nisskid

115ltrs + 65ltrs in the tank, the ol 20 doesnt chew through much thankfully.

Just looking to get some opinions on the pro's and cons of the foam as opposed to the usual plate baffles. Basically i've just pulled out my standard fuel tank and noticed the stock baffle is loose at the bottom and moving around, i'm in 2 minds as to whether i try and solder it back into place, or remove it and stuff tank foam in. It's a track car which runs E85, changing it every few years isn't an issue, i'm just not sure if there's anything more i need to know about the foam before i look at it as an option. I'm assuming it's fine to use within the standard tanks, and that there's no issues getting it in through the inspection hole. The car is used for drift, baffling is fairly important, i have a surge tank sitting on my shelves, but not keen to put it in and lose boot space unless i need to. cheers

dunno, but it's a bitch when we go interstate as we have to carry like 5 jerry cans for events.

hard to go past it in SA, can't got a few K's without a place to fill up with E85 here.

royal purple means API SN and G5-F. i think i'm going to try RP first, as the penrite 10 tenths range hasn't hit supercheapauto stores yet, and they don't carry motul at all, for the price i will pay for the RP with discount, it's not gonna be much more than the penrite or motul from autobarn.

the only thing is just because a oil doesn't meet SN standards doesn't mean it can't be used with E85, some of the other criteria's which it might not meet are absolutely no concern to me, however it does raise concerns. penrite 10 tenths racing meets API SN, the motul is SL, it would be interesting to find out exactly why, that might be in my next email to motul.

if it was a figure like that with no additional free revving response, then i probably wouldn't bother, but it's worth remembering, it would literally be about a half hour job, if that, people spend a lot more time making amazing looking CAI's which would give you barely that.

i'm looking to run 2x 100w headlights, + 2x 55w lights (drifting in places with no lighting, or poor lighting), twin shrouded thermo's behind the radiator, 2x thermo fans in front of the radiator (1 in front of the oil cooler, 1 in front of p/s cooler), if you think that + all the ignition/fuel pump/accesories/ecu etc etc doesn't chew a bit, then you're kidding yourself. once you consider the inefficiencies of the alternator, it's probably not such a insignificant figure, but hey, that's just my opinion.

like i said, even if it's a few kw over the board, we spend more time on the dyno trying to get that peak power through tuning than it would to wire in a switch. more importantly however it's off load response may benefit a decent amount, if so for drift being able to get your revs up high quickly is important (clutch kicks/drops)

being a drift car, we are driving at some times up to 90 degrees, and on some technical tracks like skid pan or go kart tracks, or hairpins, as low as 30km/h, the thermo's are still effective at these points.

pretty sure that was more penrite's reaction, that regardless of what you use, you have to change it very often, motul seem more confident in certain products lasting longer than others, but still benefiting from regular changes.

this is the part that worries me, that's not a bad idea actually, run a smaller battery running off the alternator constantly for vitals, and then i'm thinking maybe add a switch in which mean you can turn the alternator on to replenish the bigger battery running fans (and possibly the headlights etc).

you can't get rid of all the mechanical load on the motor without fully removing the alternator, however you can reduce the load, the more the battery requires, the more loaded up the alternator needs, if you basically tell the alternator to not bother charging the battery at all, you reduce the load hugely. this is one in use, the eco guys are jumping on board with it, although i think it's kind of stupid as realistically the fuel usage will equal out, a lot of them instead are just manually recharging when they get home and run no alternator at all. mm, the cost of a switch vs the cost of a larger turbo + support mods and new tune, hard decision lol. even if we are talking about better off load engine response, for drift that's quite handy, for the effort of flicking a switch after each run, it's worth it.

wondering if anyone has played around with an alternator switch, a switch to disable it to reduce load on the engine, for applications like drift/drag i can see it's use, my worry is voltage drop even over a short period which could cause ignition issues. i'm looking at using thermo fans instead of clutch fans, and hoping i can bypass the disadvantages of the current they draw putting load back on the engine. if i can get away with 1 minute of hard driving, then 4 minutes of easy driving/idling to restore the battery, then i'd be happy. the other question is if it's possible to add the switch to be triggered by your pedal, so anything over half throttle it automatically switches it off, or whether this constant on-off environment is shit for an alternator. i know it used to be used by a few of the drag guys back in the day, wondering if there's an obvious reason i don't see as to why it's not more popular? probably a stupid question, but interest either way.

