nisskid

the best advice i can give u is leave ur car as is for a while, enjoy it in it's current state, then figure out the direction you want to go with it down the track and go from there.

exactly, i dont mind when people know what they are buying is cheap and are unashamed by it, but when people say stuff like "genuine drift teks" it makes me die a little inside.

um, you're the one that used the word, you just called yourself a keyboard warrior. f**k i dont even need to launch a defense, you seem to be doing a good enough job of insulting urself.

jap auctions is ur friend, get searching lol

ur right, but thankfully majority of people arent like me, and the risk of me getting wheels that have been given a hard life like mine are low. maybe i've been lucky, but all my wheels have been quality 2nd hand wheels, and all of them have put up with a lot of abuse without fail, and i honestly cant think of one person i know who puts their wheels through more abuse. yet i see people with cheap wheels failing under much less stress. the problem i find is, people dont want to be told what they have bought is cheap low quality gear, even when they ask, ok it might be fine for ur application, but you have to accept that what you have is relatively low quality, and the key word is relative, compared to other wheels on the market. the fact that you can buy a wheel that is forged in a plant that has been practicing wheel manufacturing for decades and poured millions into R&D, and yours is a wheel that is casted in a unnamed plant in china/taiwan etc etc that's main focus is low cost production, means that in the scheme of things, your wheel is low quality, and that's a fact how ever u look at it.

if u dont mind waiting a bit to get exactly what u want, then use streeter, he is the cheapest broker around, he can use EMS (around a week) or shipping which is around a month i think. then u get to choose from anything on the jap auctions and get it for nothing.

you actually think that was flaming? wow u have nfi what flaming is do u?

sorry how was that flaming? i went into the snake pit of the R35 section where they are all mates, so naturally they are going to stick up for each other and look down at the peasant that owns a R32, the fact that i got some support in there is actually quite amazing.

jeez that's impressive, looks mint with the TE's too.

id go the GTR, i dont like 360's, but for those $$'s i wouldnt go either.

Alright guys, i imported these in from Japan a while back, but looking to move on. These are an Italian wheel made for GTR's, for anyone who's been living under a rock, OZ Racing are one of the biggest race wheel manufacturers. not many, if any other manufacturers match the racing credentials of OZ. they supply the wheels for racing across the world including WRC, F1, Le'mans. Anyway these wheels look the biz, suit pre-2000 cars mint, and they are an awesome performing wheel, extremely strong. Specs: 17x9 +24 5x114.3 brake clearance for 4-pot 32 brakes. Condition: no noticeable scratches, no bends/breaks or any structural damage. as far as tyres are concerned, this can be negotiated, right now they have eagle F1's on the front which are about half worn, and worn neutons at the rear, but can supply them with brand new tyres for you, or something 2nd hand for less. Fitment: these will fit a massive range of cars, all turbo skylines, S14/S15 silvias etc etc. these are designed to fit GTR's but sit real tough on GTS-t's and S14/S15's. Price: $1400 bare $1600 with 2nd hand tyres with around 80% tread. $1800 with brand new tyres (neutons, 235/45's or 215/45's) Located in SA, can post interstate, around $200 to vic/nsw, bit more to QLD/WA etc. here's a pic:

yeh, being able to go over a apex without breaking is massive overkill. haha flamed? where? all i saw was a few people trying to defend a wheel they bought. but we did have a good laugh about it.

more details on this thanks.

actually technically they are copies of URAS NS-01's, which are copies of Bee*R B5's but i wouldnt be surprised if B5's were "inspired" by LMGT4's anyway haha

since when did i say drift teks were faulty? i said they were low quality, they are manufactured cheap, creating low density metal that doesnt have the strength properties of a good quality wheel, this means to get even a safe amount of strength they need to add more metal, this adds weight and gives u a heavy wheel. so u get a heavier wheel, which isnt as strong, which just adds to the problem, as there is more mass to move, transferring more force into the metal, meaning they are more vulnerable to hits, coupled with the low strength means they just cant take impact like a good wheel. this is basic stuff, so u should be keeping up. my mate broke his drift teks on the corner 1 apex at mallala, went in too shallow and one corner caught the raised apex and got a nice impact to the wheel, enough to break it. my wheels (OZ racing) are the same size, same size tyre, same car (32 4dr) and same spring rate (6kg) have hit that apex time after time, sometimes getting air off it, i dont worry about it anymore as not once has it even hinted any damage to the wheel. in fact the only way i could even get the slightest amount of damage to my wheels was to blow a tyre, have it strip off the wheel to the side, and for me to head into a ditch sideways on bare rim at about 90k's, even then it was a barely visible flat spot in the out rim, doesnt even effect the balance or cause any vibration. oh btw, my rims are 17 years old as well.

and if i had a gold star, id be sure to award it to you. funnily enough a lot of people dont have issues with G4/D2 suspension, so i guess that means they are awesome and that everyone who has reported a failure is talking shit.

and this is what it comes down to, regardless of whether u care about quality, is there no shame in the import community that we have no issues buying products that are just shameless copies of quality manufacturers that spend the $$ creating original parts? companies creating original products and furthering development are dying around us from the flooding of cheap junk on the market, but then when we see any of the ill effects of this, u know who will be the first to complain.

and i guess i have to be a scatologist to know that the stuff that comes out my arse is shit. the guy asked about the weight of the wheel, i told him. i have weighed them, and have also seen them first hand fail with a bit of hard driving.

yes

i lold

which one? ive been ragging on rota and other cheap shit for years.

ur right, brand new quality wheels are best. but id take the very low risk that my 2nd hand wheels have been bent really bad before and repaired, and aren't very strong, then buy brand new cheap wheels and be guaranteed that they aren't very strong.

exactly, 2nd hand jap is amazingly cheap, especially through streeter, yet people still insist on buy cheap crap. i think its just laziness these days, no one seems to really give a shit enough about their cars to spend the time to actually search for some quality gear for cheap. another good example was my new model GT-P's, forged disk, spun rim, cost me $1250 or something delivered to my door in new condition with all volk valve and hub caps, thats less than drift teks i think. and they were high demand size and offset (17x9 +16)

yeh when i used to drift on 2nd handies id go through so many tyres, and it was crazy to see the difference in them every time id put a new one on, all different brands had different shapes and clearances mounted up.

stock suspension u have front toe adj, small amounts of rear camber adj, and rear toe adj (on HICAS models). his alignment is to shit, no wonder it's pulling, yes the camber and caster are out which cant be adjusted stock, but the toe is out too which could easily be adjusted out, but hasnt. which makes me think the aligner was a knob. generally ur caster and camber should be straight, up to half a degree out is alright and wont cause a lot of issues, but that kind of camber difference means something is f**ked, first thing to do if nothing else is obvious is try other suspension arms in, if ur getting the same result, something more serious is buggered, ur chassis could be bent, ur rad support could be pushed back, ur crossmember could be bent, UCA bracket, caster rod bracket etc etc. if you cant see a noticeable issue, ur simply going to have to replace the parts and hope, if u know what ur doing it's a pretty small job, if u can find a wrecking car, and grab a whole front corner setup (LCA, hubs, UCA and caster rods etc) it can be fairly cheap too king pin is a fairly big, only because it's part of the uprights assembly, but it's pretty ballsy and doesnt often fail, as much as pedders seem to say. tie rod ends go all the time, they can be had for around $10 or something and are easy as piss to change. UCA joint? not sure which one, there are a few, bushes sometimes go, but not a big problem. lower ball joint cover being split isnt the end of the world, dont worry about it.