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nisskid

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  1. getting fixed, still very rough, but enough to pass regency after i fixed a few other things up. then after a few months of saving and working, replaced: -front bar (F/G GTR replica) -wheels (URAS NS-01 - 17x8/9 +30) -suspension (bilstein dampers, whiteline sway bars and misc whiteline adj bushes) -exhaust (JunBL muffler with twin flutes + 3" dump and gutted cat) -turbo (RB25 turbo), a FMIC (since i had mangled the standard SMIC) -clutch (exedy heavy duty button clutch) -locked the HICAS -fuel pump (Bosch 040) then the ECU was remapped by Jeff at the Speed Lab, 182rwkw on 12psi time for some skids: Grip praccy:
  2. bent and defected, she took a bit of a hit, went over a small wall. barely any damage sustained to other side, even the front bumper was in good nick on that side until i ripped it off see the top of the chassis, little bit grinded up rest of the car is in good nick see other side has been left untouched suspension's f**ked, well most of it, springs seem to be untouched
  3. Then it was complied and registered, as soon as that was done it was time to get started: pulled off the spoiler and did a duct tape job: 3" straight through catback with shitty resonator cannon, also chucked an ECV on, as well as a K&N pod: quick dyno to see what she's pulling: impressive for a close to stock engine (exhaust + pod) gave the rims a paint: then lowered it on king spring sports lows:
  4. Ok, so i bought this thing back in late 2005 and brought it into Australia from Japan through Prestige Motorsport, here's a rough break down of the costs at the time: Importing Process: I imported through Prestige Motorsport Car was bought for 360,000 yen Brokers Fee $1,100 another $3,000 to get it into the country $1,400 for compliance and another roughly $1,000 to get it roadworthy the car came in a bit rough condition, mainly the paint was faded in places and the body was a bit rough, interior was a little dirty, mechanically it was pretty good, just a few minor issues from sitting around in japan. anyway this was it's beginning: WHEN I GOT IT IN JAPAN: IN AUS:
  5. as opposed to asking on a forum?
  6. 19x6.5 +30 would be the most fitting, but that is about as helpful as having Paris Hilton on ur team for quiz night. need more details, what u want to run, what sizes/offset are available, what look are u going for etc etc
  7. that could work, but ull be struggling to fit them with just a roll, especially with those size tyres.
  8. pretty sure fronts will foul on the upper control arm depending on tyre, rears should just clear the rear tie rod ends as they are 18" diametre.
  9. sorry next time ill try to be an idiot about it. also try ringing nissan maybe, i wouldnt be going just on what a few people are saying on here.
  10. yeh the modenas inspired me to go for the old school look, as soon as i saw them on my car i decided id look for some more old school style wheels in Japan, then stumbled across the OZ's at a great price that i couldnt pass up. both great wheels, the Modenas are much lighter than the OZ's, but the OZ's offsets are a bit better suited to my modified guards.
  11. have you thought about calling up regency and asking them?
  12. Hey, just wondering if anyone knows of a supplier in Japan or even Australia for offset bushes for putting newer subframes (S14, R33, R34 etc) into R32's. i have been told of one, buy they are asking an arm and a leg, and with the exchange rate as it is atm its way too pricey. any suggestions?
  13. please people, OFFSET DOESN'T DIRECTLY RELATE TO CALIPER CLEARANCE!! it only relates to where the disk sits relative to the centreline of the rim/barrel, caliper clearance is to do with the spoke design relative to the mounting surface of the wheel, a lower offset usually means the there it is easier to achieve more caliper clearance, but it doesnt directly relate to it.
  14. flutes are nice, but bit overdone these days, for the track i run just a single 3" pipe out the back, looks great. only reason i still run the flutes are that they have the JunBL muffler with them and i cant really be f**ked changing the tips. flutes: 3" pipe (best pic ive got unfortunately)
  15. we need to know disk type, offset actually doesnt relate directly to brake clearance, disk height determines brake clearance.
  16. because u didnt want to die? lol yeh, grinding the arm that connects ur wheel to ur car, that sounds smart!
  17. yeh would be worth checking ur regs, i tried, but says the file is damaged: http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/resources/...r_vehicles2.pdf this is where i got it from: http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/Home/Indus..._modifications/
  18. yeh, there is. read the first dot point under number 8 (wheel and Tyres) http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyre...8340/0/VSI8.pdf ive seen a similar rule in most states.
