nisskid

with stretch and camber yes

that would have been so much funnier if you refereed to youself in the third person

this is my main worry, i guess ill be the lab rat on this one, ill provide extensive coverage on it if i do, if anyone is interested unfortunately my sponsor wasnt too happy last time i spent 2hrs on the aligner playing with bump steer while customer cars needed to be done, so will have to get on my knees to get an idea this time lol

yeh definitely, im a skyline man through and through, have been since i was 10, its just a pity the 32's chassis is made out of cheese lol

i have spent too much $$ and too much time to throw it away, it would make a good circuit car, but it just isnt my focus atm, i couldnt handle seeing my 32 sitting around collecting dust, anyone who knows me and my car will tell you how much i love the thing, and to love the thing means seeing it getting used for what it was made for. saying that, s14's are a better drift car, so i was thinking next visit to japan, ill buy a s14, modify the knuckles over there, drift it there, then transplant the subframe from it (after i modify it like i have my s13 one), then just chuck the whole front end on, including rack etc. the front lower control arms will be modified, lengthened then made to suit delrin bushes to replace stock bushes, camber tops etc, that gives me solid mounting up front, camber adj etc etc

yeh but my car is much different to the driftworks 32, much different drifting, they are ultimately a competition car, mine is about pushing it to the limit, ridiculous entries etc, consistency and speed arent my main focus. they wouldnt use much more angle as simple they will lose a bit of speed with too much angle

i have NP wonder knuckles atm im getting good lock, but i want to start getting ridiculous. im not worried about guard rubbing atm, and im running 225/45's on 17x9 -5, so i have a decent amount of clearance from chassis rail and caster rods. the idea of going with the s14 front end just seems to be easy, simplifies the front end, and gives me an easy lock solution. i think if it was a dedicated circuit car, it would be a different story, but atm it see's more drift, and at a competitive level, so that's the priority. s14's are a better drift car, its just im a skyline man, and always will be.

Ok, i can see this thread being met with resistance for 2 main reason: 1: it probably should be in the suspension tech section 2: who the f**k would want to put mac strut in a skyline? well to answer: 1: I need some people with a clue, and unfortunately, questions that aren't asking what coilover to buy, what's this noise, or will these wheels fit, in the sus section, go pretty much unanswered, and i know people in here have experience with both d/wishbone and mac strut setups. 2: It's mostly a drift thing, quite simply the S-chassis is taken care of better in the A/M for drift specific modifications, most namely knuckles, getting rid of the d/wishbone setup will allow me to get more lock. I guess my question is, from a geometry stand point, what are people's thoughts on the conversion? Would i be attempting the unthinkable? I'm still unsure whether it's worth sticking with the d/wishbone setup and getting as much lock out of that as possible, or whether the disadvantages of the mac strut setup will outweigh any benefits. This is an example of the conversion, undertaken by driftworks: http://www.driftworks.com/2010/06/the-drif...sion-explained/

yeh, just shit.

still drifted beautifully!! this is how she ended the weekend, chassis still straight, mechanically sound, purring like a kitten this is the kind of stuff that gave the car its "unique" shape

lol, well it looked bad, but all the lights worked and it drove straight, so there was no reason to do anything about it this on the other hand: lol

pics of my car? where? i posted a link to my cars to prove that i dont run copy items, as thats what i was being accused of. completely relevant. its changed because we are no longer at war with them... you being old enough as to remember that period, should also remember the reason people didnt buy products from japan were due to that little grudge we australians held from that whole killing each other and having our own soil bombed thing. wow, weird, i guess all those big factories i saw in Japan are big fronts. yes a lot outsource to china and taiwan, to say they all do is naive however. even then, thats not to say all companies that outsource are shit, R&D, design and intellectual property play huge roles, but each product is different, each product requires different balances between design and manufacturing to achieve what is considered a quality product, wheels for example rely heavily on the manufacturing for the quality of the product.

