nisskid

there's a WTB section for this. as far as making it more comfortable, softer springs, and softer shocks (more specifically softer higher speed damping) will make it more comfortable.

ull have to be careful, with a guard roll ull be fine as far as the guard goes, but on the inside u have ur HICAS toe rod ends/knuckle, now 10" +38 is enough to foul on it, the thing is, with 18" u can often get away with it as the larger barrel can actually clear it, but it depends from rim to rim. this is what im talking about here, it's the knuckle which is closest to the camera:

yeh, that's what im saying. i also have urethane subframe bushes, soon to be pissed off and replaced with solid mounting. ive run the car at anywhere from 300mm to 400mm, ive run anywhere from 20psi to 45psi. it's lucky i dont give a shit about it otherwise id do my head in trying to figure out what the problem is.

i can tell u, i still get axle tramp in my car which is running valving designed for springs up to roughly 7kg on the rear, and is only running 4kg springs, so well and truly damped. this was the same with when i ran 5kg springs on those shocks, 4kg on the standard B6 shocks, and when i ran just the kingies on the bilsteins. at every height, etc etc. its never completely gone.

for the road, i reckon the 325/225lb/in springs on the standard shocks works ok, even if slightly underdamped, i can tell u when i redamped my rear shocks, the ride comfort died a lot, and the grip wasnt improved much at all, it certainly made it a bit harder to put the power down out of corners due to the resistance to sqaut. for a daily that doesnt see much track, i probably wouldnt reccomend it, however as a track car which see's road use as well, i wasnt overly fussed and the new shocks were well worth it. at the same time, you probably dont want an underdamped setup either, so the 325/225lb/in setup on the standard B6's isnt ideal either. id maybe be going a 200/275lb/in setup on the standard B6's.

as i mentioned, my hoist only needs like 10cm clearance, so unless ur rails are 1cm off the ground, then a wooden block is enough to get enough clearance. maybe these other hoists people are using are higher, but all i know is its easier to get my hoist in underneath, than a jack.

yeh 17" is a good size, the issue with anything smaller is it's just too hard to find much over 8" wide, which for a turbo skyline, is just too thin imo. the 17" is still relatively cheap, but has a decent range of widths.

honestly, you couldnt drop a more broad question on us. there are a million wheels out there, thousands which meet the current criteria you have set. if you just want something to get around on and to do the job, find some structurally in tact 2nd hand rims for cheap, anything from 16-18" in diametre, 8"-10", that are made from a reputable manufacturer. if you wanna know which tyre is better for drift, well it depends on ur budget, 17" is a good middle ground as it's cheaper, yet still fairly low profile and wont flop around a lot. the 18" will feel better as it will be more responsive, but u may sacrafice a bit of grip, and the tyres are more expensive. without any more details its hard to reccomend u a lot as it's just one of those things ull have to develop over time, i can tell u what works well on my car with my setup, and someone can tell u what works on their R34 with a similar setup to urs, but each car is different, and each driver is different. if it was me, id start off by looking for something around the 17x9 mark, i wouldnt wanna go below 17x8.5 for the front, and id prefer to have 17x9.5 for the rear. ideally id look for a pair of 17x9's for the front, and 17x9.5's for the rear. this size puts u in the ballpark, then id experiment from there. this allows u to start with the same width tyres all round, and work back from there going wider on the rear if you feel the need too. remember, it's easier to get the balance right with wider rims than thinner rims with drift, if ur rims are thin, and u wanna go wider ull find urself bulging tyres and giving ur car a sloppy feel, if ur rims are wide, and u wanna go thinner tyres to help the balance, ull just start stretching, which will only improve feel.

because 99% of people are doing it wrong.

lol, ok, thanks for ur valuable input.

ahk, they a euro wheel?

lol, i think ull find it doesnt look low because it doesnt have a gay kit on it or hektik 18's, to give u an idea, the cat was scraping on the road when i was doing 3-point turns because of the camber of the road. but yeh, the kits are an issue, but the actual arm is only about 7cm thick, so all id need to do is put u up onto a 5cm thick block of wood, and the arm will slide under easily.

i have pics of mine up. im asking what urs are as i like the look of them.

clem's tyres happened lol

i'd be focusing on other things first tbh, unsprung weight helps, but for $300 ud be better off saving an extra $150ish and spending ur money on adjustable sway bars. they will make a much bigger difference.

