nisskid

ok so the twin scroll stays separated right up until exiting the wheel? i was under the impression it was only separated til just before the wheel. i'd like to see this thing tested on track cars, additional moving parts with track temps makes me nervous. i would rather see a back swept design, which is spring loaded (adjustable) which is opened by exhaust gases, once the exhaust gases build up enough pressure, the flap starts opening, once they reduce, it closes back up. the design could be much simpler, with less parts to fail.

i still don't understand how this works, the wheel and housing stays the same size, in my head it's like putting a restrictor in any part of the manifold, the diametre decreases, so the velocity increases through the restrictor, but as soon as the diametre increases again, it simply slows down again. i know this "restrictor" is immediately before the turbo, but it's still the same volume being pushed through the same area around the wheel. i can only think there is some merit to the idea of the pressure being directed onto a more efficient part of the blades.

now $1150

more pics please

ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS 15" 2x 195/50 - Pirelli P6000 - 60% tread - $70 2x 185/65 - Hancook Optimo K495 - 60% tread - $70 16" 2x 205/55 - Michelin/Pirelli (Mismatched pair) - 40% tread - $40 2x 205/55 - Michelin/Pirelli (Mismatched pair) - 60-70% tread - $70 17" 2x 205/50 - Advan/Michelin (Mismatched Pair) - 80% tread - $80 2x 215/45 - Goodyear/Pirelli (Mismatched Pair) - 50% tread - $60 2x 215/45 - Altenzo Sports Comforter - 60-70% - $80 2x 215/45 - Altenzo/Strata (Mismatched Pair) - 80-90% - $90 2x 225/45 - Dunlop Sport 01 - 50% tread - $60 2x 225/45 - Dunlop/Pirelli (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $60 2x 235/45 - Maxxis/Nankang (mismatched pair) - 80-90% tread - $90 2x 235/45 - Maxxis/Strata (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $70 2x 235/50 - Goodoyear Excellence - 60-70% tread - $70 2x 245/45 - Michelin/Firestone (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $60 18" 2x 225/40 - Continental ContactSport2 - 30-50% tread (for drift etc) $40 2x 245/40 - Ventus SP K104 - 60% tread - $80 2x 245/40 - Bridgestone/Dunlop (mismatched pair - sidewall damage in 1) - 60-70% tread - $60 2x 245/45 - Yokohama Advan Sport - 60% tread - $70 2x 245/45 - Yokohama/Bridgestone (mismatched pair) - 70-80% tread - $80 19" 2x 255/30 - Advan Neova AD08 - 60% tread - $110 Located near Mitcham in SA

price drop to $1900 ono

f**kn hot shit. my rig almost done with what i want. the height was set in osaka before a 1000km road trip fully loaded ready for 160km/h cruising (with decent bumps n shit on the highway), flamin mongrel had 8 tyres in the back with a diff, tool box, 4 rims with tyres on them in the back seats with all my luggage, knuckles, hubs, spare parts etc etc, by the time this pic was taken it was almost fully unloaded so probably an inch higher than when i set off in osaka but was about to leave so didn't bother resetting the height for a photo.

im confused, are you saying i should use E or EY?

the question is, why do they still use the standard ones if the V's are better? they are identical prices, so makes me wonder why they wouldn't just make it redundant.

good call mate, they were 6E's, just bought some 6ES's, will probably chuck them in tomorrow, i doubt it'll do much whilst still fresh, but if anything hopefully they don't foul up as quick. how does it affect the RB's? is there all that much difference between the V and the flat faced one?

ignition system from the coilpacks to plug is fresh, running AU coilpacks with leads, probably should have mentioned that haha. coilpacks are brand new, leads are new etc etc. was gonna measure for voltage drop, but haven't had time.

it's dry/matte and comes off quite easily, not sure if there's a way burning oil can give that effect, but i just assume carbon. it only really appeared on 2-3 of the plugs, but that itself would explain the slight miss i was getting after a few events.

