nisskid

u have to understand that question is basically the same as asking "what turbo should i run" without added details theres really no way we can answer it. what tyres do u want to run, whats ur budget, do u want to stretch, do u want lightweight, are u willing to roll ur guards, do u want tough fitment etc etc

their stroke is shorter lol. with a lot of coilovers, the springs are short enough that ur not using the full stroke anyway, only issue there is they are more susceptible to inside wheel lift.

fronts are probs just short stroke

yes

yeh but not 25 either way lol

ok ill try and explain this, as i think i know the train of thought ur on atm. basically if u sit 2 springs on the ground vertically, one 6" and one 8" both the same spring rate, then chuck a 300kg weight on them, the weight on the longer spring will sit higher.

yeh theres a lot of unneeded figures on there (well for a lot of people), just read the ones in the model number and ull be fine, the spring seat ur using is obviously what defines the ID u need, the spring rate is pretty obvious, its only the length thats a bit harder to get a grip of as it will determine the height ur car sits at.

first and biggest mistake. and lol at 20cm spacers. pretty simple i thought, buy some stockies and put them on, better than any of the shit bob jane would put on, honestly the fact that people would put wheels from bob jane on a GTR is a joke.

do u need to go buddy club springs? can u not just go a replacement spring from one of the many spring manufacturers? btw u wanna go a shorter spring, not a longer one.

probably not OE replacements, but they go up to 3" ID, and like 14" length so im sure there is a spring u could use. anyone know what ID standard springs are? i could probably go up and measure the ones ive got up in my shed but cbf lol

nah, we just drive harder over here

id keep it on the 34, better unit than that on the R32 and such.

yeh still running the bilsteins, but on the lookout for S13 rears, according to a mate who works at a place who supplies sells bilsteins, the S13's are damped much harder than the R32 gear, in fact the R32 gear is apparently really soft, so for the 6/5 combo its really underdamped. these are the figures he gave me: Ex-length Comp L Bump Rebound S13 rear b46-1744 538 393 800 2070 R32 rear b46-1474 542 382 350 1335 my old R32 dampers will be going into an R31, but ill still need to get my front R32 dampers revalved to suit the 6kg coils

yeh his prices were never that great, even at GB prices they could still be beaten.

5kg, the eibachs were 4kg. the hypercoils are also 7" instead of 8". the fronts will stay the same (eibach's, 8" 6kg)

its actually not that hard, 3 real figures u need to know, ID (inner diametre), spring rate and length. these are usually printed on each spring, if u were looking to replace ur springs then simply match the eibach springs with the ones in there atm. to give u a rough idea where to start Gary sends the R32 guys for their bilsteins 0800.250.325(and 225 for rear) this basically means, 8" long, 2.5" ID and 325 and 225 lbs/in (6/4kg) goes fair well with the bilsteins, although ull need a helper at the rear to keep it captured, as well as the front depending on how low u go.

basically its just a bit catalog u can used to replace springs haha

http://eibach.com/eibach/img/ers-catalog-2004.pdf quite a few decent suspension shops can get them in.

ive seen quite a few.

unless they have copped severe damage, the metal properties will still be intact and they will have most if not all of their original strength. actually, only a very small amount of jap rims are forged.

tbh im not real fussed, it will take me 2 seconds to set it up without adjustment.

the ADR form in the defected thread leaves a lot of stuff out, which might get u out of a defect from a police officer, but the regency guys know their shit. what i said was what i was told from regency.

they will be fine

yeh for me in my car they were absolutely useless, apart from the fact u cant adjust them on car, they just didnt give me much noticable adjustment, i couldnt get below -1.5 camber on the rear with the camber bushes set to reduce camber as much as possible. car was still quite high as well. same story with caster, best i could get was like 5. same story with my mates car whos runnning the same gear. as far as springs, i agree, i wouldnt bother with the kingies or whitelines if i had my time again, i guess for the road they were ok, but for any decent track performance u really need to go higher rates and better springs, im currently running eibach but i just ordered some hypercoils to replace the rears, ive heard good things about them and they are a bit cheaper.

my 2c, these things are useless: Shock Boots + Bumpstops (Pair) - $65 Front Upper Control Arm Camber Bushes - $253 Front Castor Rod Bushes (Offset tube for Adjustment) - $99 Rear Upper Control Arm Camber Bushes - $132 if ur not too fussed with alignment just get plain urethane bushes (providing they are a fair bit cheaper) if u do want decent adjustment buy some proper arms, i went down the whiteline arms route as they have urethane bushes, but there are a few clearance issues to consider with these (which i wont go into unless someone wants me too) as far as the shock boots and bump stops, as long as they are the ones in the GB, they are pretty shit and certainly not worth the $$.