nisskid

rarely does one thing make a car look bad. ive seen the japs pull of just about every mod thinkable with style. simply by incorporating it in the whole style of the car. most australians lack this ability, we find mods we think are pretty, and we stick them on our car, not thinking about their place in the style of the whole car.

f**k i love this thing:

sorry but how do u know it's 3rd/4th hand? both the bent spokes one and the fire hydrant one were first hand afaik, id find the threads but i cbf. unfortunately some of the threads from the original posters of the real bad examples are deleted (dead links)

pm sent mate.

Part are located near Mitcham Suspension/Steering R32: 2x Front Sway Bar - $50ea 2x Front Camber Arms - $120pr -- PICS 2x Front Lower Control Arms - $150pr -- PICS 1x Front Tie Rod End - $10 -- PICS 2x Rear Lower Control Arms - $130pr -- PICS 2x Rear sway bar links w/ Urethane bushes - $30 -- PICS 2x Rear Hubs - $200pr -- PICS 1x Rear Sway Bar - $50 2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $100pr -- PICS S13: 2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $100pr -- PICS Misc R32 1x Horn, can be hooked up to any car - $30 -- PICS 2x Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $50 and $100 1x Stock Rear Spoiler (with brake light) - $50 -- PICS 3x RB20 Coilpacks - $30ea 1x Turbo Timer, very basic timer, manual set - $20 1x RB20 Fuel Pump - $50 -- PICS 1x Igniter Module (breaks down under a lot of heat) - $30 -- PICS 1x Engine mount - $10 -- PICS Random shit 1x Handbrake lever - $5 -- PICS 5x Hub Covers - $20 -- PICS 1x BBS Hub Cover Spanner - $10 -- PICS

Part are located near Mitcham in SA, can post anywhere in Aus at buyers expense. Suspension/Steering R32: 2x Front Sway Bar - $50ea 2x Front Camber Arms - $120pr -- PICS 2x Front Lower Control Arms - $150pr -- PICS 1x Front Tie Rod End - $10 -- PICS 2x Rear Lower Control Arms - $130pr -- PICS 2x Rear sway bar links w/ Urethane bushes - $30 -- PICS 2x Rear Hubs - $200pr -- PICS 1x Rear Sway Bar - $50 2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $100pr -- PICS S13: 2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $100pr -- PICS Misc R32 1x Horn, can be hooked up to any car - $30 -- PICS 2x Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $50 and $100 1x Stock Rear Spoiler (with brake light) - $50 -- PICS 3x RB20 Coilpacks - $30ea 1x Turbo Timer, very basic timer, manual set - $20 1x RB20 Fuel Pump - $50 -- PICS 1x Igniter Module (breaks down under a lot of heat) - $30 -- PICS 1x Engine mount - $10 -- PICS Random shit 1x Handbrake lever - $5 -- PICS 5x Hub Covers - $20 -- PICS 1x BBS Hub Cover Spanner - $10 -- PICS

this stuff sold: 1x HICAS lock bar - $80 1x Turbo Elbow - $30 1x Airbox including snorkel - $30

when u say undersized tyres what do u mean? tyre size is one of the most important parts to wheel fitment so it's kind of hard to tell u without knowing that. it also depends on how good the flare is (assuming thats what u meant by pumped and ur not talking about overfenders etc). each flare is different and gives a different amount of clearance, regardless of how far it pokes at the furthest point. a lot of R32's have an issue with the wheel sitting further back in the rear guard, so even with decent flares they find the tyre starts fouling on the rear of the guard quickly. saying that, 18x10 +22 should slide under fairly easy with a smaller tyre and a decent flare, few people are running 10" +20 on rolled 32 guards and a 235-225 tyre with a decent amount of camber.

look, chances are u wont have a problem, but it's not like ur trying out cheap knock-off guages or something, if they fail they fail, you buy some new ones. your wheels fail and you can run into some serious shit. btw, cheap wheel failure is a lot more common than reported, firstly because a lot of the time they go on street cars that dont cop a lot of abuse straight away, the wheels arent targetted at people involved in motorsport so most of their customers are street drivers who give their car the biggest work out on a saturday night driving through the city revving their engines. 2ndly most people who do use these for motorsport consider these wheels consumables. some people take the attitude that it's more cost effective to replace cheap wheels constantly, than replacing expensive wheels occasionally. 3rdly and probably most commonly because often it's after the wheel has been sold 2nd hand that it fails, so they have to retailer to go back to. and just so we are aware, hitting stuff doesnt automatically = wheel failure. i have hit the curb on the inside of turn 1 at mallala more times than i can remember at probably 80+k's sideways, hard enough that im getting air off it. not to mention constant ripple strip love (sideways), constant dirt dropping sidways, hell even caught the edge of the ripple strip sideways pinching the tyre on the edge and ripping out my subframe. only a few weeks ago i went off the track sideways through a bunch of tyres at about 80k's, direct hits to both wheels on that side, as well as the wheels catching in the dirt and throwing the car up on 2 wheels. oh yeh and there was that time when i popped a tyre mid corner drifting, it came off the bead and then i drifted through the ditch on the transition between turn 1 and 2 at lala directly onto bare rim (the ditch is big enough to make some cars get air when they come out of it). they also took a direct hit into a metal guard rail at 50k's an hour. and that's only my current rims, i could go on all day with different impacts they have to put up with like the brutal curb on the transition between 8 and 9 at mallala, and the stuff my other wheels have had to deal with, but i cbf. they have survived every hit fine. not only have they not failed, they havent even bent or buckled. for reference a mate broke his drift teks first time he hit a curb at mallala. for the record my current rims cost me $600 on my door from japan. and btw i dont have the stories for all those pics of ROTA's, but i know at least a few are purely from hard cornering. in fairness ROTA apparently have a great customer service and are quick to replace shit, at least in the states. they blame all the failures on "bad batches". but honestly, at the risk of ur car falling the pieces onto the track at high speeds, id want more than a replacement.

