nisskid

dunno who ur buying from but if ur paying anywhere near $250 ur getting ripped off big time. saying that, i just remembered it is a R33 not a R32, and the R33 LCA's are in a bit more demand and cost a bit more, so might be a bit more but still no where near $250. i still marvel at how people on SAU seem to get ripped off so much

define ideal, personally i wouldnt touch anything above +30. its easier to modify ur guard's clearance, than it is ur suspension's.

technically they only boot it to the speed limit, or thats the theory apparently. then they put the lights on once u keep going which allows them to speed. i dunno, its pretty bullshit, but if ur dragging VE's u deserve to be done anyway.

both, i found my 17x9 +30 with 235's just scraped at the rear, never at the front, although i think thats to do with suspension as my 17x9 +16's with 235's never scraped either and they were mexican up front.

they were here: now they are flared

anything over $1000 for this is laughable, even anything over $500 is a joke, i personally wouldnt pay over $100 ($150 if u need caster bracket as well).

i cant guarentee shit, every car is different, but chances are it will.

its not about who u know, its about what u know, use ur head and u wont need to have mad connections.

they will probably scrap eventually, just depends whether ur suspension will compress enough. just roll ur guard and be done with it, dont know why people even bother with standard gaurds any more.

i had a SS one try and drag me, staging at the lights, revving etc etc, soon as they took off saw the police LCD screen in the car. lol

ahk, im basically just interested on what was done to it to get it to the level it was at, so really just everything.

basically everything haha

I have some aristo stockies up for sale, nice and wide, great for track rims, or just a good upgrade for the road. One of the pairs is wrapped in basically brand new 245/50 Potenza RE-01's, for anyone that doesnt know these tyres, they are the closest thing to a road legal semi slick u can get, basically the grippiest tyre u can get thats legal for the road. Great for the track and road. Specs: F: 16x7.5 +50 225/55 Dunlops with probably about 4mm tread R: 16x8.5 +50 245/50 Bridgestone Potenza RE-01's, 95% tread. centerbore: ≈60mm (suit toyotas) i also have some 25mm spacers i can chuck in with them with the centre bore and hub sizes perfect for these wheels to go on a nissan. for reference GTS-t and S14 stockies are 16x6.5, S13 are like 15x5.5 or something and GTR's are only 16x8 so these are a great cheap upgrade. Prices: Fronts: $120 Rears: $350 Rear rims only: $180 Rear tyres only: $200 Front and Rears: $450 Spacers: $100 Located near mitcham in SA, can post anywhere in australia for around $150 Pics (rolled them across a muddy ground, so they are a bit dirty, but can still see the tread depth etc): more pics upon request if ur serious.

I have some aristo stockies up for sale, nice and wide, great for track rims, or just a good upgrade for the road. One of the pairs is wrapped in basically brand new 245/50 Potenza RE-01's, for anyone that doesnt know these tyres, they are the closest thing to a road legal semi slick u can get, basically the grippiest tyre u can get thats legal for the road. Great for the track and road. Specs: F: 16x7.5 +50 225/55 Dunlops with probably about 4mm tread R: 16x8.5 +50 245/50 Bridgestone Potenza RE-01's, 95% tread. centerbore: ≈60mm (suit toyotas) i also have some 25mm spacers i can chuck in with them with the centre bore and hub sizes perfect for these wheels to go on a nissan. for reference GTS-t and S14 stockies are 16x6.5, S13 are like 15x5.5 or something and GTR's are only 16x8 so these are a great cheap upgrade. Prices: Fronts: $120 Rears: $350 Rear rims only: $180 Rear tyres only: $200 Front and Rears: $450 Spacers: $100 Located near mitcham in SA, can post anywhere in australia for around $150 Pics (rolled them across a muddy ground, so they are a bit dirty, but can still see the tread depth etc): more pics upon request if ur serious.

a day to fix the LCA? its like 2 bolts or something lol

ok, but u did say control arms, hence why it was all over the place, especially considering S13's dont have upper control arms at the front, only at the rear. and remember, S13's and R33's both have completely different front suspension.

yep, RE050's, although i think they are running the improved RE050A model (quite a big difference). same tyre the 17" VX/VZ commies and 18" VE's run i beleive. they are quite a good tyre, but not the same level as RE-01's. they also have poor tread wear, besides wearing quickly they tend to wear unevenly (quicker on the shoulders).

lol define all rounder, u say that to a tyre shop and they will fit u with these: http://www.bobjane.com.au/Tyres_range/tyre...p?mk=1&md=0 if ur after maximum performance on street and track then go with the RE-01R, Direzza Z1or AD07 imo, if ur after a tyre which will give u best performance on track but be legal to drive on the street with, go the RE55s.

ur gonna have to be a lot more specific, ur all over the place, u talk about tie rod ends, then u talk about upper control arms, are u talking about the front or rear, or both? and if u mean both then specifcy front and rear, front and rear is completely different.

lol ended up costing me like 1k in the end, even after having all the chassis and structural work done professionally. i bought a engineless front cut off a bloke and after using the parts i needed i parted the rest off and made back the original cost of the front cut plus around 1k on top. the quote i got from an average repair shop, was between 12-15k i think. hence when i see people paying almost 2k for tiny bolt on repairs, i cant help but laugh. just need to be smart about how u do it.

and charge u stupid amounts for it too. also id be weary about calling the majority of suspension places "experts". majority dont know shit, and will put in whatever makes them the most $$. they are salesman first and foremost, dont think for a second they always act with ur best interests in mind.

6. complain about how much u spend on ur skyline

btw, just so people get an idea, this was after hitting a small wall at around 40-50k's: only things replaced in the steering/suspension were: LCA Caster rod (took a direct hit) and caster bracket and crossmember (not 100% whether it was bent tho) car drove fine afterwards and has a decent alignment which is all that really matters in the end.

lol, sounds like ur average quote for that kind of damage, it's called sales. they quote the exact same parts for every crash like that, its basically just them trying to milk as much $$ out of u as possible. i can gaurentee you that you DO NOT need all of that stuff. first thing id do, take a look under, compare everything to the other side, ur LCA will be bent (the LCA joint will come with a 2nd hand LCA anyway), ur caster rod bracket's are weak as piss, so they often bend, caster rods dont break all the time, depends on the angle they are hit, usually unless they take a direct hit, its other parts that will give way around it. tie rods, well they shouldnt bend unless they take a direct hit or the wheel was forced well past full lock, they are ball joint and designed to move around so will just move with the hit unless they are taken beyond their range. wheel bearings, lol, dont worry, unless they were on there way out they will be fine. crossmember, possible, depends on a few factors, usually u need a fairly hard hit to bend the cross member, compare the end of it to the other side, they come standard with a bit of a kink at the end so u need to compare it, its not something u wanna replace unless u have to as it is a bit expensive and is a bit harder to change than other parts. upper control arm should be fine, they are quite strong and can put up with a lot of beating before they bend, much more than what u sound like uve done. beleive me, ive done all this shit before quite a few times lol