nisskid

i'm thinking the same, i have them sitting there, and although i've had a few bites i think i'd rather just chuck them in for now and see what they do, worst comes to worse i can rip them out later. although at the same time tempted to just sit back and watch you put them in first haha

i've just asked him, will see what i get back and post here.

i assume so if they have the old data on hand, anthony does all the tuning down at Jaustech. from the owner: "Before I put the tomei poncams an tomei gears in I was already running a z32, Walbro 500hp intank, gtr injectors, nistune, hypergear atr43ss1, blitz highflowed 3inch turbo back zorst, fmic. That's almost everything I can think of atm. Results really depend on how big the cams are, these drop in and are built to respond in the mid range more than bigger cams. Big cams will be sluggish but have lots of topend so not real good for a streeter. These would be as big as I'd go, you want response for a quick car and this is a good example! Just went through adleaide hills last night, very quick!" it doesn't tell you much, but that was in response to me asking if anything else had been done between dyno's.

just had this come up on facebook, poncams and apparently played with pulley settings netted this:

Hey guys have a few 2 way KAAZ diffs here, both have the same 4.36 ratio centres with S13/R32 housings, but 1 comes in a housing with 5 bolts half shafts, and the other comes in a housing with 6 bolt half shafts. chasing $750 located near mitcham in SA, can post anywhere in Aus.

yeh you would have had a similar powerband to me and kris as you ran it all the way to 8krpm.

holy shit that's laggy

yeh mate, will be grabbing one very soon, have a bunch of little goodies to go on from the cars im parting out. still haven't decided with ebc to go with, the blitz duel-sbc or the trust profec, thinking i might try all 3 different types i have on the dyno and see where it gets me.

fair's fair, kris was running the cams, exhaust manifold with external wastegate etc, mine still ran stock manifold, cams, internally wastegated and i was running a basic t-piece boost controller. fairly different setups, but yeh hoping for similar if not better results with a similar setup + e85 yeh mate, engine is together, not looking to do anything too extensive on this one, next engine yes, but put this engine back together only a year or so ago, so not gonna pull it apart atm. i have a hks mainfold sitting there, so might just wack that setup on, leave the cams for now, and see how that goes.

only thing was, he did plenum and cams at the same time didn't he? the question is how much was the plenum, how much was the cams. talking to decs from garage 7 he has a lot of faith in the standard manifold, makes me wonder if that whole drop was to do with the aftermarket plenum.

thanks mate, yeh seems there's such a disagreement with what will benefit the rb20. this is my current setup, a 25/35 with standard everything: and here's kris's td06 setup with hks cams both have a huge drop in torque near each other, around 6000rpm, would love to get rid of this and run the engine up to 7500 and make steady torque at least past 7000. i honestly probably wouldn't bother with any porting on this engine, i'm not sure how much life it has left, so mainly looking at bolt on solutions. the next engine i'm going with is a whole different story, but this is an inbetween atm.

hey guys, a lot of reading down, but not a lot of definitive answers. will be going a td06 20g setup soon on my rb20, and wondering if i should bother touching the head or not. Being a drift car it spends almost all it's time above 4000rpm, with a limiter around 7500, possibly a bit higher. Drive-ability below 3.5-4k rpm is almost irrelevant, a strong power band from around 4-4.5krpm to 7.5krpm is what i'm after. I'm happy to go aggressive cams if need be, but if there are only very small gains in going a lift which requires new springs, then i can't be arsed going that path. i have some poncams sitting in an rb25 i have laying around, which i was thinking of nicking for the 20, but i know they are still considered mildish, wondering if it's worth going something more aggressive or not. Also wouldn't mind people's thoughts on adjustable gears, although i think i've read enough on that topic from your average joe blow, would like to hear from someone who deals with them on a day to day basis tuning with them. cheers guys!

we'll have to agree to disagree, if i had a time attack car where i found the optimal setting was -6 degrees camber, i'd happily run that on the street, even if some people thought it looked silly, at the end of the day, what's a little tyre wear on the street compared to improved lap times out on the track?

