nisskid

have some stockies here, measure 4x100, so wont fit silvia's, but fit heaps of other cars. 2 are alloys, 2 are steelies. here's their full specs: Size: 14x5.5 Offset: +45 PCD: 4x100 Tyres: the 2 alloys have 185/60 Bridgstone GRID's with 40-30% tread. the 2 steelies have 185/60's, with 50-60% tread. Price: $100 firm pics:

yeh u do, but doubt they will inspect it much, so ull probs get away with it sitting there.

205/55 is nice and common and will give u a snug fit. 195/50 with the car on it's balls would probably look better however.

^^PM sent

Hey guys, bought these wheels for my R32 Skyline and have decided to sell them. These are genuine Work Equips made in Japan, not the cheap starcorp impul crap sold locally made in china or somewhere. These are very lightweight and strong, unlike the boat anchors starcorp come up with. Specs: 4x Work Equip Wheels PCD: 5x114.3 (fit most Jap 5-stud cars, as well as Fords) 17x7 +35 215/45 tyres - 80% tread 17x8 +35 225/45 tyres - 80% tread Price: $700 or $900 with brand new tyres Located near Mitcham SA, can post interstate. Pics:

firstly, those profile's are too high, so im going to assume u mean 40 profiles and go on that. on the rear, yes, as long as u have standard camber arms, it will be tight, i cant guarantee no scrapage as every car is different, and suspension plays a big role. if u want to go as wide as possible there is work to be done, 9" and 10" can be fit under unflared guards, with 235/40 and 255/40 quite easily. front will be tight with the upper control arm, my guess is it will foul. once again every car is different, but if be going for a maximum of +30 offset. what exactly are u after? as if ur just after looks, then u could save urself a lot of hassle by just going a smaller tyre, if ur after performance then ur going to have to look into camber arms and reduce ur camber, then we will be starting from scratch, there's no point running really wide tyres to get straight line traction if ur running a lot of camber.

well, this ones slightly difficult, i ran a 9.5 +38 and i still consider it the widest possible setup without overlapping the rear hicas rod end, with standard camber arms, and standard guards. i ran a 255/45 on it and it just scrubbed a tiny bit. now few issues here, the 255/45 profile is too high really, ud be better off with a 255/40, this will help with scrubbage. as mentioned i was running standard camber arms, this gave me more clearance as i ran more camber than i do now (-2 then, -1 now), if ur after maximum grip u would be best running around -0.5 camber or so, which will pull the top of the tyre out and completely throw out ur fitment. then the final issue, and probably the most important is whether the design of the wheel fits over the hicas rod end. now just about all 17's dont, but some 18's do. there's no way to find out whether they will or not without trialling it out, each wheel uses a slightly different rim design. if it does fit over it means u can go a much higher offset which will allow u to go wider. i know it's not a comprehensive answer, but there's always a few factors that get u when ur aiming for tight wheel fitment.

easy as piss man, talk on msn.

with standard camber arms the rears will probably JUST scrub on standard guards depending on ur suspension, fronts will be fine. if u have camber correction on the rear ur rears will almost certainly scrub to an extent. a guard roll will stop that tho, no need for a flare or anything.

the big problem is they hate to be outsmarted, if they get backed into a corner where there clearly isnt one they will just get more angry and want to defect u more, so u gotta be careful about it lol i just showed them the standard recirc valve and said thats what the aftermarket stuff replaces.

lol what a joke, u fighting it?

id go a 215/45 and 235/45, 2 common sizes that are cheap, u could probably go a 235/45 up front but it will be quite close to the UCA with that offset.

there's a difference between trading a lot of items and being a business. maybe we should call every person who wrecks a car a trader due to the amount of stuff they sell. i dont know what mitch was called out for, but id be interested in knowing what it was.

i'll just put this here:

there's something wrong with u if u dont appreciate the noise of this:

not really saying much is it though? lol has to be the slowest cruise ive ever been on, but i still had fun, the viscous diff on corkscrew was a bit of a bummer, i think there were a lot of imports going up there feeling like commies haha

^^front bar doesnt look quite so nice anymore

why not just go to corkscrew?

there are measures taken like spacers in both the knuckle end, and the rack end, that counter the bump steer u get from lowering ur car. but u have to remember, unlike grip, drift isnt about numbers and a single goal, yes grip and ultimately speed is important, but gaining controllability and ability for angle sometimes overtakes small gains in grip to give a better overal result. btw rally have been modifying knuckles in a similar way for ever, this is nothing new, just diff geometry.

^^that sort of design is the way of the future in case anyone was wondering lol

pretty much yep, im still learning a lot about knuckles myself, but ill be doing a fair bit of experimentation with clearance as ill be trying to run 235/45's up front, which is basically unheard of there haha, that's 4x4 spec in their eyes.

Maserati MC12

cheers man, yeh mine doesnt have a compliance plate, so assuming by build plate that's just the ID plate on the firewall then that's probably all i have around there.

worn suspension worn bushes static toe dynamic toe