nisskid

adjustable seats are about $150pr by memory.

you guys are getting ripped off haha height adjustment is not part of an alignment, u dont need an aligner to adjust height, u need a tape measurer. i get my alignment done every month or so and ive given them the worst of the worst alignments, like 30mm toe, -6 camber, traction rods completely in etc etc, it's never taken them more than half hour to get it within my specs. that's F&R toe, caster, rear camber, traction rods (not done with a bump steer meter, done of relative length). if ur getting it done with a bumpsteer gauge then even $300 is very optimistic, but we arent talking about that here.

this thread is fucking brilliant for so many reasons.

doesnt suprise me ur from adelaide. i wish these guys were in adelaide as id be making a killing off them damn adelaidians are too in-tune with their cars and do too much shit themselves haha

back when i used to pay for my alignments i cant think of one place that charged me more than $90 for a full alignment including F&R toe, caster and rear camber. but that's why u call up first or go there and get a quote, u dont just go somewhere blind and hope they will be cheap. if u just give someone ur business without getting them to sell u on it first they will rip u off as they havent needed to give u a good quote to get u there. u have to let them know they are a genuine option so they will take u seriously, but at the same time make them let them know that they have to give u a decent price to get u there.

ur suspension does settle from fresh off the hoist, so u have to drive it around the block, then measure it. sounds like the shop straight up rorted u. 8 hours to change shocks is a joke, so is $130 for a wheel alignment done properly on a aligner, most place over here charge around $80 for a 4 wheel alignment.

yeh will fit mint on most skylines, depending on the tyre size these will fit stock guards with just a roll.

i can have the centre powdercoated at any colour for an extra $150.

$400 for 1-2 hours? more like 5 hours. there's not a lot to go wrong when installing shocks, if they take longer than 2 hoursr they shouldnt be a mechanic. a good mechanic wouldnt take more than an hour.

will be fine

not the coilovers, but will come close to the hicas tie rod ends, 18's should clear, but depends on the barrel design.

PM's replied.

Alright guys, i imported these in from Japan a while back, but looking to move on. These are an Italian wheel made for GTR's, for anyone who's been living under a rock, OZ Racing are one of the biggest race wheel manufacturers. not many, if any other manufacturers match the racing credentials of OZ. they supply the wheels for racing across the world including WRC, F1, Le'mans. Anyway these wheels look the biz, suit pre-2000 cars mint, and they are an awesome performing wheel, extremely strong. Specs: 17x9 +24 5x114.3 brake clearance for 4-pot 32 brakes. Condition: no noticeable scratches, no bends/breaks or any structural damage. as far as tyres are concerned, this can be negotiated, right now they have eagle F1's on the front which are about half worn, and worn neutons at the rear, but can supply them with brand new tyres for you, or something 2nd hand for less. Fitment: these will fit a massive range of cars, all turbo skylines, S14/S15 silvias etc etc. these are designed to fit GTR's but sit real tough on GTS-t's and S14/S15's. Price: $1600 with 2nd hand tyres with around 80% tread. $1900 with brand new tyres (neutons, 235/45's or 215/45's) Located in SA, can post interstate, around $200 to vic/nsw, bit more to QLD/WA etc. here's a pic:

id say a big part of the problem is ur paying someone to put shocks in ur car.

17x10 +18 would be my pick for a R33 GTR. 9" +35 is too thin and offset is too high, +18 is a bit better than standard, but if u were going to have a 17x9 id stick with stock R33 GTR rims as they are better quality than the enkeis. 17x9.5 +38 is too high offset, +18 would work, but honestly if i was going to spend the $$ id do it right first time and go 10" wide. gives u more options.

lowering will give u extra dynamic camber, so as u lower ur car the top of the tyre does tuck in a bit. hence why when ur car is off the ground, the tyre sits right out of the guard, then when u drop the car back down it settles in.

Alright guys, i've got some OZ Racing Wheels for sale, i imported these in from Japan a while back, but looking to move on. These are an Italian wheel made for GTR's, for anyone who's been living under a rock, OZ Racing are one of the biggest race wheel manufacturers. not many, if any other manufacturers match the racing credentials of OZ. they supply the wheels for racing across the world including WRC, F1, Le'mans. Anyway these wheels look the biz, suit pre-2000 cars mint, and they are an awesome performing wheel, extremely strong. Specs: OZ Racing Wheels 17x9 +24 5x114.3 brake clearance for 4-pot 32 brakes. Condition: no noticeable scratches, no bends/breaks or any structural damage. as far as tyres are concerned, this can be negotiated, right now they have eagle F1's on the front which are about half worn, and worn neutons at the rear, but can supply them with brand new tyres for you, or something 2nd hand for less. Fitment: these will fit a massive range of cars, all turbo skylines, S14/S15 silvias etc etc. these are designed to fit GTR's but sit real tough on GTS-t's and S14/S15's. Price: $1600 with 2nd hand tyres with around 80% tread. $1900 with brand new tyres (neutons, 235/45's or 215/45's) Located in SA, can post interstate, around $200 to vic/nsw, bit more to QLD/WA etc. here's a pic:

