BOOSTD

Would this be why some rb26 blocks leak coolant out the side above the oil outlet hole?(which is between 3-4) May explain why my radiator fluid looks like the Exon Valdize shipping lane and the coolant out the side of the block. btw. I'm not to fussed as I'm building a RB30/26 but I've seen a few rb26 motors with the leak out the side so this is quite interesting. I hope the rb30 doesn't have the same issue.....

The PFC does use fuel cut but for the rpm limiter only. Your problem sounds like "lean popping" which would explain why putting the fuel reg hose back on made it better as It would have richened the mixtures up. I think going to the Boostworx for a tune will fix your issue. So on the right track there. You can easily goto SETTINGS - INJ/IGN - then under IJN increase the value between 1.100 to 1.200 which will richen your mixtures by 10-20% across the whole band for a test to see if the issue goes away and hence proving a tune is required. The change will revert back to normal after the car is turned off. You could get smarter still and goto MONITOR - 2 CHANNEL - 1 RPM, 2 AIRFLOW - then press right arrow to record the max peak. Drive upto the point that it stutters and record the AIRFLOW voltage (should be between 3 and 4.5 volts) Then goto SETTINGS - AIRFLOW - R32 Standard - find the corresponding AIRFLOW voltage and increase the mixtures 5% at a time. The points upto 5volts will all most likely need to be increased by the same amount. Don't forget to leave the highlighted bar over the correct AIRFLOW meters type before backing out of the menu. this change will save to the new values. matt

I have used CP in all my motors, no problem at all. You can get them from the US on ebay for under $700 a set delivered.

There are two on ebay, one is a Pro aswell with handcontroller. $700 & $650

put compressed air in cyl 5 and a vac hose into cyl 6 up to your ear, should be a hiss for the head gasket leak. Otherwise broken ring lans between the top and 2nd ring only loose compression but won't leak hardly any oil until the 2nd to oil retainer skirt breaks.

2530. RB20's have pretty average response at the best of times. Expect 1.1bar @ 4000rpm and 230rwkw also at 1.1bar

I wouldn't use the SpecII profec B if it is the one with the blue screen. Its is an absolute pain in the butt to setup....really touchy. The earlier Profec B is the pick, or even just use the Power FC boost controller.

pretty sure R34 turbos also have the larger VG30 style turbine housing

As above

After a couple of hours, I have the T04S 52 trim at the top of my list. In comparison to the T04Vtrim I last used, It has a reduced surge zone, is more efficient at the low boost that I will run and will fit into the std compressor cover. I may look at the GT30R ported cover if there is a chance it will fit. I'm sure i'll get a better results in its native cover. Comments?

How was it proven to be the head gasket and not two broken pistons?

please reply to my pm

lol, disco you were actually my first point of call for any new idea's on a newer more efficient and surge resistant compressor wheel. The new style turbine wheel looks like the ones used in the GT-K Turbonetics Turbo's.

After 4 years this turbo is still running 15psi without any problems Just starting a RB20 version for a friend....will keep you all posted.

Yes the Gap induces lag It was balanced

"Matt, some great stuff here for me to get my head into. I'm starting to think my setup is pretty close to what it should be but starting to sound like there's a bit of improvements to be had which is the purpose of this thread. Would be good for you to have a look at my tune sometime. I'm pretty keen to come out with your mates on a cruise soon to see some other examples. I have another friend who's just about finished his GTR upgrade too and could join. I tested my actuators before installing the turbos. They are HKS 1 bar actuators and using a regulator & compressor i could see they were starting to open at 12-13psi so i left them as is. Interestingly, my tuner didn't discuss or advise on boost at all. Nor did we talk about adjusting the BOV. Currently the BOV is set just above minimum so I will wind it to max and see what happens. As for boost i assumed my max was what was set on the dyno (1.1) and never to go above that? I haven't considered anything over 1.2 - makes me nervous. Given the focus on actuators in these responses I want to retest/reset my actuators to make sure they are spot on - what pressure would you recommend I set them at to start opening and to fully open? Should i really consider upping my boost past the dyno tune max of 1.1?" -Your actuators sound to be set ok, I would leave them( adjusting up to 1.1 from .9 wouldn't make much difference to there response) -BOV could be a leaking issue if it is set as low as you say....your boost pressure is not that high as yet though -1.1 Bar !!! wow I'm quite impressed with your power level then -I wouldn't increase boost without a wideband AFR and PFC hand controller for knock feedback. If you sold yours I have a PLX. But yes get the boost up!

R33 GTS 4 Door RB26 PFC MV Automatics modified 5speed Auto Everything else stock 11.8 @ 120mph WSID

1 bar at 4000rpm..I assume in 4th.. is a wee bit sleepy for GT-SS's. I have 1 bar at 4050rpm and +ve boost @ 1800rpm- you know the setup I am running. Also your compression readings do seem high if that was an accurate reading. Though if true you should have even more response than expected and low ignition values up top...say 10-16 degree's ???? From my last car I bought from M***** I see his tuning has gone away from high ignition timing and rich mixtures to economical AFR's and less timing. May just be the way he tuned the ZOOM 4 door RB26 but I would be interested to see your tune. Another check would be to see what you min boost level is....if your waste gate actuators are wound out to soft you will get average boost response no matter what. I set mine to just below the min boost I would run, which is 1.05bar. I assume the BOV you bought is adjustable...I would screw it closed also for a quick check. If your exhaust was blocked if would expect the difference to effect top end....... Your power level seems about right on the low boost level you are running. I can understand the reasoning to run only 1.2bar as the mapped efficientcy level does drop off when looking at the compressor map at over 1.25 bar. However HKS recommend 1.4bar.......Probably because of the HKS housing. Which is much different to Garrett as I have had the two side by side. The dyno graph attached which I assume is at the engine does look how I would expect from what you have told me response wise. I have been in two different RB26's and they make 1bar by about 3800- 3900rpm on the stock turbos...the transient response however in much better than the larger turbos.. I really don't think there is a massive rpm difference to reach one bar off boost between stock, GT-SS and GT2530's ...maybe 500rpm.......as the other graph shows Hope some of this blurb helps

$415 atm

Power FC doesn't drop to PO1 on gear change, check your map trace

increase timing after peak torque

I have listed them on ebay starting at 1830hrs search for "Mines GTR AFM" Perfect condition Cheers Matt

Worn No 6 Rod bearing will do it.

Dyno IT 56 ! Hmmn, shield those pods

You have sparked my interest, I could highflow my GT2860R-5's with the 2535 compressor, however I have noted only a 40ps increase in flow over the 2530's and they 2535 wheel has a larger inducer....not sure how well this would perform.. very interesting though. GT2530 320 63 47.7 60.1 60 50 0.60 76 53.8 47 GT25 Internal - GT25 0.64 T3 Internal - Skyline Type 0.64 GT2535 340 56 51.6 69 60 50 0.60 76 53.8 47 GT25 Internal - GT25 0.64 0.86 T3 Internal - Skyline Type 0.64 GT2540 350 46 51.7 76.2 60 50 0.60 76 53.8 47 T3 Internal - Skyline Type 0.64 GT2540R 360 46 51.7 76.2 70 50 0.50 76 53.8 47 GT25 Internal - GT25 0.64 370 0.86 GT-RS 400 52 51.2 71.1 60 50 0.60 76 53.8 47 GT25 Internal