nisskid

thread can sometimes stick, my c-spanners are shaped like spagetti from all the times ive bent them trying to get off a stuck thread. just need to get some leverage on the spanners.

lol every cop says that, but none ever do, u might get one breach of adr's, but ive never heard of people getting a breach of ADR's for every defect on their car under normal circumstances.

they are interchangable, but usually slightly different.

buy adjustable arms, adjustable bushes are useless ive found, f**k all adjustment and not "on-car adjustable"

not to mention creating a weak lip which will deform easily and a sharp edge (even if u tidied it up) that can cut a tyre.

stock springs are a bit of a bitch to measure, but mine just measured 78mm and 89mm with a vernier. and no, R32 and S13 arent the same.

jack car up, take wheels off, take nuts off the top of the suspenion at the towers, take nut off the bottom mount, take out standard coilovers (may need a bit of levering), put new coilovers in, do bolts back up, very tight on the bottom, firm but not too tight on the top. shouldnt take a mechanic more than 30 minutes (working at a typical mechanic speed lol), takes me about 10 minutes to do all 4 corners when im in a rush.

lol, locate strut towers, take nuts off bolts protruding from tower, slip brace on, tighten nuts. probably no write ups as its so simple its not worth writing about.

sway bars still connected properly? dont think u need to take them off to change the engine, but it does go near to the sump so its possible. also did u have a strut brace on before? not usually a noticeable "handling" difference, mostly a mid-corner grip thing. also was it a straight engine swap? u didnt put a heavier engine in did u?

in theory, there is nothing wrong with spacers, as long as the spacer itself isnt bad enough quality that its gonna fail. the only thing a spacer does is introduce another mechanical connection, it DOES NOT create any extra strain on the standard hub/studs. people mainly think spacers cause more strain on the standard hub because it creates more leverage, 2 points about this, 1: putting a spacer in there has no more effect on the standard hub then going a lower offset wheel (for instance putting a 25mm spacer on a +30 offset wheel is the same as going a +5 offset wheel). 2: if anything, ur reducing leverage in most cases as ur bringing the offset closer to 0 neutral (middle of the rim) a spacer is effectively the same as offset, the only difference is instead of the extra metal on the mounting surface being casted on when the wheel was created, it is being connected there with a mechanical connection. now as long as this mechanical connection is created with qaulity parts, there is no issue with this, when u put on new spacers, they are usually a lot less likely to fail than ur old worn standard items, so ultimately the weak link is usually in the standard existing mechanical connection, not the new one that u introduce. but in the end, u are introducing another mechanical connection, which is A weak point that can fail, but usually not the weakest point. now, all this is relying on the fact that everything is kept hubcentric, one of the biggest issues with spacers is people dont buy hubcentric spacers or they dont use hubcentric rings, now a lot of people dont use the hubcentric rings with their aftermarket wheels anyway, but when ur using spacers as well and u have 2 mechanical connections, ur doubling the issue. basically studs are only designed to take longitudinal force, when u dont keep things hubcentric (hub ring on mounting surface completely filling the centre hole in the rim, keeping it snug), the wheel is allowed to move sideways on the mounting surface, this introduces sheer force to the studs, which the studs are not designed for and have bugger all tolerance for, so they can fail. the last point is make sure u loctite the nuts on the inside, not that there is a big chance they will loosen, its just if they do u wont know as u cant access them.

GTR - giving natural selection a helping hand since '07

porsche would be devo lol

SAME RIM after being on a high power fwd car at the track.

a few roadworthy issues, missing a nut and bolt here and there, which is fair enough. then my suspension, i felt like i was talking with a 16yo with his first import, he kept saying i had coilovers, and that coilovers are illegal, i kept telling him that coilovers were standard, the only difference with mine is that my standard components have been replaced, and that the adjustment is within the seats which were not there. i was told on the phone that as long as u arent able to adjust the height without pulling the suspension apart if was considering non-adjustable and legal. the other issue was 2/3 travel, he said "how do we know these maintain 2/3 travel" and i said if i came in with monroe OE replacements, would i be alright? and he said yep, i asked why that was, the only difference between my bilsteins and monroes is one costs a hell of a lot more. apparently when u have bilsteins, ur suspension is all of a sudden considered coilovers, but if u put in monroes or some other budget shock its not. i might just mention these had been through twice before. also caster rods, the fact that they'd been through twice before as well didnt seem to matter.

i wanna punch something in the face.

yeh my bad, had a mental blank, was thinking the V-spec's were still 16x8's just in the different design.

it's 300 lol

incorrect, negative feedback is critical in improving.

a completely useless concept.

u turned out a 100metres or so in front of me, my car was regency spec so doubt u would have noticed it.

worry about buying a decent tyre first, better off with a better thinner tyre, than a worse wider tyre. understanding im judging a book by its cover, but going by ur avatar ur car doesnt look like it needs anything over 300mm wide.

what GTR was that?

yeh i pretty much lost all hope when i read that as well.

saw Dohmar on portrush