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nisskid

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  1. nisskid
    cheers mate, like i said, turbo hasn't been fully decided, so helps to have some advice on that side of things. have a few blocks which will be sonic tested first to make sure there are no issues and that they are suitable. it's probably a better option to run a bigger turbo, but at lower boost, if anyone has any suggestions i'm all ears as that's part of the advice i'm chasing. i have some T04E's sitting around the place atm, i know they aren't a lot of people's fav turbo's, and i'd have to get specs, but they are are another option. We are planning on using a crank trigger setup as well. thanks.
  2. nisskid
    there is room to go bigger, if the turbo runs out of puff then that is obviously an issue, which we're currently looking into, however the idea is not to make more torque or power, but to be able to run the gears out longer with shorter diffs is where the benefit comes from. remember, this is not about power figures, it's about how it gets put to the ground. i will be running to around 9000rpm, that part isn't up for debate.
  3. nisskid
    sorry, it will be running nitto pump. yeh that's seems to be around the mark with camshafts, but wondering what off the shelf cams people would recommend, there might be only a small difference in specs, but im sure there are guys out there who will have tested them back to back and can give some insight. revving the engine the same reason any race car revs their engine, basic maths. yes on the dyno it doesn't look any more impressive, but when you're able to run a 4.9 diff while still increasing your speed limit in each gear from a 4.1, it shows on track. revving to 7000rpm would defeat the point of the build, i enjoy revvy, peaky engines.
  4. nisskid
    Hey everyone, just looking for some info into setting up an RB26 for high RPM, mostly interested in setup for the head, however any info on bottom end would be helpful as well. Currently the plan is oil accumulator setup, balanced crank, forged rods/pistons, restrictors, additional oil drain etc. the turbo will probably be a TD06 25G, with a power band from 5-9500 rpm. Some ideas as far as manifold setup, cam setup, springs, whether any head modification is worthwhile etc etc. anything would be appreciated. thanks.
  5. nisskid
    Hey guys, recently was given a M800 to go with my current setup, which is an RB20, TD06-20G on E85 running 25psi, wanting to go from ground up with the wiring as i'm done with stock wiring and the bullshit that comes with it. As someone who hasn't done this before, i'm looking for as much advice about every aspect of rewiring an engine in general, although anything specific to installing an Motec M800 or similar ECU, and anything specific to RB20's as well. Wiring diagrams, sensors, tips and tricks, wiring specs, tooling, anything you can think of that would help, as mentioned i'm fairly new to wiring aftermarket ecu's in. So far i just have the ecu unit, and some wiring with plugs, it's a 2nd hand unit, so not sure exactly what i will have to buy to support it etc. cheers
  6. nisskid
    i don't use enkei's as although their casting process is reasonable, they generally preference lightweight over strength a little more than i'd like, so although they are reasonably strong for their weight, they still aren't strong. Good for a lot of cars which are primarily concerned with unsprung weight and are happy to write off wheels as they bend them, but for me i need to know mine will take a bump and at worst i'll just have to take to them with a sledgie.
  7. nisskid
    with the silencers in it's reasonable, without them it's a pretty notey exhaust, sounds amazing and isn't stupid loud, but definitely not a stealth exhaust without the silencers in.
  8. nisskid
  9. nisskid
    it's like ikea furniture, it comes unfinished when you buy it, you've gotta drive it first to get the slanted spoke effect.
  10. nisskid
    really? you're now debating the practicality of my 100% hypothetical example as the basis of your argument? WOW
  11. nisskid
    not a ticking bomb, but it definitely has backfired. there are more true facts and educated opinions against ROTA's in here than for them, so a thread that was meant to support ROTA's is now just another thread in the long line of them which just shows how shit they are.
  12. nisskid
    what the hell are you on about? A: it doesn't need to be the same price, if 2nd hand wheels cost 1/16th of the price of new wheels, no one would buy new wheels, if they are 4/6th of the price, a lot of people would rather buy new. B: cheap wheels will always exist, there is nothing ethically wrong with cheap wheels, they are just shit quality. it is ethically wrong when the cheap wheel is deliberately replicating a more expensive wheel in order to steal the market that the genuine brand has built up over years of selling a quality product, building reputation, marketing (often through sponsoring and supporting racers etc), R&D, trial and error, all which costs huge $$ and is what powers innovation. and for the record, the wheels i buy in Japan will get melted down if i don't buy them, my broker literally gets the same in scrap alloy as he sells them to me for, so he scraps what i or he doesn't use.
