nisskid

also, if it was running lean, should i notice a raise in knock? there hasnt been a significant rise in knock.

if that was the case the car wouldnt the car struggle to start every time it's been sitting because the lines would be dry? it starts fine, it's generally after a bit of a drive it runs out of fuel. im starting to think it's a separate issue, maybe the powerFC is in a limp mode or something, i dont know, what could cause u to lose ur tune, or for the powerFC to go into a failsafe mode or something? another suggestion has been made that maybe it's the vacuum lines to the fuel regulator or something? causing issues with picking up the fuel? not sure, cant go check atm as it's snowing hard here. thats also another point i probably should have mentioned, the car has been driving around in cold weather for the last few weeks, as low as a few degrees below freezing.

pulled out the pump today, not sure what it is, has a nissan symbol on it which makes me think its stock (RB20 or RB26), but its been so long since i pulled mine out at home to replace with an 040 i cant remember what im looking at. numbers and details on the pump are as following: A42-621 B70 JECS 3217 pics:

if im honest, this is what i was thinking. ill have to put a rb20 side by side with a rb26 to suss what differences besides the big things (covers, plenum etc etc) i would need to change (and what wont be able to be changed), but if so it would be nice to have a rb20 lookalike sitting in the engine bay which is actually a 26/30. even if it has a big t78 i need to cover up on the roads with some "heat shielding" as simon mentioned, engineering is pretty f**ked here, and $1500 was roughly the figure i had in my head.

alright, another thread, starting to get old i know. but an issue has appeared. the issue started a few days ago, but ill start from the very start. the first time i drove the car i noticed that sometimes the fuel pump would get really loud, but be quiet other times, completely random too. the noise doesnt sound like ur normal average healthy fuel pump buzz either. anyway, last few days ive had big issues with running out of fuel really quickly, even before the fuel light comes on. the first time it ran out i put in like 20 litres and within about 40k's of driving it was empty again. when it runs out it runs out differently to what im used to as well, a consistent miss appears, until eventually breaking down and not starting, or idling rough. same story the 2nd time it ran out, 10 litres in, got me barely more than 10k's before it wouldnt start. i thought this was just a fuel leak, as there is both a burnt and unburnt fuel smell in the air, certainly last night when trying to start it there was a strong wiff of unburnt. now today i go to put some fuel in it, and the thing is just breaking down under load consistently, even with probably 20ltrs or more in. around 7% inj. duty it starts breaking down. one thing i noticed though, is i think my PowerFC reset overnight, i had a fair few people in the car and something may have happened, not sure. but all my monitor settings were reset etc. i cant think of anything else worth mentioning, maybe that the knock is still sitting at max of 13ish? also as far as the fuel system goes, apparently it has a adj fuel press regulator, and sard inj (unsure of size). fuel pump is unknown, but im thinking of pulling it out regardless and checking if it's stock, if it is i can pretty much be guaranteed it's the issue, but id still like to get opinions first as it isnt exactly easy to work on my car here. cheers

alright cheers man, reckon ill look into it, anyone want a T78? lol

if ur paying $800 for a that ur getting royally reamed, shouldnt be paying more than $600, around the $500 mark is about what id expect to pay.

who said it was?

my mate ended up buying a 32 with a RB26 as well (mainly because the r32 with Rb24 had a shocking shell), haha damn RB26's.

thanks mate, you've touched on a few points i was thinking too. i guess my worry is with engineering is that it's f**king expensive when u plan on doing the swap urself. i love the RB26 (although tbh the RB20 is my first love) and it interests me more than the RB30, my main worry is once the RB26 goes, it's big $$ time. and tbh, i have to ask myself would i be better getting the high $$ asking for RB26's and spend it elsewhere? the low mounts are a good idea, i was thinking about it the other day, but my worry is any signs of aftermarket turbos (they will check) and it's all over, that includes any new looking parts, braided lines etc etc. am i better off just having some stock turbos to swap over when its regency time.

lol, my car has always been about being only legal enough to get through regency. and by that, i mean if they cant tell it's illegal from an inspection, then it's legal. lol

i can pull them out.

dont worry about mine's ECU, useless in ur case. get a good stock ecu remap by someone who knows their way around nistune gear. where are u located?