sorry, i'm sorry, but i think you've got your wires crossed, generally what limits negative camber, is braking, not lateral grip. for example v8 supercars run -5.5 camber, if this falls within your definition of sensible camber, then mine must almost fall under the same category. only a few years back a few teams were experimenting with -7, but had issues with braking, generally anything after -6 your braking performance begins to fall off, up to that you're generally only helping your times by increasing lateral grip, obviously there are other factors to consider, different tyres and suspension types, but i'm not going to get into that. drifting we require front grip, however our geometry is flipped on itself as we carry through a corner with opposite lock, and due to the amounts of steering angle compared to that of a car under grip conditions, the static camber has less of an effect due to the caster angle and SAI's effect on dynamic camber, and the fact that static camber has less and less of an effect the more steering angle there is. 2ndly, not sure how a car being driven on the street automatically leads to the assumption that it never gets driven on the track :S

there's not heaps to it, i bought it in 2010, with just coilovers and a mechanical diff, and performance wise it hasn't really changed as the car is a work horse, it not only drifts, it also has seen a lot of road trips across japan, and at near on $1.80-1.90 a litre over there, it's gotta be fuel efficient haha. i have drifted the car in a few competitions, a whole lot more events, and the stock rb20 does a great job. the body work was done last year, and it now runs modified knuckles up front a long with cut and shut lca's for additional clearance and camber. the wheels are 15x9 -45 and 15x8 -40 with 195/50's all round, it's designed to look good, but it doesn't get princessed around, it gets thrashed pretty hard and has the scars to show for it.

it isn't demon camber which is a cosmetic statement, it's a decent amount of camber for a drift car which uses the setting for practical reasons.

i aint no magician dude lol it's a 180 lip i cut up, does the trick haha.

hey mate, i got this with my rb20 which just runs stock everything except fuel mods etc. really depends what boost your running, but i was getting 18psi by 4500. this 20 was limited to 7000rpm for some reason though, you can run them to 7500-8000, so a pretty healthy power band of around 3500 at full boost/torque.

Hey i have 2x HKS 25/35 turbo's for sale, these are an awesome turbo to suit both RB20's and RB25's to make around 250-260rwkw, also have a HKS 25/40 for up near the 300rwkw mark, they are all direct bolt ons, with awesome response, maintaining the low mount position, great for cops!! Asking $1100 for the 25/35 and $1200 for the 25/40, including all the lines and elbow to make it fit on directly to RB's. Also have a T04E with a .50 comp, .82 turbine, high mount turbo with t3 flange - $800 all are in great nick with minimal play! Located near mitcham in SA, can post anywhere in Aus.

i lived in japan for a while, got a residency card which allowed me to rego cars in my name, and lived in a town where you could rego cars without a parking permit (very rare). this is my street car in japan, however it also gets drifted on the track/street. i don't live over there any more, but i do go back and forth, this car gets stored at either ebisu or down in osaka depending on where i end up at the end of my trip.

it's not much more than your average touring car really, it's just you can see it as the wheels don't sit far inside the guards, and unlike open wheel cars you have a body to line them up with so you notice the tilt more. it's probably in the region of 6-7 degrees camber, i used to run that on my 32, i will dial some out once i get bigger flares for the front, probably to around -5, the main thing being it has lca's which are 50mm longer for clearance (it runs modded knuckles and big lock).

tell that to race cars. oh no i might get camber wear on my tyres!! the camber it runs is for practical reasons, it's only really noticeable compared to other track cars due to the fact you can actually see the wheels poking outside the guard and they aren't sunken to shit, also the way the guard tapers in towards the bottom exaggerates the look of camber. but thanks for your input, it's not like i have any experience setting up car's suspension, so this was helpful...

favourite pic atm, but the shoot for it is coming out soon so no doubt that will change lol

hey guys, have 2x full 7 point roll cages, and 1x 5 point half cage, these will suit non-sunroof c33/a31 cefiro/laurel's. $750 for the full cages $550 for the half cage located near mitcham in SA