nisskid

here's the issue, firstly as far as our cars being illegal, well so are majority of the cars on road, difference is our defects are chromed, polished or painted and easier to spot than cracks, rust and worn parts underneath ur average car. our cars are no more illegal than your average car, in fact a lot of the time less illegal if you were to put them through regency. for years defects have been used to crack down on "high risk" groups of people, you pull over someone u suspect of being a hoon, but didnt catch them in the act, bang defect. we arent actually requesting any special treatment, simply that we be treated like a normal citizen who doesnt have police constantly trying to defect them.

btw shotgun park next to R35.

f**k...yes. need to get some advertisement cranking, get some flyers around the place.

Just wondering if anyone knows the motion ratios for R32 suspension, could measure it myself but cbf haha need it to do some maths, mainly need to know how much lower a spring which is 1" shorter but 1kg/mm harder will be on the rear of a R32. cheers

hardly a fair comparison though, firstly i doubt they were the same brand and model tyre (might have been tho), 2ndly ur reducing the size by 20mm each size, of course ur going to have less grip, that doesnt mean the stretch was responsible for lower grip.

definately, but that has already been covered, no one is debating that. we are talking about whether its safe. i know personally i have stretched over the years for drift, whether it be due to tyre availability or simply looking for tight, predicable sidewalls, never had an issue, but u will lose grip. saying that, it depends on the tyre, if all ur running is cheap street tyres, then sometimes some stretch is better, over the years ive sometimes had street tyres on the front which have soft sidewalls, and found that stretching them a bit (225 on 9" kind of stretch) actually helped as it stopped the sidewalls from flopping around. saying that if ur running proper performance tyres with strong sidewalls, there is no need to stretch, and you will lose grip.

hey dude, sad to see it go, let me know if u decide to part it out, looking to build up a R31 in the near future so would be interested in some of the parts. would love to buy the thing outright but bit out of our price range.

any documented cases? because ive never heard of any, i'm sure they are around, but the fact i havnt seen one tells me they arent very common. a 245 on a 10" is only one size under the reccomended, do u really think tyre manufacturers would reccomend a 255 on a 10" rim if they knew the size under could potentially cause a failure, resulting is pretty massive compensation? they keep a massive safety margin because they can, theres no need to reccomend a 245 on a 10", it doesnt make any significant impact on sales, but it gives them a massive cushion for any complaints.

lol at those 2 points. how many cases have u heard of that happening? its just tyre shops/manufacturers saving their arse. the biggest issue ull have with stretched tyres (im talking properly stretched tyres, like <205's on 10" rims) the tyre can roll off the bead.

the sizes u posted arent stretched, well not much at least, they will be fine, albeit not as grippy as something wider. not exactly sure what response ur after? wider will have more traction yes.

how wide? 19" Starcorps on a GTR makes me sad

im gonna go with shit driver sorry not to say there might not be setup flaws, but the way u describe it makes it sound like u cant keep the thing straight, even with baldies and stock suspension i didnt have my car stepping out on me through the hills unless i wanted it to, skylines really arent that violent, in fact they are pretty tame relatively speaking. get a basic alignment, anything that cant be seen in a basic alignment wont affect ur car as much as ur talking about, my advice is to maybe go some carbon fibre shoes or something and lighten up that foot on the accelerator.

the 35 at the rear is because its wider, since the profile is a aspect ratio, the 35 on the 265 will have a similar size sidewall height to a 245 with a 40 profile.

spare tyre i have been told u dont need, but i have chucked mine in every time, im sure someone could lend ya a space saver, dont think anyone actually ever uses theirs lol. like others have said i think, u do need an eye level one, just a rear window brake light from any auto place will do. i went through without child restraints and didnt get picked up as i did like urs, took them out and couldnt find them. i think they usually only look for them for compliance, not something they look for with roadworthy. btw im not reccomending anyone to go to regency without this stuff, just telling u my experiences with how they have picked on them.

