty sick of this shit, i've been dealing with this loss of power for a while, the cars a track car, drift specifically. Engine: RB20DET RB25 Turbo Pnumatic Boost Controller Pod Filter Front-Mounted Intercooler 3" Split dump pipe with screamer Bosch 040 Nistune Remapped ECU Power when it was first remapped (probably 3 years ago) was 180rwkw, hasn't been dyno'd since, but there is a noticeable loss of power, bogs down a lot easier, it's laggier, and generally slower on the straights. it cuts out around corners when i go in hard some times, i think this is fuel surge from the fuel slushing around, and probably completely unrelated. Symptoms: - White smoke, smells like burning oil but not overly blue, could be burning water as well. Has been smoking for a while on start up, but went after some driving, now smokes all the time, although seems to reduce after it's been on the track for a bit - Low power, no missing or anything, runs smooth, just lacks power - Laggy Extra details: - Still seems to hold boost ok, possibly spools a bit late - The screamer which is pretty good (split dump on internal wastegate), known for how good they seal, and definitely sealed back when i had it on the street, now has exhaust coming out on idle and under light load, well before the wastegate should be opening. unsure whether the screamer just isnt sealing properly anymore, or whether the wastegate is opening early - I just replaced the exhaust manifold gasket + faced the manifold + replaced studs (they were f**ked, 2 were missing), also the turbo/manifold gasket was replaced. - Actuator has been adjusted to make sure the gate arm is as far back as it goes at rest - Runs smooth, no missing, sounds great - Quite loud tappets, been loud for a while, haven't bothered with them - Looks like it's gone through a little bit of coolant (radiator was low when i just checked it), but can't be 100% - Small amount of bubbles in radiator Compression test: 120 - 135 - 120 - 130 - 120 - 120 (Cold Dry) 170 - 150 - 150 - 150 - 150 - 170 (Cold Wet) 140 - 140 - 145 - 145 - 140 - 140 (Hot Dry) 170 - 165 - 170 - 170 - 170 - 180 (Hot Wet) at this stage, im thinking the turbo is going, but i'd just expect to see it struggling to hold the 12psi it's set to. that's it off the top of my head, but as i remember more i'll add details.

i was just thinking the same thing, although i was leaning towards tofu dogs.

anyone know what side indicators they are on the C33 above? or even the ones on the silver C33 at matsuri? ive got gay orange ones, want to replace them with some chrome/clear ones.

yep, makes me wanna go 16" when i see it

that thing is dope, found a spot next to it and got a few pics. more here: http://www.inertia-ms.com/blog/?p=525

with the indicators there it looks a bit goofy carl, ditch them or put a clear lense over the headlights and i reckon it'll look rad

f**k yeh, cant wait to strip the kit off mine.

fixed.

not terrible, but unwise, depending on your ARB rates, and at a long shot, ur RC heights. inducing huge oversteer doesnt really help anything, circuit it just makes the car shit to drive, auto/motokhana it makes the car shit to launch, and drift it makes the car lack any ability to hold high angle (although making it easy to an amateur to initiate)

your car wont explode, no. assuming u mean u have directional tyres and one pair is out of wack, it will simply mean one pair wont disperse water as well as the other, there will also be slight tread rigidity differences. but as i said, the world wont come to an end, slight issues at most, nothing to get ur knickers in a knot.

lol yeh mate, everywhere u go there is a few heavenly roads like that.

^^^the guy who owns that is a champ, unfortunately the wanker FD driver who was driving it there was far from it.

balls to the wall, but does it get driven?

just to confirm, they do, bought a 14x7 +-0 Longchamp for a spare wheel for the C33, cost me 1000yen (A$13), couldnt go past it

14's should fit on the rear of C33 Laurel yeh?

car just got through shaken, riding high (for japanese standards) in the pics, bout to drop it today.

i was gonna say, one of the biggest issues i have with it is the indicator location, plus the size of the side intakes are too small imo. anyone know which kit this is? http://carher0.files.wordpress.com/2010/04...w=800&h=600 probably something obvious, but i cbf looking atm haha

not my thing, just prefer the other looks. that and i dont like the current kit