hey guys, have an RB20 tuned on E85 to 250rwkw on 18psi, it's a track car, but it seems to be fouling the plugs every few track days. some come out covered in carbon, some ive pulled out before that almost looked like water corrosion a bit with what looks like rust on the bottom of the thread. they are BCPR6E's gapped down to .7mm wondering if it's worth changing the heat range for these now i'm running E85, or is the issue possibly in the ignition system which is causing them to not ignite properly, which might be causing the fouling? cold start is irrelevant, as long as she's on song when it's warmed up and ready to go. i've read a few threads, but the main one on the topic of plugs with e85 turned into a shit fight about e85 itself. cheers

Hey guys, have a RB26DETT here from an R32, the engine has 76,000km's on it, but developed a knocking noise, we are unsure what the knocking noise is, but my mate just doesn't have the time to work out what it is and get it fixed. So his loss is your gain, selling it cheap as unknown condition, it still runs etc, just with the knocking noise last time it was run. It includes all your turbos, AFM, everything from the engine bay associated with the engine as it's coming out of a complete, standard GTR. He may look to separate parts from the engine, so offers are welcome for large accessories to the engine like turbo etc. He also has the gearbox from it which is in good condition, as well as some goodies from the GTR shell, but that will be in a separate thread. ITEM: R32 RB26DETT Long Motor 76,000k's CONDITION: Knocking noise from engine, rest seems to be fine (Turbos, eletrical etc etc) PRICE: He's looking for offers near $2200 LOCATION: Near Unley in SA CONTACT: Call/SMS on 0403767163 PICS:

as kriss mentioned, the tape is a pretty universal thing, we do it here too depending on scrutineers if you don't have laminated covers on your lights(most older cars). the slash on the number plates in japan are slash plates, basically like our trade plates here, except they are kind of a cross between tradies and permits as you usually only have the plates for a certain period, and you basically rent the plates for a few days.

LOCATED NEAR MITCHAM IN SA TYRES ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS 16" 2x 205/55 - Mismatched pair - 50% tread - $40 2x 205/55 - Mismatched pair - 60% tread - $50 2x 205/55 - Nexen - 60% tread - $60 17" 2x 205/50 - Mismatched Pair - 80% tread - $70 2x 215/45 - Mismatched Pair - 60% tread - $60 2x 245/45 - Michelin/Firestone (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $60 19" 2x 255/30 - Advan Neova AD08 - 60% tread - $110 WHEELS Info: Set of Rays Engineering/Volk Racing - Challenge Wheels, Genuine, no copy shit here, white with red inners. (Made in Japan) Specs: 5x 114.3 Stud Pattern 17x8" +32 -- 235/45 Tyres (60% tread) 17x9" +35 -- 255/40 Tyres (70% tread) Fit overs big calipers Condition: Great condition, a few scratches here and there, but good overall. Price: $950 Pics: http://img541.images...59/img0547m.jpg -------------------------------- Info: Pair of STERN Wheels (Made in Japan) Specs: 5 - 114.3 Stud Pattern 17x8" +32 -- 235/45 Tyres (60% tread) Fit overs big calipers Condition: A few scratches here and there, but good overall. Price: $200 Pics: (one on the left) http://a2.sphotos.ak...7_6560505_n.jpg PARTS WRECKING BOTH R32 and R33's, post in here or PM me what you're after. a few specific parts: TRUST GREDDY gear knob: $50 DE-CAT (gutted standard cat) suit nissan: $70 R33: R33 GTR Rear Strut brace (fits all R33's): $90 RB25 S1 AFM: $100 R33 Brakes, uprights and hubs (complete) - $800 R33 front Upper control arms - $70ea R33 Upper control arms/Traction arms - $50ea R32 3" Straight Through Exhaust (from dump back) - $250 RB20 AFM: $100 R32 GTR grill: $140 Whiteline 22mm Solid Rear Sway Bar (+links): $150 REINFORCED Rear Subframe - Reinforced and Solid mounted/Lifted(improves strength, rigidity and roll centre) - $200 Front Sway Bar - $40ea Front Complete upper control arm assembly's including bracket and king pin bearing - $100ea -- PICS PICS Front Camber Arms - $40ea -- PICS Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS Rear Hub Uprights - $100ea -- PICS PICS Rear Complete Uprights - $70ea Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $40ea -- PICS Door (drivers side), 2door (coupe), silver with few scratches - $50ea Drive-shafts - $50ea Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $30 and $70