NA RB Engines are pretty quick, they reach high RPM, it's the torque to make the car quick they lack

Located in SA near mitcham. ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS 16" 2x 195/45 - Dunlop SP Sport 9000 - 60% tread - $60 2x 195/50 - Yokohama Advan/Avid (mismatched pair) - 80% tread - $80 2x 215/55 - Goodyear Eagle NCT 5 - 90% tread - $140 2x 225/50 - Maxxis MA-V1 - 95% tread - $150 2x 225/50 - Bridgestone RE001 Adrennaline - 70% tread - $170 2x 245/50 - Bridgestone RE-01 - 95% tread - $220 17" 2x 225/45 - Bridgestone RE070 - 20-30% tread - $30 or 2x 6pks of beer 18" 2x 215/40 - Kuhmo Ecsta - 70% tread - $120 Pics: 16" 195 Dunlops: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_7652.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis.../100_7653-1.jpg 195 Yokos: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_9580.jpg Goodyears: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_8481.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_8478.jpg Maxxis's: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_9565.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_9567.jpg Adrenalines: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_0534.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_0535.jpg RE-01's: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_5150.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis...ts/100_5151.jpg 18" Kuhmos: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis.../100_0537-1.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j121/nis.../100_0538-1.jpg

needs more low

defect shmefect

Before: After:

id say it would be similar, most cheap manufacturers (well, manufacturers that these companies outsource too) use the same low pressure casting to keep costs low, so u can only expect so much strength from the metal that comes out. they either use a lot more metal to make them strong, which in turn makes them heavy, or they use just enough metal to pass JWL, VIA etc to keep weight down, but ultimately create a wheel that isnt designed be used for anything but driving around day to day on the streets. a lot of people swear by drift teks and lenso's too, but once again plenty of examples of them failing under mild stress, albeit not as many horror stories as ROTA and with drift teks and lenso's i have seen a few break personally, not on my car of course, they wouldnt last a practice day the way my wheels get abused not as many people run ROTA's over here compared to the US, so most of the examples are over there, so the internet is the best we can get.

why would i have first hand experience? i dont spend my money on cheap copy junk wheels, regardless of if they have a good reputation or not. id rather spend less on used wheels that are the genuine article that can take some abuse, spending over $1000 on cheap copy wheels just blows my mind when they are so many good used wheels on the market. once again, it's not my car, i have nothing to gain out of arguing against rotas, take what ive said how u want.

u forget nismoid, one of the biggest issues with cheap manufacturing is quality control, ROTA have had to recall quite a few wheels in the past simply because they have been found to be death traps. some rotas are time bombs, some arent, none are properly "strong". so even if u get lucky and get a rota which will hold up when everything is going ok, it still wont take even close to the same punishment as a better quality wheel. the thing is, when u hit a gutter, u break it in a certain way, usually it's a nice bend or buckle in the barrel, if its hard enough u rip ur barrel in half, because that's what hits the gutter. i have never seen this kind of damage as a result of sliding into a gutter: this was caused by hard cornering at Infineon Raceway now what a few laps with 500hp turbo EK4 Civic can do to them: BEFORE: AFTER: Front one and rear one side by side, note the bulge in the close one. btw this isnt part of any argument, i just thought this rota pic was interesting, just doesnt look like any other break ive seen before, looks like its made out of plastic: and we haven't even got to the point about them being cocks who blatantly just steal other manufacturers designs, copy them, replicate them cheaply and make $$ off them. but honestly, i dont care, it's ur car, i've done my bit to make people aware. if people choose to ignore it then so be it, im not going to sit here and argue something for the sake of helping them. plenty of people use rotas without dramas, but do u want to risk being one of those who arent so lucky?

lol, so we're going to take one single example to prove a whole point, but discard many others that prove the opposite? simple fact with wheels is that not all will explode, a lot will take a decent beating (relatively speaking), even the low quality ones. look at drift teks and many other cheap wheels, some take years of beating on the track on some cars, yet there are just as many examples of them cracking and breaking without severe abuse on others. you take a chance when you buy cheap shit, it might work it might not, but when that part is what keeps you above the tarmac, im not one to be taking chances. Rota have a disgraceful reputation for failure, that's a fact.

In Soviet Russia, Automobile drifts YOU!!

andthing from 6/4kg will work with good thick sway bars and dampers valved to suit on street tyres. beyond that it will come down to personal preference, whether u really feel like u need more roll control or not. no one can tell u exactly what will work and what wont, drift is so subjective every car needs to be setup differently for each person.

ROTA's are copies. there's a great pic of a before and after of some rotas after some track work, they litterally go from straight spokes to spiral shaped spokes not from any impact(obviously), simply from heat and stress they deformed.

luv the laurel, looks the biz out at lala

lowering was easy, it was the getting rid of a whole car and frabricating a new background that was a bit of a task haha

mm just did a photochop on mine to get the bloody red car out of the pic, also lowered it to where it is now, its a shame it wasnt this low back when the car was clean before: after

yeh that's what im thinking too.