nisskid

innocent til proven guilty, they should have to prove its unsafe, we shouldnt have to prove its safe. unfortunately it doesnt work like this, we have to pay $130 just to prove our own innocence even if we havnt done anything wrong. the defect system is an absolute disgrace and until its fixed some police will continue to abuse it, i think its great that we are working with a few police officers, but if we think for a second this will make any noticable difference on the streets we are kidding ourselves. maybe as far as SAU cruises are concerned there might be a bit of releif, but the hour or 2 i spend on a cruise once every few weeks is hardly going to make a difference to the many hours a day i spend on the road having to take special "anti-police" routes, having to position myself between cars in my lane to hide my car from police cars going the opposite direction and having to spend every second on the road searching for police cars, just so i can limit my defect count to only a few times a year instead of more. im sorry, i just dont beleive the problem can really be solved until the defect system is fixed, which i dont see happening any time soon as it is cost efficient and doesnt affect the majority of the public, and nobody gives a shit about the hoons, they deserve to have their cars taken off the road, so why change it? like i said, any cooperation between us and sapol is a step in the right direction, i just dont think people should be rushing out of their bomb shelters just yet.

only thing i can think of is that the toe rods are very different lengths, this would mean when the wheels are straight, the rack isnt centred, but this would mean on a standard wheel would be turned, unless its been taken off and put back on crooked, then the alignment guys have centred the steering wheel with the toe rods, which has made one shorter than the other.

just remember, ull run into legality issues when relocating the battery,

lasting long doesnt make them a good tyre, in fact often it means the opposite, cheap hard compound which lasts for ever because it never creates much grip. but i do get ur point, a lot of the cheaper tyres often last longer than more expensive tyres, especially with drift, something about the construction that holds up to delaminating better, tyres like the potenzas which are often great performing tyres are known for delamination with drift.

u got an aftermarket wheel with a boss kit?

once again, it comes down to why would u buy a R33 GTR if u dont push the car, if ur not interested in performance then why buy a R33 GTR?

because they are thin and relatively heavy, being thin means u cant go very wide tyres, and if u try anything slightly wide ull get the tyres balooning, this means u can often get the tyres flopping over the place under heavy cornering.

mm, wonder what happened, i was cruising with him on the bush fire cruise when we got held up with traffic and split from the group, that must have been around 5ish.

a few types of height adjustment available, one where u manually change where the lower seat sits on the shock, another having a threaded sleeve where the seat can be wound up and down. both require u getting under the car.

RE001's are good, nothing amazing, but will do the job. id also look at ur dunlop options, something like Sport Maxx's

useless with out a list of suspension mods, including adjustable arms, sway bars, spring rates, tyres etc etc also mid corner, entry, exit? is it only when u accelerate, or does it understeer even on coast?

my thoughts are drive on the road on stockers and spend ur money on good rims (quality not looks) and tyres for the track. but since i can tell ur shooting that idea down in flames in ur head right now, id suggest if u really want something that looks good, and u dont really give a shit abot quality then the D1R's are fine, they wont break like glass, but id personally keep them on the road and not take them to the track, i wouldnt reccomend stockies for the track, even with semi slicks, but i guess thats up to u. personally id spend about a grand on some good quality wheels for the track, dont have to be uber lightweight, just something that is made by a reputable manufacturer, (Rays, BBS, Work to a lesser extent) in a track/sports orientated form (NOT meisters, vs-kf's etc etc), strength is the key, without being a boat anchor.

http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/skyline/

could be tyres, suspension, alignment, power deliver, diff, or driver skill. without anymore info we would only be guessing.

yeh but my question is, why buy a GTR if ur just looking for something "satisfactory", if u want something that is just roadworthy buy a R33 GTS or better yet a aussie delivered ecconomy box.

lol thats awesome.

assuming these are for a R33 GTR (quick topic search), can i just ask u this, why would u buy a R33 GTR, a performance car, then stick boat anchors on it and only wrap it with cheap rubber. is it a status thing? most people who buy a GTR and use it properly for what the car is designed for would be lucky to only go through 2 sets of tyres a year, if u want something u can throw cheap ecconomy shit on buy a ecconomy box.

couldnt have said it better myself. $220 and u still end up with a bottom end tyre, gotta love owning 19's.

take it to a tyre shop and ask them? i usually wouldnt reccomend getting advice from a tyre shop, but they are really the only ones that can tell u whether its repairable or not as they will be able to inspect it and they will know whether they can fix it or not.

i personally wouldnt be using drift teks with semi slicks at the track.

er... it is a track pig lol. dents were made on defect, the car was defected without any dents or anything, but if ur willing to panel beat and respray then be my guest

just spend the $$ and get something decent, eibach, hypercoil, even race teins and kingies (the higher grade steel ones)

should have chucked me a PM, u can get a 10" under GT-t guards fairly comfortably if u do it right.

Lenso D1R, they are a new cheapie wheel on the market.

how thick are ur sway bars and how much stroke do ur dampers have? im assuming thats at full droop?