nisskid

honestly if u think stock suspension is harsh, u should sell ur car. it's not a lux car so it's not going to be plush, just about every aftermarket solution will cause a harsher ride.

should have known to keep my distance from SAU when dealing with legal matters, it's like going to a world of warcraft forum to get sex tips.

you dont know what i plan on doing, you're just making assumptions. i mean go for it, waste ur time, but dont pollute my thread with it.

get some pics up if u can, each car can vary a lot depending on alignment/suspension, tyre brand (some tyres protrude more than others, even if their tread width is the same)

cheers, what do u mean by build plate?

i think what gary's trying to say is that mazda have effectively done this, they have used these "specs" to market their engine against piston engines. pretty sure this is gary's beef with mazda more than anything.

i guess the problem is that rotor boys for ages have criticised piston engines for not revving as well, when in fact what we've learnt here is that to compare rpm between piston and rotors is completely useless. i understand and agree with most of what gary is saying, i think the problem here is we look too much at comparing the technical areas of 2 different machines that are only relevant to each type of machine. all we can do is look at the outputs in application really and compare that. the problem is that Mazda obviously tried to use these technical specs to market their engines over piston engines, which we now know was stupid to do so. so in that aspect, Mazda were deceiving.

depends on the permit, for some types yes. i dont really want to go into what exactly i have planned, i just want to know where they all are, it's not just a permit thing, that was more of a hypothetical example, even though it is a real possibility, its just handy to know for a number of reasons.

without offset it's impossible for me to tell u, also GTS or GTR? trying to fit a 265 under stock 32 gts guards is a fair task, ull need rolled guards as a minimum, but u might be able to get away without a flare depending on the offset. if it's already on the car, ur best bet is to simply look at it and see where it is scrubbing. personally id be dropping the suspension out and lifting the wheel up through the arc manually to see exactly where it's scrubbing, but the lazy way to do it is to find uneven ground, and try and get one side to compress up into the guard, park the car, get out and look where it's touching. either that or jack the car high, then drop one corner onto some bricks or something lol either that or chuck up some pics and ill try and go off them.

i've talked about spacers a lot on here, but basically what id say is they are safe if done right. that is decent size, loctite and kept hubcentric. firstly let's establish the basics, the only thing a spacer does is introduce another mechanical connection, it DOES NOT create any extra strain on the standard hub/studs. people mainly think spacers cause more strain on the standard hub because it creates more leverage, 2 points about this, 1: putting a spacer in there has no more effect on the standard hub then going a lower offset wheel (for instance putting a 25mm spacer on a +30 offset wheel is the same as going a +5 offset wheel). 2: if anything, ur reducing leverage in most cases as ur bringing the offset closer to 0 neutral (middle of the rim) a spacer is effectively the same as offset, the only difference is instead of the extra metal on the mounting surface being casted on when the wheel was created, it is being connected there with a mechanical connection. now that we have that part sorted, there are 3 factors are needed to create a safe connection. 1: the nuts maintain torque on the stud and dont loosen 2: the studs in the spacer have enough metal 3: the studs aren't subjected to much shear force in some circumstances the wheel nuts just come loose, and since they are behind the wheel, u cant just chuck a wheel brace on and tighten them up, so some loctite is important to make sure they dont loosen. then u have the issue of smaller bolt on spacers, a 15mm spacer will only have 15mm of alloy to hold the stud in, whereas a 25mm spacer will have 25mm of alloy to hold it in, so as counterintuitive as it sounds, the bigger the better (or safer) in a lot of cases. 3rdly when the wheel isnt kept hubcentric the studs are vulnerable to shear movement as the wheel isnt being centre securely and can move around. now the friction between the mounting surfaces stops most of this movement, but i wouldnt trust it alone to stop all of the movement, id rather have a mechanical connection stopping the movement. studs are weak to shear force as they are only designed for torsional force, so they can often fail if they are subject to the shear force. now all this (besides the 2nd point) is relevant for both bolt on and slip on spacers, slip on spacers however are a lot more vulnerable to shear force, so keeping them hubcentric is much more important.

yeh thats sick

if ur not gonna answer the question, dont bother. anyone who knows me and my car knows ive been through the defect/transport system enough times to have an idea what im doing.

as someone who loves the AIR track, id rather see it sold, repaired and continued to be used as a track.