pm sent

Grab yo ass a deal, im pissing off so i need cesh to buy party drugs and drugs are expensive. LOCATED NEAR MITCHAM IN SA, CAN POST (WHEELS) ANYWHERE IN AUS TYRES ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS 16" 2x 205/55 - Mismatched pair - 50% tread - $40 2x 205/55 - Mismatched pair - 60% tread - $50 2x 205/55 - Nexen - 60% tread - $60 17" 2x 205/50 - Mismatched Pair - 80% tread - $70 2x 215/45 - Mismatched Pair - 60% tread - $60 2x 245/45 - Michelin/Firestone (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $60 19" 2x 255/30 - Advan Neova AD08 - 60% tread - $110 WHEELS Info: Set of Rays Engineering/Volk Racing - Challenge Wheels, Genuine, no copy shit here, white with red inners. (Made in Japan) Specs: 5x 114.3 Stud Pattern 17x8" +32 -- 235/45 Tyres (60% tread) 17x9" +35 -- 255/40 Tyres (70% tread) Fit overs big calipers Condition: Great condition, a few scratches here and there, but good overall. Price: $950 Pics: http://img541.images...59/img0547m.jpg -------------------------------- Info: Pair of STERN Wheels (Made in Japan) Specs: 5 - 114.3 Stud Pattern 17x8" +32 -- 235/45 Tyres (60% tread) Fit overs big calipers Condition: A few scratches here and there, but good overall. Price: $200 Pics: (one on the left) http://a2.sphotos.ak...7_6560505_n.jpg PARTS WRECKING BOTH R32 and R33's, post in here or PM me what you're after. a few specific parts: TRUST GREDDY gear knob: $50 DE-CAT (gutted standard cat) suit nissan: $70 R33: R33 GTR Rear Strut brace (fits all R33's): $90 RB25 S1 AFM: $100 R33 Brakes, uprights and hubs (complete) - $800 R33 front Upper control arms - $70ea R33 Upper control arms/Traction arms - $50ea R32 3" Straight Through Exhaust (from dump back) - $250 RB20 AFM: $100 R32 GTR grill: $140 Whiteline 22mm Solid Rear Sway Bar (+links): $150 REINFORCED Rear Subframe - Reinforced and Solid mounted/Lifted(improves strength, rigidity and roll centre) - $200 Front Sway Bar - $40ea Front Complete upper control arm assembly's including bracket and king pin bearing - $100ea -- PICS PICS Front Camber Arms - $40ea -- PICS Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS Rear Hub Uprights - $100ea -- PICS PICS Rear Complete Uprights - $70ea Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $40ea -- PICS Door (drivers side), 2door (coupe), silver with few scratches - $50ea Drive-shafts - $50ea Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $30 and $70

yep, body is a bit rough, but will be thrashed pretty hard, will be cut up to get back here anyway, so may as well smash the shell lol.

i reckon im gonna risk it, $300 for a stockie rear bar is f**ked.

this is what i have left in the tyres: 16" 2x 205/55 - Mismatched pair - 50% tread - $40 2x 205/55 - Mismatched pair - 60% tread - $60 2x 205/55 - Nexen - 60% tread - $70 17" 2x 205/50 - Mismatched Pair - 80% tread - $80 2x 215/45 - Mismatched Pair - 60% tread - $70 2x 245/45 - Michelin/Firestone (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $70 19" 2x 255/30 - Advan Neova AD08 - 60% tread - $120 also impuls are sold.

anyone know if C33 and A31 rear bars are the same? long shot, but im looking at 20,000 yen for a stock C33 rear bar, if i can knick the one of the A31 instead i'd be loving life.

yeh but why? seems like a lot of effort for not much.

rb25 pumps are 3 rib pulleys, at least all the ones ive seen :S

install a R33 power steering pump, eliminate your HICAS lines + you get a 3 rib pulley. you will need to switch over the feed elbow if you intend on keeping the R32 reservoir.