http://www.rays-msc.com/html/concept.html

firstly, look at who the money buying smarts post is directed at, FineLine. afaik, you're not FineLine. 2ndly, why are you trying to turn this into a pissing match? try and have an argument where you just argue your point, i dont care about how many wheels uve had, why is that relevant? from what it looks like, your basically saying that you only buy good brand wheels, if anything, shouldn't that make you on my side? lol and no, the rear bar protruding from the standard position, but still being secured properly is not dangerous, relevance? as far as taiwan vs china, ill have to quote from an earlier post in 2009: yes taiwan is better, relevance? thanks to a pm that was sent to me with this quote: summing up, you argued a point which wasnt directed at you, you then argued 3 completely irrelevant points, then you argued a point that's just completely factually untrue, and has just been proven wrong.

oh, highimpact, k. lol before you embarrass yourself, check ur facts, my last 2 wheels have been italian and german, built in germany and italy, not in taiwan, not in japan. before that? yes japanese, volk gt-p's, forged disk, spun rim, made at one of these locations (the forging factories) Headquarters 7-11-12 Nagayoshi Deto, Hirano-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka Yao factory 4-4-17 Minamikamei-cho, Yao-shi, Osaka Second factory 2-3-15 Minaminocho, Atobe, Yao-shi, Osaka Nara factory Nara Kogyodanchi, Techno-park, Sumikawa-cho, Gojo-shi, Nara i have no allegiances to japan, i base products on their own merit, hence my car is made up of parts from over 10 different countries. i agree that most wheels branded with japanese companies are built in china/taiwan, your point? rays are not built in a mass production chinese factory, cheap, with a bunch of other brands, they are built in-house in their own factories.

cool, keep up your theory of money buys smarts, it destroys any credibility you had for anyone with half a clue and in turn helps my argument.

Well here's the great thing about information, it's quite versatile, it can in fact be learned and in fact passed between parties, you don't even have to experience it all first hand to acquire said information. Then once you possess this information, you can use it to directly influence your own actions, or even pass it on to another person to help them influence their actions. See you now live in the time of the greatest information highway, the internet, where there are less and less excuses to be ignorant, i use information from around the world to form an opinion on something, then i pass that opinion onto others. Say what you want about the process, but it worked this time.

mm, my 2 cars, go for ur life: http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=144873 http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=432410 probably worth noting i didnt build the 2dr myself. i have some cheap stuff, no blatant rip-off stuff tho.

they are work equip 01 copies, a hugely popular nostalgia rim

wow, seems as though the same arguments are being spewed up time after time. even though they have nothing to do with the main opposing argument. a few points of the argument: - no one said ALL cast wheels are weak, good cast wheels are good, forged are more often stronger, but not always. Cast vs Forged is more related to weight:strength, rather than absolute strength. Some wheels are designed to be stupidly lightweight, and although take advantage of an expensive manufacturing process like forging, are still relatively weak due to how little metal they use to achieve super-lightweight wheels, some are the opposite, it all varies. - ROTA's are not good quality cast wheels, besides having a poor reputation of breaking easily, ultimately they are a cheap chinese/taiwanese wheel no different to your cheap junk that you buy from bob jane to put on ur festiva, just use different designs and are marketed differently. - The above fact is fine, for most applications, but for the application of a big heavy supercar, doing track work, putting huge stress on the wheels, it's just not suited to it. - as a side argument, not so much relevant here but worth adding, personally i wouldnt support ROTA for the simple fact that they are ripping off the intellectual property of the manufacturers who actually bring the car scene new fresh ideas and new technology, and in turn slowly kill them. Buying ROTA instead of the genuine item is killing wheel innovation. as Roy touched on, this blatant replication without any real idea what's going on leads to poor copies with the cosmetic design ok, but the mechanical design different.

for the record, many people have been before him testing ROTA's, that's how they got their bad reputation. Volk (Rays) got quite a good reputation for constantly proving itself in racing applications by private owners and racing teams, eg. NISMO.

although if we're honest, 99% of cast wheels are cheap junk u pick up from ur local bob jane to make ur laser look speccy! my original posts have been deleted, but my there point was, you are racing a heavy supercar around a track, you simply cant use what ur average car uses, rotas are just a glorified CSA, monza etc etc which just so happen to come in bigger sizes and offsets, they are targeted at a different market, but they are no different besides that. its one thing to put them on a street car, a low end drift or grip car (although i wouldnt recommend it), but to put them on a track GTR

the owner stated nothing lol no one ever said wheels dont break, putting 1 vid to a broken wheel with no info is useless