nisskid

they are heavy and relatively weak. you get what you pay for, although seems cheap and nasty wheels are the flavour of the month here on SAU, even on performance orientated cars. i mean the show cars and "street cars" have always been filled with cheap copy shit, now it seems it's leaking into the performance cars. but hey, i bet bob jane do killer payment plans so it's all good.

mm, yeh it comes down to each car and tyre design it seems, when i ran 235/45's with he +30 on mine, i could feel maybe a 3mm gap between the tyre and UCA.

nice pics mate, helps demonstrate what i talk about with fouling on the rear with the hicas end.

yeh thats fine.

yeh front will be close to the UCA, bloody close, generally i say 235/45 with a +30 offset is the furthest in id go, 225/45 will protrude 5mm less in, and about 4mm lower, but u have 8mm more offset pulling the tyre in further. so it will definitely be close, and probably come down to the tyre model and individual car as to whether it actually scrubs or not, but nothing a spacer a few mm thick cant fix. my bet is that it will clear, but no guarantees on that one.

alright ive sent both, just sent the edited version as a tif so it's a bit big, but being a jpeg off the camera it's already been compressed once, didnt want to compress it again.

im not arguing, im just bringing up a question. but thanks for the concern.

not trynna fire u up again, but was there any strength test results? i mean ud hope they aren't flawed from the factory, but i guess that's something you have to worry about when you buy ROTAS. but for a GTR that see's test work id be worried about the general strength of the material. it's one thing to not have wheels that are flawed from the factory and dont fail within the first few times you use them, it's another to have wheels that simply cant handle the forces they are dealing with and fatigue over time.

problem with mine is it's not the original, has been through photoshop, doesnt have that shitty red car that was originally next to it, the original probably wouldnt be suitable as the red car kinda does ruin it. i have a high res version of the edited one tho, i guess its just whether it needs to be a true original to be in consideration?

nice skid out of turn 2 reverse.

fixed.

mismatched will be fine, especially if u have tough fitment. a lot of the yanks run mismatched for the same reasons, simply because it's easier to buy 2 2nd hand pairs at separate specs to suit you, than find a full set at perfect sepcs.

i actually think uve done pretty well lol pair the 18x9 +10 (i'd probably go around a +14) with a 215/40 and ur gravy

noobs are best cooked slowly tho, therein lies the dilemma.

i dont know why people crack jokes about the hardtuned name, i think it suits it perfectly, like a hardtuned SR, never reliable, always breaks, but when it does work, well even then its still pretty shit

you know what i love about SAU? it works.

the worst part is he knows the price of the badge.

fixed.

i found without assist the rack felt lazy, which is shocking for drift when u need a quick return. i found it better to have lighter steering that u can at least manually spin around quickly. each to their own, i do love good non-p/s racks, but in the skyline it just felt like shit without assist.

when u say camber kit, i hope u dont mean offset bushes?

or be a real man and just never go slow enough to activate the speed sensitive powersteering.

looks good, would look better with more camber and low, but wouldnt handle anywhere near as good.

front = decent amount rear = not a lot the strut brace holds not too far away from the upper link at the front, stopping this sideways distortion helps a lot, especially mid corner understeer. rear does f**k all as all ur links are connected to the subframe, which ur strut brace is no where near. u can add bracing to the subframe, which is the equivilent of a strut brace on the front, but ur talking about nowhere near the amount of flex.

lip to lip, or bead seat to bead seat?

wouldnt bother with KU36's with just skidpan, NEED heat badly. the only other real bang for buck tyre i can think of is the Direzza Z1 Star Spec, but once again, really does better with heat (not as bad as the KU36 tho)