  13. nisskid
    by creating demand within the 2nd hand market you drive prices up and decrease supply, in turn create more demand for the new products. More importantly, you simply aren't supporting the fake wheel market, which is only there because there are people willing to buy there stuff, if no one bought them, it wouldn't exist, and the genuine market wouldn't be strangled.
  14. nisskid
    Hey guys have a BLITZ SBC I-D here, works perfectly, great condition. Great for controlling your boost easily and accurately, really good unit! $340 Located near Mitcham in SA but can post anywhere Last auto saved: 19:50:34
  15. nisskid
    Hey guys, have a NISMO 2 way diff here in a 5-bolt housing with half shafts, it comes from a non-abs R32 but will fit S13/A31/C33's, will also fit non-abs S14/R33's and others if you change the back hat (5 minute job). Has 4.11 gearing, great condition, ready to bolt in! $850 Located near Mitcham in SA but can post anywhere.
  16. nisskid
    Hey guys, have a few different exhausts from Ceffy's and Laurels Twin Muffler/Tip 3" Stainless Steel Cat-back Exhaust w/ Silencers - $450 --------------------------------- Single Muffler Stainless Steel Cat-back Exhaust - $300 --------------------------------- 3" Stainless Steel Cat-back Straight Through Exhaust (rough condition - $150 All Located near Mitcham in SA, can send anywhere.
  17. nisskid
    is what someone would say if they had no idea how to respond to a post.
  18. nisskid
    there is a difference between cheap crappy wheels, and copy wheels, even though basically every copy wheel is cheap crap. but there are a lot of japanese branded wheels like origin, uras etc which outsource their production from china/taiwan and produce some pretty crap wheels, but are original designs and build their market upon their own strong brand name and attractive design, they aren't depending on providing a product which people buy to simply make it look like they have an already established product at a fraction of the price. most of the junk wheels i end up skidding over there are usually ones that either i get on the car when i buy it (i buy a lot of cars over there), or get given when the person can't store them there, rarely i pay anything for them, but occasionally i'll pay $20 or so for a pair. picking some wheels out of a junk pile that have been sitting there for years isn't killing the genuine wheel industry...
  19. nisskid
    for me, i run cheap wheels when im in japan because over there you can literally pick them up for $20 a pair, they become nearly as disposable as the tyres mounted to them, it's good because they create a fail point so they break before anything else does. but here in aus i have a decent enough collection of wheels, and strong enough suspension that it's not a problem.
  20. nisskid
    that's the point, you won't. the problem is people will often put up pictures with broken wheels, and use that as proof of how shit a wheel is, the fact that a wheel is broken doesn't prove that it's shit, it's how easily it's broken, and how it broke. people might put a pic up of a broken TE37 and say yeh see, good wheels are weak too, because they are idiots. a picture like that one just put up we can't determine how hard the hit was, but we can determine how it broke. that very brittle crumbling of the cast along the rim edge is so common to happen to cheap wheels, i see so many break like that, ive never see a well built wheel break like that, usually there is evidence of a much larger hit before you ever see any distortion or breakage.
  21. nisskid
    there are pictures around of good quality wheels broken, but it's how the wheel fails that tells you how shit the quality of it is. this picture shows a classic failure from a poorly built wheel, you will very rarely, if ever find a well build wheel failing like this, i've see a million cheap wheels fail like this however.
  22. nisskid
    at large radius corners with high G's and big slip angles, yes your rears will be pointing towards the exit, but like i said, with even the most wild slip angles, on tight radius corners your average grip car isn't coming anywhere near the rear wheels pointing towards the exit.
  23. nisskid
    Gee, what a rare sight on SAU, short sighted grip elitists who can't understand the concept of appreciating each motorsport for what it is.
  24. nisskid
    i think you just said a whole lot of words without really making sense. you might be thinking of powersliding, but you don't need bulk longitudinal drive to drift, a lot of drift cars dont have much of it, but the good thing is if you do have it, with drift you can use it to steer the car as the whole car is pointed towards the exit of the corner as opposed to even your most wild slip angle a grip car might carry where the rears are still pointing and pushing you towards the outside of the corner (ie not where you wanna go). drift is the very essence of car balance, the fact that it's been basterdised into barely more than a powerskid comp in some areas of the world doesn't take away from the fact that the sport was formed in cars which didn't have enough power to even do a standstill burnout, they used careful weight shifts and well placed line to continue a drift.
  25. nisskid
    lol, you would have been amazingly wrong.
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