not 100% sure about the 2" thing, i know that used to be the law, but im pretty sure these days it runs on overall rolling diametre, but not many cops really know about it (bit like most defect laws really). would be worth calling regency about that one.

mm interesting, i dunno, pretty bloody inconsistant, although ive found that calling them up they tend to be more strict, they tend to have the attitude that everything is illegal, i guess its so when they get in there people dont say oh i was told this on the phone ra ra ra.

correct about the HICAS, i have been through the bs with it all. i ended up putting the standard system back in, and locked it with washers (PM if ur wanna know how). the only issue was since my lines were looped, so my lines only went back half way. it passed, but im not sure how hard the inspector looked at them. and obviously they dont check as to whether it works as they cant. its a grey area as to whether ites allowed or not, it will come down to the inspector, as there are 2 issues there, firstly with a lock bar you are relying on a non-standard part with un-engineered welds, so it is an un-engineered part which "could fail". 2ndly there is the issue of not having the hicas working, we all know how shit the hicas is, but to regency that doesnt matter, apparently since the car was designed to have 4WS, it needs to have 4WS and that if it doesnt it is a safety risk. if anyone goes and asks nissan (regency, major crash investigation etc etc), nissan will say its there for a reason and that it not being there is a safety issue. now of course there is the issue that lower spec models didnt even come with hicas, so realistically its just all bs, but thats how it works (that was all according to a suspension engineer i talked to about it) but it also brings up another point, u can just put in a non-hicas subframe, either a S13 or low spec R32 etc, im currently running a S13 sub-frame with a custom toe rod setup, i havnt been through regency with it yet, but i will find out what they think later next month. as far as the locked diff, they will probably notice it when u drive in, and obviously its illegal.

depends on the sidewall, but those sizes u put up are not much of a stretch, well within safe. with 309kw (going by ur sig) id be going for a staggered sizes, give a bit more meat on the rear to help get the power down. for a 18x10 id be going 245/40 or 255/40 front, 265/35 or 275/35 rear. depends on the availability and price etc

nah sorry, XD9's are quite heavy.

yeh i remember one day at AIR i took some basically brand new RE050A's to chuck on the front if the ones on there at the time werent good enough. ended up running out of rears and had to chuck them on the rear, had the things in pieces within 5 laps, and that was only with 180rwkw or something at the time. was an expensive lesson, what are they, $250-300ea new? the worst part is i knew from personal experience as well as being told about them, yet i still chucked them on. also one thing to remember is tyre pressure is everything, people put like 40psi in their tyres thinking it will make them last longer (myself included), but realistically overinflation will cause delamination really quickly, obviously with drift ur tyres will heat up bloody quickly and raise the pressure even higher. now i run around 30psi in all my tyres, and they last forever.

tbh if ur interested in "tuning" them id try and see if u can get them on a shock dyno, cheap dampers like these generally have pretty poor adjustment, not all of the adjustments will have an "acceptable" curve, in fact in some in some cheap damper dynos ive seen theres only been one setting with anything even resembling a proper curve. they seem to have a base adjustment, and all the adjustments from there have progressively worse curves. id be finding the base adjustment with the best curve and just sticking with that, regardless of how hard or soft it is, a lot of the difference between the soft and hard settings can just be high frequency which gives the feeling of a harder setting, but doesnt actually control roll much if any more, and can just cause worse traction.

how low is the car? (eyebrow height)

lol i actually found the dunlops really resistant to delams back in the arse drag days, even when i used to crank high pressure in them. also as a general rule, dont bother with 2nd hand potenza's on the back as common as they are, they will delam really quickly. brand new its a different story.

im gonna have to disagree there, the biggest part of drift is balance, having a lot more traction at the front than the rear will make it hard to hold angle, sure it will oversteer easily, but it will be more likely to wanna snap around. i think its better to learn on a balanced setup, even if u run stockies all round. developing ur technique on an unbalanced setup will make it harder when u have a more balanced setup later.

oh man i didnt even think about that maybe PM: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...onnon-m529.html