Alright guys, get ready for some very likely noob questions, but i promise i have searched, just trying to wrap my head around the situation atm, right now i have 2 R32 GTS-t's, a 2dr with an RB26, with engine mods, and a 4dr with an RB20, no engine mods. Now ideally i'd like to put a big setup in the 4dr, but i'm trying to figure out which direction to go. i have been looking into RB30's for quite some time (always the R32 RB25DE head on RB30e block), but this new car with RB26 has thrown some possibilities in the mix. my main issue is keeping the car able to go through regency (inspection) with ease. changing turbos is fine, but changing engines each time for regency is too much. so what the engine i run must past regency, i dont mind bolting on/off a few bits though, just not whole engine blocks or heads. I guess my first idea was just keep the RB26 and put it into the 4dr without fiddling about. problem is having to engineer it, and from what i understand, just arent cutting it compared to the RB30's (as sad as i am to say it). RB30/25's however can look identical to RB20's, and with a restamping, will get through regency. but RB26 heads are better, and i have one now, with all the mods ready, including full turbo setup (T78). so if i could go a RB30/26, not only would it be easier having everything already, but better. i guess my first question is, is the extra performance really worth it from the RB26 head? i dont plan on pushing much more than 350rwkw to start with, but i love my revs, so the revability of the 26 head interests me, im just not sure if there's any point in a revvier head if the bottom end will have dramas with the revs first. My 2nd question is in regard to the visual side of things, ive read up on swapping valve and cam covers, but couldnt find any definitive answer. i want to put RB20 covers on a RB26 head. i know it sounds ridiculous, and with the plenum and other obvious differences, it will probably be useless for regency, but still useful for police. 3rd question is, can the RB26 exhaust manifolds be modified to suit a RB25DE head (if i chose that route)? i dont feel like parting out the turbo kit, would rather use it all. from what ive read it's just the bolt pattern. 4thly, i have an RB26 powerFC, from what i understand these can be used on RB20's, therefore i assume on a R32 RB25DE head. i believe the issue is with the RB20 running one AFM as opposed to 2 on the RB26, but as ill be running the T78 kit which runs 2x Z32 AFM's, this shouldnt be an issue right?

just a quick Q, i bought my car, but my mate is looking at buying an RB24, but we need to know if there is anyway to make sure it's RB24 and they arent ripping us. quick reply would be sick as the auction is ending soon.

yeh exactly, just not enough boost for the turbo, but my worry is if i give it the boost it needs, ill have a time bomb on my hands.

ahk will have a suss man, cheers

slight hesitation sometimes when it gets to around 6k, but generally pretty smooth. inj duty cycle averages around 75% before i back off, yet to see it break into the 80's

yeh but who knows what goes through the mind of Japs though haha

yeh definitely, unfortunately there is dick all in Nagano as far as car tuning goes so will have to wait for Osaka.

ahk cheers for the link, interesting.

ahk so are we talking all new kit to switch tables to HKS gear? i have the car here, have driven it etc, currently running about 0.8bar but that's mainly due to me having nfi how to get the EVC working lol the other problem is not knowing it's current tune, or model/condition of fuel pump. it's quiet most of the time, only occasionally making a buzz, certainly nothing like what i'd expect from something of a suitable size, the 040 in my 4dr at home is always buzzing in the background of a noticeable noise level.

honestly didnt think it would be that hard to decode roughly what power area i was aiming for lol i have it here in Japan, unfortunately i dont have the time or tools to do much snooping around on it for a few weeks til im in Osaka where i will have access to some decent shops. as i mentioned, i would prefer to keep with something that fits the current manifold to make it an easier job, i have nfi what will fit or not (whether it's a universal flange size that HKS shit will fit on etc), i just dont care enough about turbos to carry any knowledge about them haha

btw, mods: Trust T78-33D PowerFC w/Commander HKS EVC4 Trust Manifold Trust External Gate Tomei Type-R Poncam SARD Injectors Adjustable type fuel regulator HKS Pod Filters Z32 twin AFM's Trust Intercooler Trust Oil Cooler 3-Layer Copper Radiator Low temperature Thermostat Turbo Back Exhaust and before anyone asks, these are as detailed as they get for now, going off translated for sale ad.

ok so here's the deal, i bought a car in Japland, R32 GTS-t, has a BNR32 Rb26 in it, and according to auction sheet, a T78 turbo, assuming a 33D going by what they sell. Now internals are unknown, but seeing as nothing was listed, im assuming stock. My first question is, is there any possible reason i should keep the T78 if i dont plan on fully building the engine? it will be used mostly for drift, so heaps of power isnt really needed hugely, but also some time attack, so extra power would come in handy. My 2nd is, what kind of turbo from Greddy's lineup would be more suited to my goals of say a reliable 300rwkw, that would fit on the kit these come with (exh. manifold etc)? i'm not a low down torque hunter, so im not interested in chasing that 100rpm of less lag. i just want something that will provide usable power without having to change everything else around. cheers