nisskid

HR32 GTR yeh that's who i wanna import my skyline through...

sounds like toe tbh when was the last alignment?

btw, motorised bike is the way to go, completely legal without a license, and will get u a long faster and easier than a pushy. http://hardtuned.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=338491

wasnt when they were doing the road works on there?

TYRES FOR SALE 15" 2x 205/50 - Maxxis Surpasa - 90% tread - $100 pair 16" 2x 195/45 - Dunlop SP Sport 9000 - 60-70% tread - $80 pair 2x 215/55 - Goodyear Eagle NCT 5 - 90% tread - $140 pair 2x 225/50 - Firestone Firehawk Wideoval - 60% tread - $70 pair 17" 2x 215/45 - Fulda Exelero - 60% tread - $80 pair 18" 2x 245/45 - Zeetex HP101 - 80% tread - $130 pair All located near Mitcham

guess u wont be happy, luckily the owners are smart and are planning on having drift there.

UPDATED

u and me both, such a clean example.

DO NOT buy Nankangs.

its the little speed sensor/needle. its hard to explain, but theres this little plastic thing at the end of ur cable which cracks, common problem, if u buy a replacement one it will probably just happen again, especially with drift etc. people usually say just put a cable tie around the tube to hold it in place, we got some very thin wire, wrapped it around, then put some araldite on it to bond it. hasnt broken yet.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...rt+Z1+Star+Spec

no idea sorry, he's working on some stuff atm, i think he's still working with local machiners to get the price right, the funny part is his prices will probably still be competitive and in a lot of instances cheaper than the brands which just rebadge generic stuff from china/taiwan, its not so hard to understand however when u look at the incredible markup placed on the generic stuff.

alright, well here's mine: F: 8 degrees caster -2 to -1.5 degrees camber 3mm total toe out R -1 camber 0 toe now i find thats fine, except im chasing more camber at the front. that gives a good setup for the track, for the street however it depends on how worried u are about wear. for the street id go with -0.7-8 camber, 1-2mm total toe out, and maybe some less caster, i wouldnt go below around 6 degrees. then the 0 toe at the rear. that should give u a nice feeling car, that doesnt chew tyres too bad. then go from there, if the car feels great then leave it, if it is still letting u down, report the issues and u can tune ur alignment from there. a lot of people would suggest going with a more neutral alignment, and tuning from there.

its hard, because it depends on what u intend on using ur car for, and how it feels now(what ud like to improve on)

lol, what a joke. but for track use i rarely dip under -1. i think what they mean is that u will roll over onto the outside of ur tyre really quickly through a corner with that setup, meaning ull get a reduction in contact path sooner through the corner. so ull have more straight line traction, but as u push harder through a corner ur car will want to step out more compared to a setup with more negative camber. i dunno, not 100% sure what they mean.

so 12k for an older car thats been raped with terrible mods, or 10.5k for a newer car that hasnt? mmm

last year my car was defected 3 times within less than 3 months of driving. i couldnt drive it for the first 4 months last year due to a broken foot, so the rest of the 8 months of the year were divided between between being off the road due to damage, being on defect, and some driving.

43173 is the part number (for rear). i see no stars on FAST which tell me it needs to be bought as one. call up every nissan dealer u know and ask them for this part, dont sound like ur bsing around and tell them on FAST u saw no indication that they had to be bought as a group.

have u check master and slave?

technically yes they are removable, but its hard as f**k. and u really do need it, the GTR hubs are alloy and need the force distribution the cone provides. best i can recommend is if u cant get it off with force, get a very small amount of heat onto the cone (u will probably burn the old rubber boots) and try then getting it off. u may need a press though, depends from each car. btw u can buy the part separately from nissan, let me know if u need the part number.

well i guess it comes down to how much u wanna spend and how much u can fit under ur guards. any modification to ur guards? whats ur budget?

apparently 33 LCA's will get u -1 degree either side. they are next on my list. but i think ill hold out til this guy i was talking about has developed a few suspension items. he is using all the best quality stuff, and all machining is done in australia. atm its just a backyard operation, but with the amount of research he has done u can be guaranteed the products are going to be top notch and even better in some instances than some of the top products. the only difference is he wont have the same margin as companies like cusco etc

apples

http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp