nisskid

yeh certainly sounds like what id expect. it's a line u kind of balance on, especially with drift, u want the response, but u dont wanna sacrafice too much grip.

17x9 +30 and 17x8 +30 both with 235/45's (closest ive got) rear: this is a close up of a 17x9 +30 on the front, will be fairly similar to a 17x8.5 +30 your guards may need a roll depending on alignment and suspension. mine was very borderline at the rear with stock arms (fair bit of camber). front i had no issues with, but that was because my suspension never compressed enough to really push the tyres into the guard. so i would try them on, and see if u can get away with them, if not get ur guards rolled and ull have plenty of clearance.

you've made a very wise decision, u wont regret it.

you're right, it isnt funny, it is VERY serious business, take them off now or forever carry the guilt that you sodomised a innocent skyline.

i cant even begin to describe my dissapointment i missed out on the shitfight.

how fast can you run in CHROME army boots made in china? a: nobody knows, they fall apart by the first step.

P2's no less.

JMS R33, still the best R33 in Aus.

out of interest was that back to back with the same tyres (brand/model) and setup? sounds about right tho.

ive brought in 2 sets, not hit with it either time. one set was 17x9 Volk GT-P's, which were like 200,000yen new (mine were 2nd hand). didnt have any issues even though they were undervalued. both times were with streeter.

id be more worried about how much time u lose on the track. and to answer that question, its impossible to tell you lol.

well, with those tyres, id run 225/45's providing ur not running much over stock, and ur looking for both cornering/line grip. if ur finding its hard to put the power down currently u could go a 235/45 at the rear.

power? current handling balance? use? intended tyre?

ok, have another look under, the castor rod is the blue arm here: ur stock arm wont be as flashy obviously, urs will be dark and will have a big bush like the whiteline ones, instead of the rose joing up there^^ now if i can see right, uve got an adjustable bush, that tube in the middle looks like it has an offset hole, this is what gives u adjustment, but it isnt on car adjustment. so what u need to do is take ur stock arm out, u may need a bit of leverage on the wheel back or forth to free (uncapture) the rod. its piss easy, ull see what i mean when u get under there. then take the arm off to a mechanic with a press, get them to change the bushes over. then before u put the arms back in, move the offsetted hole around to a point where it effectively SHORTENS the arm. this will give u more castor, which u usually want. then just put the arms back in, will probably need to leverage the wheel again.

keep with 17's, personally i think 17's look better on 32's. but yes, technically if u wanted to keep close to the same dimensions ud have to go a 235/40 and 255/35, but tbh 255/35 isnt a very common size, u might be better off going a 255/40. btw nice choice in rims, good to see people considering SSR's, great wheel.

not really, simmons and ROH would be the only ones id trust, moreso simmons. even then ur often better off just bringing over from Japan.

yeh and i later took it back and agreed that it wasnt a good balance for handling, whilst keeping with my argument that it wasnt an issue for the ATTESA. i didnt really word it very well, i shouldnt have said "this is what id do" as its not, i was just giving him an idea of what is possible. it wasnt a very clear post i admit. as i mentioned i was more focused on wheel size/ offset for ability for maximum tyre width, front to rear. i admit i was being fairly conservative with the tyre width, but in fairness i was allowing for a low camber, low ride height setup. in a lot of these cases as mentioned the reason why a lot of these people are able to fit large tyres is because there cars are high enough that ur not compressing the tyre very far if at all into the guard (mainly at the front) my honest reccomendation would be to roll the guards and go 17x9.5 +20 all round with 255/40's all round. as soon as u go beyond 255 in a 17" ur looking at much bigger $$.

thanks for the link, gave me this quote: maybe risking later down the track had issues? which wouldnt surprise me however as they are a lot larger diferences than what we are talking about here, but still worth the quote.

any evidence of this? im not saying u should, im saying u can, pretty big difference.

no i agree about the handling, just not about the attesa handling tyres with 4mm difference. nothing wrong with different sized tyres on a GTR, attesa's have a bit of tolerance before its an issue, enough tolerance that u can make almost any stagger in wheel diametre, width or tyre width fit fine on a GTR.

lol, are u serious? that kind of difference ull see on most GTR's running same size tyres anyway, whether its weight distribution (more load on front tyres, causing more compression), tyre pressure (not only cold, but heat differences will cause different pressures) and more important wear difference, ur typical road tyre has a average legal wear life of around 7mm, that means overall ur tyre will change rolling diametre by 14mm from new to worn. believe me when i tell u ur GTR wont explode over 4mm rolling diameter difference. btw, anyone remember a certain GTR, called something like the R35 i think? check the tyre specs front to rear on that. agreed, i was probably being a little on the cautious side when it came to how much u can fit under the front guards, my head wasnt really in the right place, i was mainly thinking about the best wheel size/offset and why the hell he doesnt just roll his guards tbh.

torana? then its simple, bolt-on flares