Part are located near Mitcham in SA, can post interstate. Suspension/Steering R32: 2x Front Sway Bar - $50ea 1x Front Complete upper control arm assembly (passenger side) including bracket and king pin bearing, urethane bushing - $100 -- PICS PICS 2x Front Camber Arms - $40ea -- PICS 2x Front Passenger side Lower Control Arm - $60 -- PICS 1x Front Tie Rod End - $10 -- PICS 2x Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS 2x Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS 2x Rear Lower Control Arms - $60ea -- PICS 2x Rear sway bar links w/ Urethane bushes - $15ea -- PICS 2x Rear Hubs - $100ea -- PICS PICS 1x Rear Sway Bar - $50ea 2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $35ea -- PICS S13: 2x Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS 2x Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS 2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $35ea -- PICS Misc R32 1x Horn, can be hooked up to any car - $20 -- PICS 2x Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $30 and $70 1x Stock Rear Spoiler (with brake light) - $50 -- PICS 3x RB20 Coilpacks - $30ea 1x Turbo Timer, very basic timer, manual set - $20 1x RB20 Fuel Pump - $40 -- PICS 1x Igniter Module (breaks down under a lot of heat) - $30 -- PICS Random shit 1x Handbrake lever - $5 -- PICS 5x Hub Covers - $20 -- PICS

Part are located near Mitcham Suspension/Steering R32: 2x Front Sway Bar - $50ea 1x Front Complete upper control arm assembly (passenger side) including bracket and king pin bearing, urethane bushing - $100 -- PICS PICS 2x Front Camber Arms - $40ea -- PICS 2x Front Passenger side Lower Control Arm - $60 -- PICS 1x Front Tie Rod End - $10 -- PICS 2x Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS 2x Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS 2x Rear Lower Control Arms - $60ea -- PICS 2x Rear sway bar links w/ Urethane bushes - $15ea -- PICS 2x Rear Hubs - $100ea -- PICS PICS 1x Rear Sway Bar - $50ea 2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $35ea -- PICS S13: 2x Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS 2x Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS 2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $35ea -- PICS Misc R32 1x Horn, can be hooked up to any car - $20 -- PICS 2x Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $30 and $70 1x Stock Rear Spoiler (with brake light) - $50 -- PICS 3x RB20 Coilpacks - $30ea 1x Turbo Timer, very basic timer, manual set - $20 1x RB20 Fuel Pump - $40 -- PICS 1x Igniter Module (breaks down under a lot of heat) - $30 -- PICS Random shit 1x Handbrake lever - $5 -- PICS 5x Hub Covers - $20 -- PICS

they CAN if they really want to, cars have been defected on trailers as well as permits here in SA. i want to cover all bases.

at the top of this forum is a way to figure out, not a massive issue but if ur going low u want something hard, otherwise ull have scrubbage issues.

nope, assuming they have enough caliper clearance. what rates are the coils?

alright guys, im after a list of where u can find ID numbers on R32's. i found a pic for vins, but it seems to depend. basically i want any number that can be used to ID the car, so that if i was to drive the car on the road under a permit, there is no way to ID the car to defect it.

perfect for an aggressive fitment, no flare needed, just roll the guards and stretch the tyres, something around a 215 on the front, and a 225 or 235 on the rear. will be nice and tight, the suspension ur running will come into play however.

lift the car up and put softer springs in and replace shocks with more road orientated shocks if need be. doubt it's stock, if it is then sell ur car and buy a commodore.

not bad, RRP for kingies are about $150pr, they probably get them for around $100pr. either way thats not a bad price considering the labour involved.

will look like aids and possibly have clearance issues on the front.

looks tops dude, lower than front and will look the business.

they should.