how low are ur hoists arms? mine fit under before a jack does. unless the rails are 2cm off the ground, a plank of wood thats like 6cm is usually plenty to lift the car up to get it on. this just needed a bit of wood about 3cm thick to get the arms under easily:

why not just drive onto planks of wood or something? lol

nice car, wheels look alright, what are they? look like a aussie brand, but not bad looking.

it gives you more anti-roll. the car will roll less, but you do increase the issue of inside wheel lift.

personally, i run around 340 all round, i think, i rarely measure, i usually go off eye which is a bit slack i know haha. i know people generally reccomend more height at the front, but i've found if anything a bit rake forwards helps with my car's balance. even if it does make the car look a bit goofy. i havnt had much of a chance to measure bump steer yet, that's something gary could help u a lot more with as i simply dont have the resources. i'm running both whiteline traction and camber arms, i run the traction arms roughly the same length in the turnbuckle as the camber arms and pray it's close lol. one day ill buy a bump steer gauge when i have the $$

Mono-Flex aren't a bad coilover really, much better than most cheap shit, and much better than the rest of teins stuff. overall looks like a pretty nice setup. as far as the camber arms, i reckon you may as well go with a rose joint solution, assuming the rest of ur arms are rose joint, being kazama and cusco. cusco or ikeya formula would be ur best bet. also look at lower control arms with roll centre adjusters if ur wanting to go lower without disrupting the roll centre. as far as bump steer, u can try adjustable tie rods, which change the height of where the rod attaches, this helps with bump steer on lowered cars. kinda like this: as far as JJR gear, i agree about keeping away with china, but at least it isnt in a structural position, there's not a lot u can do wrong with strut braces, the only real issue is weight, the cheaper stuff tends to weigh a bit more. but since its sprung weight, i dunno if its much of an issue. im sure sometimes there are fitment issues, but im sure JJR will refund u if there's an issue there. i picked up my Cusco adjustable strut brace for $80 2nd hand, dont think u can really go wrong with that, if i was u id be looking for something 2nd hand.

a few things about the bilsteins, for R32 GTS-t's they are quite soft off the shelf, and really cant deal with a lot over 4kg springs. however there are a few options, for the rear at least, the S13 dampers are harder, and will go into the R32 rear end. here's some figures i got a while back, speed is unknown, but they give u a rough idea on the difference Ex-length Comp L Bump Rebound S13 rear b46-1744 538 393 800 2070 R32 rear b46-1474 542 382 350 1335 the first 2 figures are lengths, as u can see slight differences, but still fit fine. now the other option for the rear, is what i've done, R32 GTR B6's, they are fairly similar damping to the S13, just the rebound and bump ratio are a bit different. but they have a different lower mount. there are a few ways to fix this so it fits a GTS-t, you can either get Bilstein in NSW to change over the lower mount, or you can put GTR hubs on like i did which swap straight over. as u can see, the lower mounts for GTS-t use the eye: the GTR use forks: and the GTR hubs: the mount swap was gonna cost roughly $150 for the 2 if i remember right, the GTR hubs cost roughly $150ea from a wrecker, depending. But the GTR hubs weigh roughly 2.5kg less each, that's a bit drop in unsprung weight, one which would cost u thousands in lightweight wheels. the only other thing is there is a cone which sits on the ball joint on the lower control are for the GTR hubs, this is to distribute the load on the alloy hubs. this cone can either be sourced from nissan, u can press one off an old GTR LCA, u can machine one up urself, or u can just put a whole GTR LCA in with the cone already on (easiest due to how firm the cone sits on the balljoint) so its worth it imo. The main reason i went with the GTR bilsteins is because i found some cheap on here, broken, needing a rebuild, and S13 Bilsteins weren't available at the time as there werent any left in Australia. As far as the front shocks go, there isnt any easy way like the rear, unfortunately the only real option is to send them off to Bilstein and get them revalved, this will cost u a bit over $300 off the top of my head.

just saw it, what a shit top 10, writers have no f**king style what so ever, alfa was average, so was the porsche, most of the rest werent bad at all tho.

it's a car that needs to be seen in the flesh to appreciate definately. i was less than impressed when i saw the car first in pics, but the first time i got up close with one it went all away.

i know a lot of serious people do, but most GTR owners are probably people who just drive out to the track and drive, and dont wanna be dealing with a big bottle of nitrogen. saying that, if you're looking to milk every advantage out, and u have the $$ for the nitrogen bottle, and can be bothered with it all, then do it. it just sounds like this isnt really an option for the thread starter.