nisskid

ebay stuff is junk, spend the $$ and talk to Andrew from AM performance, best shit in Aus.

get a new one.

stock/aftermarket?

it's hard to know man, as sometimes things take direct hits depending on exactly how it hit. personlly id be changing the LCA, then getting it back on a aligner. the toe has probably been knocked out, so if it is able to be aligned back to a decent spec, then i wouldnt worry about looking at anything else unless there is a noticeable problem. the only thing is a static alignment wont pick up any issues with dynamic alignment, if something is bent it might only have a minor effect on ur static alignment, but make a big difference when ur suspension goes up and down. ur toe being knocked out of alignment, more specifically if that side was knocked to give a lot of toe in, that could explain the knocking on the castor rod, because that wheel starts with some steering angle when ur rack is neutral, on full lock one way u will receive more steering angle than usual. steering angle on a R32 fouls on both chassis rails and caster rods. but the LCA's are the most vulnerable parts in there, and are usually the first thing that goes from such an impact. but also caster rods and caster rod bracket bend/break fairly easy too and worth looking at. UCA's are pretty strong and generally dont bend too easily. btw i have some R32 LCA's for sale if u want lol

i wouldnt.

lol no

yes more scrubbing, but id be worrying about chassis rails first. apparently when modifying ur knuckles, when going lower ackerman the scrubbing turns to ur caster rods.

they are Club Linea wheels fyi

haha its already cracked when i had it bolted down and took out a few tyre stacks at 80k's, taking the impact was fine but cos it was bolted on it tore it away, nothing a few cable ties couldnt fix haha. going to get it all plastic welded up soon.

stolen from ns, nice and simple:

read what we've said and the links that have been posted. without knowing the wheel width it is impossible to tell u. either go to a tyre shop and pay them to do it all for you, or spend your time educating urself so u know what to do.

u could, but i wouldnt reccomend it. 45% of 255 is too large sidewall height for 17's with our cars. a 40 profile would be better. as far as wifth, it's impossible to tell you without knowing the width of your wheel. read this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wh...de-t216654.html and this: http://www.1010tires.com/tech.asp?type=tires_general#sizing

same, i just reported an old lady for not indicating when changing lanes. good damn hooligans.

if it's going to see corners id go with a 255 tops.

it's pretty much the same mentality yeh. yeh im saying if you use the term coilover to describe ur typical aftermarket coilover package, the definition then becomes hazy. if you use it how it's intended (coil over damper config) then it's simple, if you want to describe aftermarket stuff, just call it aftermarket.

this.

it's a good habbit to get into to talk about stock as being coilovers. i had the most dumb argument with a regency inspector when they were going over my car, after me trying to explain what was in there, he asked "so do they have coilover in it?", i said yes, he said "well coilovers are illegal", i went on to tell him that coilovers weren't illegal and that they came stock with coilovers, it's the adjustment that is illegal. for the record i had bilsteins in with 2.5" ID Eibachs, and fixed unadjustable seats. because the line of what defines a coilovers becomes hazey. if i put bilstein shocks and king springs in does that mean i have coilovers? what if i add an adjustable lower seat that gives height adjustment? at what point do they stop being a shock and spring combo and become a coilover?

yeh, i should note however i had extra lock due to the tabs on my LCA's being dented in a good 4mm from hitting the lock stops drifting over time. i keep forgetting about that haha. when i put R33 LCA's in with undented tabs, they gave me a few cm of clearance from the rails. but they did pull the wheel out a bit due to being longer. and it was very minor scrubbing, in fact i didnt even notice it drifting on full lock, it was only when doing a u-turn or something at full lock on uneven ground (up a curb or something) it was just touching the rails.

praccy this sat, but next comp is 7th of November (G1 Extreme Drift) mallala.com

or if uve got a socket set with a socket wrench, chuck a pole over the end of the handle and give it some leverage that way.

leverage.

Part are located near Mitcham in SA, can post anywhere in Aus at buyers expense. Suspension/Steering R32: 2x Front Sway Bar - $50ea 1x Front Complete upper control arm assembly (passenger side) including bracket and king pin bearing, urethane bushing - $100 -- PICS PICS 2x Front Camber Arms - $40ea -- PICS 2x Front Lower Control Arms - $60ea -- PICS 1x Front Tie Rod End - $10 -- PICS 2x Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS 2x Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS 2x Rear Lower Control Arms - $60ea -- PICS 2x Rear sway bar links w/ Urethane bushes - $15ea -- PICS 2x Rear Hubs - $100ea -- PICS PICS 1x Rear Sway Bar - $50ea 2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $35ea -- PICS S13: 2x Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS 2x Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS 2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $35ea -- PICS Misc R32 1x Horn, can be hooked up to any car - $20 -- PICS 2x Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $30 and $70 1x Stock Rear Spoiler (with brake light) - $50 -- PICS 3x RB20 Coilpacks - $30ea 1x Turbo Timer, very basic timer, manual set - $20 1x RB20 Fuel Pump - $40 -- PICS 1x Igniter Module (breaks down under a lot of heat) - $30 -- PICS Random shit 1x Handbrake lever - $5 -- PICS 5x Hub Covers - $20 -- PICS 1x BBS Hub Cover Spanner - $10 -- PICS

f**k they will look mint, love CE's