nisskid

doubt it, not really sure what car u have though, but will probably foul on UCA and probably the chassis rails on full lock.

lol its just the fuel being burnt off early in ur exhaust system, its just back fire. a stock recirc valve vents off air which has already been through the AFM and recorded as air, so ur AFM is recording more air then is actually in there, so ur engine pumps in fuel to match, but finds there is not enough air to match the amount of fuel, hence running rich and extra unburnt fuel being passed into the exhaust, which ignites on the hot exhaust.

rates are overkill for the street.

ahk, mm tempting, might have to jump on the next one then, see what the funds are like, might be able to make this one.

just wondering when people are going to receive them? wouldnt mind seeing some pics of them first, im tight on cash at the moment

u wont need 40mm flare, 20mm flare should be suffice with stretched tyres. if u dont want stretched tyres then either go wide body or reduce the size and raise the offset.

nah thats bs, as the buyer ur entitled to know exactly what ur buying before u transfer the $$.

he's pretty busy mate, he gets some ridiculous amount of PM's to go through, so usually theres a few days delay. probably better off giving them a call at their shop if it's urgent about a product u bought.

Robbie and Rhys arnt the best examples, they are prime examples of westernised drift, big power, big speed, big smoke, lazy transitions and soft entries. Can hardly compare a team which spends 100's of thousands on their cars to someone simply wanting a bit more lock on a budget. i do agree, obviously in an ideal world where money grew on trees ud go for a more expensive option and iron out any bump steer, but if ur on a budget, money can be much better spent else where. going a different rack will give u a bit more lock over the R32 rack, but not as much as the spacers give u, well from what ive been told, i havnt tried the 2. i can safely say from first hand experience the rack spacers made drifting a lot easier, for $10, its a bloody good budget modification.

those modifications are used by the top drifters across the world, they are hardly crap. depends what ur car is for, but u have to remember that with drift, grip isnt as important as it is in racing, gaining more angle, more response and predictability often take preference, depends what style of drifting ur interested as well. gaining a lot of angle is often worth sacrificing a little amount of grip.

nope, car is hardly a top level competitor, so on a budget the spacers are fine, i have a lot bigger issues than bump steer at the moment, and without much $$ to work with, spacers were the best option. saying that, i may be replacing the current rack as it seems to be having issues: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...es-t228810.html so might just go with something with more lock.

wait, he cant just look at the tyre and tell u what they are?

ive used steering rack spacers, they work fine and give u a decent amount more lock. cost fark all, labour is the main cost if u dont do it urself.

will do

hey mate, few k's south of adelaide city, sorry, not willing to go that low though.

have u read any of the responses? ur question has been answered 3 times over.

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1. as i mentioned, those figures are at stock height, once lowered to the recommended height the camber goes up to around -1.5. my car is a track/street car but the setup is designed for track, so treat it as though its purely a track car. now since its meant for the track, -1.5 might be fine, but id at least like the adjustability, and with the whiteline bushes i am un able to get below -1.5 at reccomended height. 2. still, regardless of what im using there is something not right, this is my main issue, not so worried about camber as the car is more track orientated, not being able to reduce the camber below -1.5 isnt such an issue, but having only 5 degrees of caster is whats hurting, especially for drift. 3. not so worried about excessive camber, just a bit worried about how it varies so much from side to side. the spacers sound alright, but really id want to be sure they could fix the caster issue as well, how exactly would they affect the caster?

nah sorry, fine has never won a DA championship, he came 3rd in 05 and 2nd in 06 in his AE86, he didnt use the onevia till 07, where he fell back to 7th in the championship. i beleive darren appleton won in 05 in his onevia, but not sure what suspension he was running back then, although back in 05 the suspension wasnt really as important as it is today, driver skill was a lot lower and the competition was no where near as tight as it is today, car speeds were much lower etc.

rather than me starting a new thread, just wondering what u think could be the cause of my lousy alignment specs. Front: Camber, L: -1.6 R: -1.15 Caster: L: 5.1 R: 4.9 Rear: Camber, L: -0.7 R: -1 now this was at standard height, 2 notches up on the bilsteins than the one they come on to pass inspection. so when lower the rears were around -1.5 and the front was around -2, the caster was similar, maximum i got was 5.5. unfortunately i dont have a printout of when i got it aligned at the lower height, but these figures reflect pretty much whats going on. currently im running whiteline adjustable rear camber bushes and ISC caster rods, i was running the whiteline caster bushes, but couldnt get enough caster, so went for a quick solution for a track day, got a bit more caster out but not much. camber bushes are at their limit and still cant go far below -1.5 at around 345-355 front and 340ish rear. caster is at its limit and cant get more than 5.5, and even then it had to be wound back down to 5 as the other side couldnt go above 5. chassis was recently straightened to specs, rad support all correct, its been to about 3-4 different aligners and same result, im seriously out of ideas.

if i was u id worry about the basics, quality damper, suitable spring rates, height adjustability and strong components. dont worry about things like damper adjustability as its just about useless with ur application. this is why i think tein basics sound like a great solution for people on the street, i would love to hear more about people running the basics, but it seems most people go the super streets. the Tein basic dampers correct me if im wrong, are pretty much super streets without damper adjustability and a few other little things, and as i said before i dont think ull really see any use of the damper adjustability in ur case. in fact if anything id say playing around with the damper in a cheaper one without any experience or tuning tools ull probably hinder the performance rather then improve it, even if it "feels better" ive heard good things about teins, although only ridden in or driven a few cars with teins, jap and aus spec, so i cant talk much about them first hand, but the damper and spring rates are much more suited to aussie roads than a lot of the jap or korean/taiwan/chinese coilovers. SK's group buy is a great solution for the road, they were great for ride comfort, and depending on how hard ur pushing through the hills u will probably not notice much difference in speed. unfortunately they are not height adjustable via a thread, they are circlip adjustable which is a bit of a bitch, so might not be ideal for u, although tbh i dont really see the point in constantly changing ride height, find the right height and stick with it, ull find the best height for performance is still quite practical and doesnt look too bad either. if ur dead set on height adjustability id be grabbing the tein basics for $1300-$1400 or whatever they are, and spending the difference of a more expensive coilover on some whiteine adjustable sway bars.

need to know what ur current alignment is and what u can get at the moment. if ur happy with ur current alignment then i dont see any point going aftermarket arms, stock arms are strong enough to take a decent beating, id be more worried about aftermarket arms breaking.

if its a daily commuter, wouldnt it make sense to go for a more street setup? u can still have fun in a car with softer spring rates, on the street u wont notice as much difference as the car is not being put under the same load, even pushing the car through the hills. so let me ask u this, is a tiny amount of speed through the hills once a week or so worth putting up with a much worse ride comfort for the rest of the week?

what do u use ur car for?