answer

is it a scrubbing issue? also what size tyre. there is really only one way to "pull" a tyre in, and that's to add camber. unfortunately at the rear once uve lowered ur 32 even a little bit the dynamic camber gives u way too much camber on the rear for the street, so adding more camber will just make ur car perform even worse. if there are scrubbage issues, roll ur guards (assuming u havnt already as 9" +35 shouldnt be scrubbing, unless ur running maybe a 255/45).

Alright guys, the 32 is going into retirement for a few months after the last round of G1 this year, so opening up my stockpile of drift tyres that i usually use to drift on as i wont need them for a while, and would rather clear up some space. as well as the rest of the tyres i've got lying around. Located in SA near mitcham. ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS (unless otherwise noted) 15" 2x 195/50 - Toyo Proxes4 - 70-80% tread - $100 16" 2x 195/50 - Yokohama Advan/Avid (mismatched pair) - 80% tread - $80 3x 205/55 - Continental SportContact - 60% tread - $30ea / $60pr 2x 205/55 - Nexen CP641 - 90% tread - $130 2x 205/55 - Bridgestone Turanza ER30 - 60-70% tread - $70 2x 225/50 - Bridgestone Potenza RE001 Adrenaline - 70% tread - $170 2x 245/50 - Bridgestone Potenza RE-01 - 95% tread - $220 17" 2x 225/45 - Continental SportContact II - 90% tread - $160 2x 225/45 - Michelin Pilot Preceda - 50-60% tread - $70 4x 225/45 - Misc Single Tyres - 50-80% - PM me for price and what ur after 2x 235/45 - Pirelli Dragon - 50-60% tread - $80 2x 235/45 - Traxion Teck One - 60% tread - $70 6x 235/45 - Misc Single Tyres - 50-80% - PM me for price and what ur after 2x 245/40 - Continental SportContact II - 50-60% tread - $80 18" 2x 235/40 - Bridgestone/Corsa (mismatched pair) - 60-80% tread - $100 2x 245/40 - Dunlop/Maxxis (mismatched pair) - 70-80% tread - $110 2x 245/40 - Dunlop SP Sport 9000 - 80-90% tread (slight wear on one shoulder) - $150 Pics: 15" Toyos: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/DSCN3445.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/DSCN3445.jpg 16" 195 Yokos: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_9580.jpg 205 Contis: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/DSCN3435.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/DSCN3436.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nisskid/DSCN3437.jpg Nexens: http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3465.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3467.jpg Adrenalines: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_0535.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_0534.jpg RE-01's: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_5150.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_5151.jpg 17" 225 contis: http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3455.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3456.jpg Pilots: http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3468.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3469.jpg 225 singles: http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3482.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3483.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3484.jpg dragons: http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3470.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3471.jpg traxions: http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3462.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3464.jpg 235 singles: http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3476.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3477.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3479.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3480.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3481.jpg 245 contis: http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3455.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3456.jpg 18" Potenza/Corsa's: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_0839.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_0840.jpg 245 dunlop 9000's: http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3459.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3461.jpg 245 maxxis/dunlops: http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3474.jpg http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc89/in...ms/DSCN3475.jpg

tyres, fuel, and track rental.

yeh 215 on the rear, or 205 if ur not too fussed about traction back there, then as much camber as u need to slide it under. u obviously dont want too much if ur still after traction, massaging the guards just a little bit might be a better solution. for the front just camber the f**k out of it, R33 LCA's will help, but they tend to push the bottom out more than pull the top in to give u camber. for maximum clearance from camber ur better off with some adjustable upper arms and shorten them, something around -3.5 should do it id imagine, but just keep going til it fits in. front guards are easy as piss to pull out a bit if u need a bit more clearance.

yeh just ur guards dirty when u put them into a mountain.

yeh as mentioned that doesnt give u adjustment in ur springs, only changing springs changes the spring rate. damper adjustment is more complex than what it seems, ur better off adjusting ur sway bars as that will give more predictable results.

ur gonna adjust spring rate before ARB's? u realise springs are at least $100ea, whereas adjusting sway bars is free right?