nisskid

how would we know what clutch is in it? lol

good to see im not going crazy. getting ur forum fix over here as well blingy? lol

u have bushes IN the subframe, where the bolts go through which holds the subframe to the chassis, then u have bushes that sit between the subframe and the chassis. the ones that sit in between the subframe and chassis "align" ur subframe, so u can change the tilt, which changes the amount of squat u get.

I just wanted to post up about Oil Flushes, now ive never bothered with them, the only reason i did one was because the bloke at autobarn threw it in when he said he couldnt match another shops price on the Oil i was after. btw only reason i went to autobarn was because every other distributer was out of Motul Power 15w50 which i run in my old thrashed RB20 which sees a lot of track work, my reccomendation for engines with a few more K's which see a bit more hard work. anyway, so ive had my oil pressure gauge for a few years now, and with 5w30 castrol edge (bad choice), 10w40 turbolight and 15w50 power the pressure has never really changed a great deal. anyway, so ive only recently changed to Power from turbolight, in fact the oil i was about to drain was my first batch of Power. so at the same time i did this change i did oil filter and this flush (Nulon i think). so same oil, same brand filter (Ryco) only difference was the flush. 10psi gain in oil pressure on idle, no f**king shit lol. it used to sit just over 1bar, now it sits just under 2bar. dont ask me how, i dunno, it was completely unexpected.

as far as flares go:

what's the width+offset, u probably wont need flares knowing the typical 19" crap that gets around australia.

put it this way, someone who doesnt know how to put pineapples, castor bushes, or swaybars into a skyline would not be touching my skyline lol

lol at $700 labour.

as mentioned, ur studs will protrude, and most wheels have space for this. my biggest concern would be the little amount of metal thats creating ur new hub, firstly its 15mm of alloy holding ur stud in, and less than 15mm for ur old studs to hold.

that's primarily to do with them not being able to hoon lol

in fairness, how dumb can u be? lol at everyone saying "oh, bad luck" how the hell is it bad luck to drive through 2 fixed cameras speeding 10 and 20k's over the limit? that's what we call stupidity, not bad luck. u better be getting a lot of sex out of this, thats all i can say lol

when i got the car it was pretty much bone stock as well, but it had been converted to a manual, and a fairly budget job as well, maybe they came out when they did the conversion :S i run some urethane bushes i made up with my R33 diff at the front mounts as it needs to be spaced down, but nothing for the 32 diff.

lol really? mine have never had any bushes

i havnt read what gary wrote so i might be just repeating his stuff, but i did the swap not too long ago as i found some cheap GTR B6 Bilsteins. its a fairly straight forward swap, rear GTR hubs bolt up perfectly, the only issue is the little cone on the balljoint for the LCA, AFAIK this can come off (with a lot of force), and if u wanted to u could machine up ur own cone for the GTS-t arms, the cone is to distribute the force on the softer metal. i was originally going to try this, but ended up getting GTR arms with the cone already for f**k all so just put them straight in. btw while the hubs are out, u may as well do all the bushes in the hub. heres some pics that might help (GTR hubs and shocks):

u measured wrong, ive had 400mm before and it was stupidly high, possibly either didnt measure it right, or u misread (375 and 385)

isnt the diff solid anyway? lol may be different on GTR's, i know R32 GTS-t's are solid, R33 GTS-t's have a bush on the front mount. i dont care a great deal about NVM so its not something i look a lot into lol

i wouldnt bother with them. i found them close to useless.

did u replace the inner bushes, or just the subframe-chassis bushes? the real NVM comes from when u solid mount the inner bushes as well, which a lot of people dont. for a daily i would stick with Urethane, especially if ur running a lot of rubber around the place and softish suspension. there are usually other causes to the axle tramp before ur subframe bushes.

around 2 and a half kg's. and yes ur right with the metals. i weighed them the other day, cant find where i wrote it down tho lol if i remember right, GTR was around 5.3, gts-t was 7.7ish, pissed off that i cant find the exact weights.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?ma...enza+RE070R+RFT ull have to check postage prices, but even with the exchange rate they should be a lot cheaper.

TYRES FOR SALE 15" 2x 205/55 - Bridgestone mismatched pair - 70% tread - $60 3x 195/50's, all between 60-80%, $35ea, $60 for a pair 16" 2x 195/45 - Dunlop SP Sport 9000 - 60-70% tread - $80 pair 2x 205/55 - Bridgestone Turanza ER300 - 80% tread - $120 pair 4x 215/55 - Goodyear Eagle NCT 5 - 80-90% tread - $250 set 17" 2x 235/45 - Dunlop SP Sport 3000A - 70% tread - $120 18" 2x 225/45 - Nankang Ultra Sport NS-II - 80% tread, less on the shoulders - $120 Pics: 16" Dunlops: Bridgestones: Goodyears: 18" Nankangs:

lol oops, i just saw the link to GKtech and knew he sells them. they basically replace the standard rubber item with a metal one, so u increase the response and get rid of a bit of play in the steering.

they give u more steering lock, they dont change the handling in any other way, worth buying if u drift.