omrae

Yes really and if you keep insisting it will show me how much you really know

Forget about all the other mods your car has, did you know as soon as you replace brake pads or even rotors that are not factory genuine items technically you have broken the ADR it was complied to

A typical brake system uses square section seals not orings, you ask what seems to be a fairly technical question but dont know the difference between orings and square section seals. What are you trying to achieve.

Orings for which part of the brake system

they wont fit

What if you put the locking nut on the other side of the plate you wouldn't need to redesign anything

Dear Fury 30 Who cares if the actual car isn’t the original car, the actual car is worth nothing unless you have the original log book, the log book is worth more than the car. As to proving if the car is original who cares and you can’t prove it 100% anyway. There are a few people who could possibly say yes it is the car but won’t bet their life on it. Also I have spoken to some people who know the car and have said there is a lot of things missing especially it you want to race it in the same class as the other skylines.

So pointing out that every bit of information that was given to him was almost usless isn't HELPING THE GUY

Now we've all turned into a bunch of apologizing soft cocks

How did i get it wrong when i pointed out you were wrong and you agreed (2 wrongs don't make a right)

cazz chill out it aint the end of the world or anything important

If the subaru caliper mounts to the front and the gtr caliper mounts to the rear of the upright how can they both be leading calipers, unless they aren't differential bore calipers

Like you said, pull it out of you arse maybe your cousin can help

That's right you brain surgeon after you've killed someone because you didn't have the experience or back ground to judge the right components other than paint color or photo angle, your f**ken sorry isn't going to be good enough

Didn't know engineering was so simple, angle at which the photo's are taken and metallic paint, f**k me what do i use the vernier and mircometer for

Sounds like a straight foward conversion to me, bore this out, tap that out, put some spacers in here and there, oh shit need to hammer the crap out that. And there you have a complete dogs breakfast, shit i saved some money hope it works

Pretty impressive. I hope this was at the end of one the straights and not in the pits, how did the brakes actually stand up to the punishment of calder which is hard on brakes and what brake pad compound are you using, are you happy with the pads

I would try and keep them similar as possible but the front could range anywhere between 72% to 65% and it shouldn't be a drama

It's not just as simple as T04GTR suggests, the R32 front spindle uses M12 bolts to bolt the caliper on where as the 350Z calipers use a M14 bolts, what you need to do is drill out (not recommended unless you know what you are doing) the holes in the R32 front spindle to suit the M14 mounting bolts. As far as taking the high spots of the caliper be careful because on the caliper there are bridge seals close to the OD of the caliper, too much grinding in the incorrect place could cause a fluid leak.

Yes this would have some effect, it would be like putting the hose in a steel tube, that is if you used a zillion cable ties(not exactally the same but it would have a similar effect)

Sorry but you guy's aren't getting the point, the point is how much force is required to get to a certian pressure. Anyone can can wide the pressure up to acheive 3000-3500 psi which is well within the modulus of elasticity of the rubber or teflon (bradied line) but how much force (pressure) is being absorbed by the line. It's very simalar to not how much horsepower you can make but how much do you lose through the drive train

I think it's just a case of the journalist having some space to fill in and not actually understanding what's going on. I have been involved and done similar tests and i know how to manipulate percentages, just measuring the expansion of the hose is not good enough. If you are going to do this type of test you must ensure each hose is the same length and new (not like the rubber hose shown). Also the machine used to do the test as shown in the article is not adequate for this type of testing, it keeps pumping pressure until its reaches it set pressure, the way it should be done is see what force is required to reach a certain pressure this will tell you how much the pressure the hose is absorbing. I’m certain a braided hose will out perform a rubber hose anytime.

The brake rotor and caliper aren't the right offset for the hub assembly you have bolted them to. It sounds like the rotor is hitting the caliper, it might spin without the wheel on but once you pull the rotor up solid it hits the caliper or maybe even some of the suspension components. Try bolting the rotor hard up against the hub without the wheel (use the wheel nuts up against the rotor, you may need washers to get the depth) that way you can see what's hitting.