it's a semi-synth, i think the main thing here is you can use any oil you want with e85, as long as you are prepared to change it very regularly, maybe even after each usage, and assuming there isn't ridiculous blow by, the thing is what oils deal with it and can be used without changing for a while, it's basically an economy thing. from my run with motul oils, i have put my engine through hell without issues with the 4100's, so i'd be happy to go to the 6100 and have slightly better dealing with the ethanol content, but the same protection. the question is, would the penrite provide the better protection? i get the feeling it would, but im not sold it will deal with the ethanol as well. for me, i want to lean towards the penrite as i can get discount through SCA, and they don't carry motul.

another email from Motul, worth the read, definitely making me more confident in their product, not just recommending any of their products, actually pointing to specific products best suited to the ethanol.

liqui-moly's reply: really not what you'd call a comprehensive answer.

i love this thing, first C34 i really liked, it runs a Bee*R style limiter as well, all you can hear while it's on the track is a huge backfire every few seconds haha

i'm still not sure, it seems motul are saying as far as dealing with E85, the 6100 is the best, no mention of 300v, however penrite have just recommended their best oil in a thicker weight to deal with dilution. it seems there are 2 thoughts, penrite believe their detergents will handle any water content from the ethanol, i'm going to try and locate exactly what motul believes makes their oils deal with the water.

at this stage i seem to be pretty confident that the 6100 is the best to deal with the ethanol, but the penrite is a better oil as far as protection goes etc based on tests i've seen (ULP tests however)

and another reply from Penrite after further questioning with some good info.

just got a reply from Motul: ------------------

from what im reading, that's a good call. i'm looking to run this: http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/engine-oils/10-tenths-racing/racing_20_____shear_free as was recommended in the email, the additional thickness helps with any dilution ill get with the e85. as a track car with decent k's and gets thrashed hard, the extra thickness cant hurt either anyway. my only worry is it does seem to be ester based, so i dunno.

yes, it will rip all the shit out, i had it so bad i had to run twin filter setup whilst i wasn't able to drop the tank

i've been going through this process a bit, i've been watching this thread since the beginning but didn't post til i had something to share, i sent an email off to a bunch of oil manufacturers, the 1st one replied was penrite. the more i read into penrite, the more i'm convinced they are the way to go. Dear Stewart, Thank you for considering Penrite for your race car. Our direct equivalent to the Motul product is HPR 15 fully synthetic (SAE 15W-60). The “extra 10” on that right hand side affords more protection as the oil “thins out” less with temperature than would a 15W-50. The temperatures of which you speak are well within the operating range of HPR 15, even 130 degrees presents no concern. A more expensive option would be Racing 15 (SAE 15W-50), the new name for SIN 15. This is a shear-free oil for high performance applications. No engine oil is comfortable with ethanol or methanol but in order to minimise fuel dilution we tend to go a little heavier. This makes Racing 20 (formerly called SIN 20) my recommendation for your particular needs (SAE 20W-60): this is also shear-free. I’ve attached the relevant information sheets, for your consideration (including the “old” SIN 15 & 20). Our Customer Service folk will tell you the prices. Regards, Alan Jeffery Technical Department Penrite Oil Company tel 1800 110 080 fax 61 3 9801 0977 -------------------- Hello Stewart, further to Alan’s email I can provide Recommended Retail pricing for you on each of these, however this is a guide only and costs may vary from store to store. HPR15 5lt RRP $45.53 Racing 20W60 5lt RRP $69 Racing 15W50 5lt RRP $69 all prices are inclusive of GST. If you are looking for a stockist in your area please visit our website at www.penriteoil.com.au and use the store locator by postcode, this will give you a list of customers who stock Penrite in your area, any product they don’t have in stock they will be able to order on your behalf. Cheers Kim Kim Windahl Customer Service Manager Penrite Oil Company T +61 3 8805 4448 | F +61 3 9800 4055