BOOSTD

how about a GTR cam on the Exhuast side only, just like the 256/260-264 combo

how about a GTR cam on the Exhuast side only, just like the 256/260-264 combo

Role Cage Group Buy.. Would be the best investment IMHO.

My car had stock inkectors and fuel pressure, so the map would run your car. I have to stress that at high boost it detonated quite badly without 98 octane fuel. Every car is different ! But it may get you into the ball park before the final tune saving some time and therefore dollars. My base timing may have been retarded making the advance on the map look huge....there are soo many variables even on similar engines.

Pod behind front bumper shielded from direct force(keeps it clean and free of bugs)

Power FC PRO for a 94-95 GC8 WRX ?

From Grepins Thread, posted by SK regarding the GT2835proS Hi grepin, I like it, it has.... 270 rwkw at 7,300 rpm 277 rwkw at 6,300 rpm 246 rwkw at 5,300 rpm 210 rwkw at 4,300 rpm That's an average of 251 rwkw over the useable rpm allowing for gearchanges. There are plenty of cars with over 300 rwkw that don't average 251 rwkw. I think it would be a nice car to drive, fast and progressive. BTW guys, notice this dyno run was not in Shoot Out Mode, so no ambient air temperature compensation. If it was a 31 degree day, then on a 19 degree day it's gunna make a smidge over 300 rwkw with an average around 270 rwkw. Wanna guess what the A/F ratios would be then? In my opinion Mick has done a good job, looks to be both safe and powerful, you don't see that everyday. As I said at the start, I like it!

Yes to an extent, the R34 turbo's also have a alloy(silver) wheel. VG30 turbo's are almost the same but have a slightly smaller compressor and have the nipple on the compressor housing. If there is any VG30 or RB25 BB turbo's on the shelf that have a larger nut on the compressor grab one of them. The are pretty rare but can handle alot more boost before self destructing as they have a thicker shaft.

tyre's do need to be replaced if not certified to the appropiate Aust standard. Can't remember what numbers but it is printed on the side wall.

Forget the numbers, All RB25 turbos have a groove in the compressor snout near the top of the blades. S1 as you said are steel and S2 a composite and black with single blades instead of duel. VG30 turbos have a wastegate outlet pipe mounted on the compressor cover. The trick is to get a VG30Ball Bearing Exhuast housing and bolt it on to a RB25 turbo. Some places have stacks of dead VG30's so can be done for free. It is a direct bolt on however be careful not to angle the housing when removing as the turbine housing as it can snap off the turbine reasonably easily(I know =). The best is to put it in a vice heat it up and it slids straight off. I have personally done this mod on an Rb20 and it made 15rwkw more with the same boost and less detonation. Exhuast note was noticably loader tho. happy boostin

Forget an EBC save ur money and buy a HKS actuator or just oval out the holes in the waste gate mount and increase the tension to the disired psi. Will give you the quickest spool available.

oh sorry, that part I wasn't to sure...I know it was a TD06 tho. It definately had slicks, I watched it run.

MattR's car when owned by Japanese Motorsport ran a 11.3 with a RB25, TDO6 20G, Subzero plenum, stock internals in a GTS4 shell with GTR rear diff and obviously in 2wd. Made 301rwkw on tilbrooks dyno.

My educated guess keep it under 250rwkw, minimum requirement is a Bosch Motorsport pump, adj fuel pressure reg -no more than 10% increase, Z32 A/F meter, Power FC, FMIC, Aftermarket Turbo, zuast. Air fuel ratio's of 12.3 or richer. *Keep mixtures stable- the more stable the closer you can go to 12.3. *Keep ignition curve 2-3 degrees below the 60 knock limit point on a power fc depending on temps. matt

my 2c From personal experience I made 250rwkw with a bosch Motorsport pump std fuel pressure rail and std injectors. A/F ration was 12.3:1 and any increase to the fuel map made no change to the mixtures. My engine lasted a couple of months and went bang on a cruise without octane booster...as you would expect. I rebuilt the engine and again used standard injectors this time with a nismo adj fuel reg. i found increasing fuel pressure did the trick however my mixtures were never stable. I was told and soon saw on a flow bench that increasing fuel pressure past 10% caused the injectors spray patterns to be distorted which in turn caused uneven burn between cylinders. Time went past and I picked up some 264 cams from BUSTER and installed them. I made 13rwkw more with an up in fuel pressure but stangely enough my mixtures were constantly stable through 5 odd dyno days. The only difference being cams which would tend to support RBVS's theory. I personally think the std injectors can flow quite abit more than 370cc however spray pattern is the first to be affected to the point of hydraulic lock and missfire. The cams enabled the effect of a distorted spray pattern to be reduced and engine life extended because of restabilising of mixtures... goes to show cams could be a good investment if not purely sort for a power increase. matt

I'll take it =) pm me with account details and i'll put in $600 plus postage to Sydney area as I'm over sea's. Cheers Matt

I thought the engine, turbo, loom, ecu and gearbox was $4000 as you stated in your other thread??

Haven't heard of a T04E Vtrim.......Somethink similar size to a HKS2530 will have good spool and make the power you are after at reasonable boost 14-17psi depending on ur setup. Cheap options are a R33 stocker which will have similar spoolup than a 2530 but be limited to 180-200rwkw on anb RB20 and also max 15psi due to the closed turbine trim and ceramic turbine. Another cheap option is a VG30 non-ball bearing turbo which is a direct bolt on and has a larger steel turbine enabling boost upto 20psi. Lag will be increased but 210rwkw will be reachable. I have seen a T04E 54 trim installed without any turbine side mods and It made 3rwkw more than the stock 33 turbo. it was then modified with an external gate(mounted directly on the turbine housing) and made 8 more kw on the same boost. Then bored the turbine snout and made another 12rwkw. The ceramic 32/33/Vg30 turbine is just so massively restrictive after 14psi that a new compressor won't make much difference. Then there is the issue of turbo life, the T04E will make good power(250rwkw) but needs a decent wack of boost to do it, you will have trouble making 15 or more psi with the ceramic turbine as the design just doesn't create enough torque to drive the compressor to the shaft speeds needed. Also the smaller shaft(most of them accept a few BBVG30) ceramic equiped turbo's won't last long at high boost pressures. So having said all that, I would go for a compressor on the larger side which can make the power you are after at say under 15psi boost. A T04E 50 trim would do the trick no worries with quite good spool-up @ 210rwkw however if that isn't honeslty the max power you would ever want go a bigger comp like the T04 vtrim that will make 250rwkw at 15psi. I still haven't seen anyone put a T04 Super Vtrim in yet.....I think that would be the way to go 210rwkw at nice low boost with acceptable spoolup and room to spare for later mods. Sorry for the long winded post but I haven't talked turbo's for a while :confused: GCG do a replacement turbine and shaft that retains the BB internals, but, dirt cheap they are not.

Do you mean T51 56 trim or T04E 54trim ? I am not familiar with a T51 54trim.

Is the rear diff cover finned ?

This wouldn't happen to be-----auto , non turbo

If you want to fit a GTR engine and box with front hubs/shafts into a GTST the fire wall needs to be modded, Awesome Automotive are doing one now. Cheap to =)

LOL My tricyle would drift much better with a square frame rather than cylindric!

.48 a/r turbine housing will need 20+psi to make more power than stock, will be still a struggle at that without an external gate. This turbo would be more suited to a CA. May be an easy option to bolt on your standard Turbine housing or even a VG30. will have a tonne more power at less boost and also bolt straight on.

does it have forged pistons?