nisskid

are u drunk?

ur better off with a european solution for that

^^lol, i took a crowbar to my gaurd last weekend, does that mean i dont deserve a skyline?

cheap builds get nowhere, it depends what u want. if u wanna go skid out in the industrials then great, if u wanna be door to door with another car in competition then thats another.

u can buy 4dr overfenders. matched with a GTR front bar, bonnet, guard, indicators and spoiler and u have a GTR look a like.

lol how many times has this been posted up? are RB20e R33's THAT amazing? come on people, time to do ur skyline homework: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/skyline/

huh? u do realise u WANT grip when drifting right?

that's how it's done

yeh agreed.

and its one thing to do it to a GTS-t, but a GTR? dont know why ud spend an extra 10-15k for the performance of a GTR if ur just gonna ruin the thing with shitty mods.

i wouldnt go lower than lows, especially on standard dampers. they should drop the car by about 20-25mm i think. personally i think it would be a shame to see someone put super lows in a R33 GTR just to look hektik, GTR's are performance cars, spend the money on a proper suspension setup, a GTR isnt a VN commie. putting superlow kingies in a GTR is like drinking VB at a wedding.

what do u mean take it out for track, u mean the HICAS or the speed sensitive front steering? there is a speed sensitive control, pretty sure it works off the speedo cable, im pretty sure there are 2 stages, full power steering, and just power assist. personally i think any proper circuit work feels like shit with only power assist, having only power assist for highway driving is good as not much turning is needed, so the wheel is firm and doesnt want to move a lot, but when ur trying to move it a lot like at the track it feels like shit. a manual rack is one thing, a powered rack without powersteering is another, atm i have an issue where i can only get power assist at all speeds (due to not having a speedo) and especially for drift it feels like shit, yes its harder to turn, but not in a good way, the rack is very sluggish unlike a manual rack, it provides fark all feedback and just doesnt feel very responsive at all. this probably has nothing to do with what ur talking about, but yeh.

front or rear?

this thing is nuts, u need to make a thread in a better section where theres more traffic.

1: find some bent high end expensive wheels 2: get them for dirt cheap 3: put on car 4: claim they were damaged by the roads 5: ???? 6: profit

i think i get what ur trying to say, but it looks like ur talking about slip ons, not bolt on spacers? but yes, slip ons do add more leverage to the sheer force placed on the studs. but i think if u look at the original post by mid life crisis, he simply refers to pushing the wheel out further, no reference to spacers, so im assuming he meant simply lowering the offset/increasing the track. i personally wouldnt reccomend slip-on spacers any bigger than a few mm, the hub ring usually protrudes around 5mm, so unless ur using hubcentric slip ons (fairly rare) u lose ur hub at anything from about 4mm and over, and ur wheel is no longer hubcentric, that placed with the extra load we were talking about before, ur asking for trouble.

yeh mines gonna be silly, but i think ill be trailering out there, as i cbf getting the defect cleared by friday.

seriously, search, there are a lot of threads around with REAL information, ud be stupid if u went purely off this thread. and it depends what u consider a good brand, u arent going to get a good quality item with height and damper adjustment for 1-1.5k new, simple. u wanna spend f**k all, ur gonna get f**k all, just because the metal is all anodized and pretty doesnt make them good quality suspension. also you do not need damper adjustability, and u will not get damper adjustability worth using for ur price range. my experience is that u wont listen to a word i say, because it doesnt fit with what u ideally want in ur head, and ull go and buy some cheap suspension, it will be hard, it will go low, and ull think its the bee's knees, reccomend it to everyone u know, the vicious cycle of cheapy suspension will keep on turning, and you'll never be wise to the fact of how bad ur suspension really was because u never had something decent to compare it to, and we just pray u sell ur car soon enough that u dont have to deal with the inevitable failing/breaking of the suspension.

breaker bar with c-spanners? lol

really? i would have thought the mounting surface being closer to the centre of the wheel (where the load is spread more evenly each side) would have been beneficial. 2 points here, biggest cause of failure there is from harsh bumps in the road, not from cornering force, here the car sits static with almost always negative camber, this means staticly there is more force on the inside of the wheel, and when u hit a bump the suspension compresses, causing more dynamic negative camber, putting even more stress towards the inside of the wheel. so if the stress here is put on the inside of the wheel, putting the mounting surface closer to the inside of the wheel, or at least closer to the middle, means the load is spread more evenly at the mounting surface, and there is less leverage. hard to explain, this might help:

hey man, i have some king spring lows for the rear, i bought mine for $150 a pair, not sure what they are worth these days. let me know if ur keen on them, save urself a bit of $$ buying these and a pair of newies for the front. also interested in ur stock suspension if u still have it, maybe stike up a trade?

WTB: stock front suspension for a R32 GTS-t only interested until thursday night, otherwise will be too late, so let me know ASAP.