nisskid

have some stockies here, measure 4x100, so wont fit silvia's, but fit heaps of other cars. 2 are alloys, 2 are steelies. AFAIK these are off a pulsar. here's their full specs: Size: 14x5.5 Offset: +45 PCD: 4x100 If you're not sure whether these will fit or not check this: http://www.carlsalter.com/wheel_fitments.html Tyres: the 2 alloys have 185/60 Bridgstone GRID's with 40-30% tread. the 2 steelies have 185/60's, one firestone firehawks with 60% tread, one bridgestone with 50% tread. Price: $80 ono pics:

bump, $1400 bare without tyres, $1800 with brand new tyres

alright sounds like ill leave it til after im back, cheers.

got some whiteline urethane subframe bushes (pineapples) out of my car that i dont need anymore. for anyone who doesn't know these tighten up ur rear end without making it harsh, awesome solution for street cars, reduces axle tramp and lets u align ur subframe for squat, neutral or anti-squat. according to the whiteline site, these will fit most nissans, S13/S14/S15 R32/R33/R34 GTS, GTR etc etc Ceffy, laurel etc etc even N14 pulsars it seems. Price: $80 Pics:

Hey guys, got here a complete diff assembly, not just the centre, everything u need including the half shafts, housing, centre and plug for ABS (works with non-ABS cars as well), i can also shim it to whatever size ud like if u are after something tighter for the track or drifting purposes. Is in good condition, i've run it in my car for the street, works fine, i used to swap this in for when my car was on the street, and have another diff for the track, only selling it as my car is focused on the track, and no longer need a diff for the street. Located in SA near Mitcham Price: $300 $350 shimmed to whatever size you'd like Pics: (moisture around the seal is gasket goo)

i can check tomorrow whether there is drive in 3rd, but cant do it now as its a straight through exhaust and would wake up the neighbourhood. but if i remember right it still had drive in 3rd, just sounded brutal as hell so i limped it back to the pits in 2nd, something has given way, i can hear it rattling around, but i dont know what. like i said it only jammed when i went to reverse, it drove the whole way from turn 8 to my garage without jamming once, which is probably 700 meters or so, it was only when i went to reverse i only got a few meters before it jammed, chucked it into 1st, drove about 10 meters and it jammed again. like i said, wasnt seizing.

yeh could be the go, 25 box is on the list regardless, but if i could get a few more days out of the 20 box id go for it lol

alright guys, im not much of an expert on gearboxes, so this may be obvious or not enough info but looking for a rough diagnosis as i would just pull apart the box and check myself, but im travelling soon and dont want to pull out the box unless there's any point to it, would rather wait til i get back before i deal with it, but if it's something easy enough id probably fix it before i went, just to make life easier for my old man to be able to move it. basically it happened on a hot day, was out at mallala competition in G1 (drift) and on the transition to one corner (drifting) i grabbed 3rd from 2nd and was just a lot of metal scraping and rattling. was still drive in 1st and 2nd, and pretty sure 3rd, trying to remember that part but not 100% on 3rd. then trying to reverse into the garage it jammed, went back to 1st, drove around a bit, then that jammed, not seized, it just didnt wanna go any further in that direction. before the incident i had some decent whine from the box whenever the clutch was disengaged (even in neutral), that was for a good few months before the incident, but on the day the whine seemed more than usual. now the rattling occurs at the same time, whenever the clutch is disengaged, even when idling in neutral, soon as the clutch is pushed in it goes away completely. im hoping scopot, but this is the first box this car's done so really not sure what to expect. any input would be great, cheers

i hate cheap quality shit, nothing to do with the price. i pay f**k all for my good quality wheels, less than what some low quality stuff sells for, even 2nd hand.

not in brisbane, u just need a generic kit that fits the OD of ur damper's body. maybe fulcrum?

thanks mate

ask to see them first, they will have all the info u need on the rims themselves. often sizes change, sometimes what's being manufactured and what's sitting in a warehouse somewhere in Aus can be different if one size has been discontinued etc sometimes whats on the site simply doesnt correspond to what's actually available. as long as they are definitely enkei's and the model u want, and they are stamped with the offset/size u are after then they should be fine.

u owned a onevia, any argument you mount is therefore flawed.

most tyre shops should have one that fits. the locator is a metal/plastic ring that takes up the gap between the larger centrebore of the wheel, and the smaller hub on the car.

id save ur money, buy a coilover kit for ur bilsteins ($300 or so) then some appropriate hyperco springs ($500) and enjoy on car height adjustment.

are ur bilsteins height adjustable? are u running stock springs atm?

thats a hard one, as 18x9 +20 would sit pretty nice and aggressive, but 18x10 +35 is a bit soft, and wont really suit the agressiveness of the front. u could go 18x9 +20 all round, but if u want to keep the staggered width, id be going the 18x10 +35 and correcting the camber to around -0.5, this will pull the top out, and give u more grip. from there id probably go extended wheel studs and some hubcentric slip on spacers to get the fitment perfect. the 10" +15 can be made to fit without a flare, but ull need camber and stretch, and by the sounds of things its more aggressive than what ur after.

lol you clearly said in ur next post that you "would have" (in reply to "you should have smoked them") if it weren't for you being next to a police station. what u did in the end was fine, u shouldnt have "smoked them" unless u were happy with lowering urself to their level.

im sorry, but who's the wanker? ur just as bad as them, by the sounds of things the only reason u didnt race because u thought it was a coppa.

i doubt nissan aus would turn away business because they are JDM GTR's, most of dealer's money is made in after sale support anyway.

yeh god forbid one of us starts insulting the other..

at a safe bet id say you could count slapper in for some man on man action.

if u cant figure this out there truly is no hope. you said flaming was a word in the repertoire of keyboard warrior terminology, you're the one that used the word, 1 + 1 = 2

there's nothing to defend, u just came in, called me bias, said i had an issue with rotas and left it at that. oh no! you got me, i hate cheap shit, i surrender to your flawless argument. what do u want me to argue? that i dont think cheap shit is cheap shit?