  19. yeh i fail at maths, 26mm/2=13 so with a stock offset of +40, +27 is the limit. have a guess what my daily driving set of wheels are? +26 but for an officer to find this out they would need to pull the wheel off as the offset isnt visible from the outside. so put simply, dont worry about being defected on technicalities with cops, if they want to defect u they will defect u regardless of whether ur within specs or not, they rarely even know the proper laws themselves. ive experienced this first hand a few times and ive had legal wheels defected before, nothing u can do but pray when u get pulled over.
  20. i edited my post as i thought instead of talking about all that other legal shit id mention that quite simply, chances are the wheels u have on now are illegal anyway. what width are they? if they are over 7.5" then they are illegal. so if u want to get anal about legalities then ur going to have to sell urs off anyway and get pizza cutters (19x7.5) oh and when i talk about cheap, im not so much talking about price, im talking about quality, they are made on the cheap, the alloy is about as dense as john howard's hair, which basically means to achieve strength they need to use a lot more metal. this usually means more weight and less strength. also wheels sold in Japan must comply with alloy wheels standards, wheels sold in Australia dont, this means there is no regulation regarding the quality and safety of wheels u buy here. ive seen way too many cheap wheels sold here in australia fail under surprising light circumstances. also, unless ur planning on taking those wheels to ur grave ur going to have to sell them one time or a another, so may as well plan for resale value. most of the cheap wheels u buy here are just copies of wheels made in Japan and Europe, they are flooding the market with these copies at less than what the original manufacturers are, and people are too blind to look past the low prices and realise what is going on, this is killing the original manufacturers who spend time and $$ creating original products only to have some company come in, copy their work and produce a knock off version for cheaper which people buy instead. this kills creativity as the original companies cannot keep up with spending so much $$ on creating original designs when some company is just gonna come in and steal their design and take their business. these are not the people i will be supporting with my business, and u can understand my frustration when i see other people doing so.
  21. er... i buy smart, i buy 2nd hand and i import directly from Japan, the wheels i buy are quality wheels which usually cost quite a bit brand new, i always make money on re-selling them, tell me the last time u saw someone make money, or hell even break even after buying a set of cheap shit brand new and trying to sell them 2nd hand. i'm happy to keep paying half the amount on decent quality wheels as u pay on cheap shit, then make back $$ while u lose hundreds to depreciation the first time they are fitted to ur car, i dont think that makes me cheap, i think that makes me someone who is actually using my brain. as far as offset making ur car illegal, u realise that according to the law in most states ur not allowed to increase wheel width by more than 1", this makes majority of after market wheels illegal anyway, unless ur running 19x7.5's which is quite simply undeniably gay as aids. also ur allowed up to 24mm track change i beleive, so for skylines i think that means ur allowed about a +26 offset, which is a start, better than the +38 bs that tempe tyres and similar seem to specialise in.
  22. i think 19's can be made to look good, i actually think a lot of it has to do with the kind of people who buy 19's and their taste in wheels, it's just generally people who buy 19's buy shitty wheels with crappy offsets and it just looks poxy. people who spend their money on decent wheels and get the offset right generally go for a different style where 19's are a no go. people keep posting pics up of their car with 19's but ur not really helping ur case as every example i have seen in here is of cheap poxy wheels with shadow offset.
  23. ive been in plenty of cars with different size wheels and profiles, i honestly dont know how u can sit there and say there is no difference between a smaller wheel/larger profile and a bigger wheel/lower profile in terms of ride. let me put it this way. these are the facts: they have a more uncomfortable ride in general perform worse in general cost a lot more cost a lot more in tyres transfer more shock into suspension components and the chassis (possibly causing wear and damage) if u honestly think these sacrifices are worth what u think u gain in looks then go for it. i just personally like to see the styling suit the car, and big blingy wheels on a turbo sports car will never sit right with me.
  24. oh and to the other people defending 19's, good for you, if that's what u want then go for it, but nothing stopping me from expressing my opinion on the matter, after all that was the basis of this thread. as far as affecting performance for driving ur cars to buy milk, my question is if ur not too worried about performance from daily driving then why the hell did u buy a turbo sports car? as far as ride comfort, its pretty simple really, having tiny sidewalls means u have f**k all compliance in the sidewalls, that offers an uncomfortable ride, as i said its one thing to sacrifice comfort for performance, it's another for "looks". it's not really a subject up for debate, a lower profile will cause a more uncomfortable ride in general. looks are subjective, i personally go for more tastefully styled cars, i despise the sex spec style, even in its less extreme examples, it seems to be more about over compensating for a lack of style, "if we make them big enough, they will look good" MR_XTC: quite with the bs, save the shit about maturity and telling me to grow up for someone else, you're not going to get anywhere with that.
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