nisskid

Huge respect for this build, proven builds are great in practice and economic terms, but there is something to be said about the satisfaction of looking outside the box and creating solutions which push the boundaries. To succeed doing this is to properly achieve something, however just dumping a bunch of cash at a workshop to build your car to 400kw using the same methods that have been used a million times before, is just that, very little has been learned, and in my mind, very little has been achieved.

95-105 usually, up to 115 on tight tracks. but you have to consider, it is an RB20...

ideally you use some rack spacers like the ones from Garage 7 / SMM, and that is really all you need. Garage 7 sell them for $150 i think off the top of my head, or you might be able to get some 2nd hand.

hey mate, with all knuckles they will bind at a point, i was running out of clearance with 60mm worth of spacers (17x8 -30) and 60mm longer LCA's by the time i was getting bind, but i was running a pretty shitty tie rod/rack setup which didn't help.

Hey guys i've had these knuckles for a few years, they are a great improvement over the standard R32 knuckles, but i've moved on and now running a macpherson front end, so these knuckles don't fit any more. They were made my JDI fabrications and are bloody strong, at least as strong as standard, but probably more so. These also come with hubs so it saves you the effort of removing and refitting the hubs (absolute shitty job to do haha) and mean they can bolt straight on. chasing $300 for the pair, can send them anywhere for about $30. Located in SA near Mitcham

it's actually more time that's important than k's. if you take your car for a thrash, have a bunch of contamination sitting in the oil, it has time to react with the ester even if it's not being driven. obviously the more k's and the more blow by = more contamination, so it's a mixture of a few elements really. but yeh, from what penrite say, they believe that you will generally need to change oil for other reasons before the ester begins to break down, so with regular changes it is ok. i'm gonna aim to change every few months which will be about 4-6 track days, so should be fine.

R33 Boot with Spoiler, overall good condition, $200

with a drift car you'd be very lucky to see more than a few hundred k's between oil changes, i know some that wouldn't see 100k's. would hate to see how many a drag car gets, if it even gets 1 lol

Have these for sale for a mate so please call him on 0439386976 if you're interested: Looking at selling my wheels as I want to go bigger to 19s! Wheels: SSR SP1 Specs: 17x8.5 +10 9.5 +30 Condition: Small amount of gutter rash on 2-3 but not raelly noticeable. Tyres: Front - Continental 225-45 Rear - Goodyear Eagle 2000 245-40 Both above wear indicator with plenty of rubber left. The first photo is the worst condition wheel, as you can see in the 2nd photo I have polised the lip and it has come up good as new. Located in SA

R32 and R33 BRAKES R33 Front Calipers with EBC GreenStuff pads: $250 R33 Front Rotors (both drilled and standard): $200 R33 Rear Calipers: $100 R33 Rear Rotors: $100 R32 Front Calipers: $170 R32 Front Rotors: $130

Located near Mitcham in SA, can post anywhere R33 Front Calipers with EBC GreenStuff pads: $250 R33 Front Rotors (both drilled and standard): $200 R33 Rear Calipers: $100 R33 Rear Rotors: $100 R32 Front Calipers: $170 R32 Front Rotors: $130

Hey guys have these Genuine RAYS engineering, Volk Racing Challenge's here, extremely strong and lightweight, great for performance. No real introduction needed for these wheels i guess, they are top of the line from Volk Racing, so most people know about them already i'm sure. Specs: 5x 114.3 Stud Pattern 17x8" +32 -- 235/45 Tyres (70% tread) 17x9" +35 -- 255/40 Tyres (70% tread) Fit overs big calipers, came off R33 GTS-t Will Suit: R32/R33/R34 S14/S15 Supra RX7 Ford's etc etc Condition: Great condition, a few scratches here and there, but good overall. Location: SA, near Mitcham Price: $950 w/o tyres $1100 with tyres Pics: (not the exact wheels, but same model)

i ended up using penrite 10tenth racing 20, absolutely no blow by in the catch can, but nothing else to report at this stage.

the laurel after a bit of a makeover:

REAR R33/S14/S15 Adjustable Bilstein Coilovers Hey guys, have some rear damper and height adjustable coilovers built custom here in SA with bilstein dampers, they came off an S15 and run 5kg springs with dampers valved in Melbourne to suit (with enough scope to go softer or harder springs within a few kg/mm each way). These will fit either S14/S15 Silvia's or R33 Skylines. Don't f**k around with cheap junk, or even "Jap" coilovers which are actually mostly made in China/Taiwan, when even the better quality Jap coilovers fail they very rarely can be rebuilt. Bilstein dampers are made in Germany, and more importantly have full support within Australia thanks to their use within racing circles. Reason for selling is i bought them as a set, and as much as i'd like to use the rears as well, i can't make them fit the R32 rear end. Price: $500 Located near Mitcham in SA, can post anywhere in Aus.

TYRES ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS 16" 2x 205/55 - Michelin/Pirelli (Mismatched pair) - 40% tread - $40 2x 205/55 - Michelin/Pirelli (Mismatched pair) - 60-70% tread - $70 17" 2x 205/50 - Advan/Michelin (Mismatched Pair) - 80% tread - $80 2x 215/45 - Mismatched Pair - 60% tread - $60 2x 215/45 - Altenzo's - 70% tread (damaged sidewall, not for street) - $50 2x 225/45 - Dunlop/Pirelli (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $60 2x 235/50 - Goodoyear Excellence - 60-70% tread - $70 2x 245/45 - Michelin/Firestone (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $60 18" 2x 245/40 - Ventus/Nexen (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $70 2x 245/40 - Bridgestone/Dunlop (mismatched pair - sidewall damage in 1) - 60-70% tread - $60 2x 245/45 - Yokohama/Bridgestone (mismatched pair) - 70-80% tread - $80 19" 2x 255/30 - Advan Neova AD08 - 60% tread - $110

Hey guys, have some rear damper and height adjustable coilovers built custom here in SA with bilstein dampers, they came off an S15 and run 5kg springs with dampers valved in Melbourne to suit (with enough scope to go softer or harder springs within a few kg/mm each way). These will fit either S14/S15 Silvia's or R33 Skylines. Don't f**k around with cheap junk, or even "Jap" coilovers which are actually mostly made in China/Taiwan, when even the better quality Jap coilovers fail they very rarely can be rebuilt. Bilstein dampers are made in Germany, and more importantly have full support within Australia thanks to their use within racing circles. Reason for selling is i bought them as a set, and as much as i'd like to use the rears as well, i can't make them fit the R32 rear end. Price: $500 Located near Mitcham in SA, can post anywhere in Aus.

neither does my RB20 dead set every time i pull the catch can off there's only dust and water in there (sits in the wheel well)

WTB: R32 GTR fuel tank + straps, or even just the straps.

i pay about 100-110c a litre here in SA. haven't noticed a huge increase in consumption on the track, even with a bigger turbo and 50% more power.

makes plenty of sense, RB20's > everything else

thanks mate.

makes the car vulnerable unfortunately, ok for 99.9% of cars, not for what this car sees.

thanks mate, how long had it been in there though? i recognise that i will need to replace it every year or 2, but the stuff i'm looking at is from autosport and designed for ethanol/methanol use so i'd expect it would work fine until then.