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Everything posted by BOOSTD
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My upgrade plans - Advice required
BOOSTD replied to EnricoPalazzo's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I've seen 330rwkw with standard injectors and Adj Fuel pressure reg. Apparenlty the injectors have issues closing at such big pressure tho but for 260ish just a reg should be fine. -
Ok have found some more info. Has been installed on a Dodge neon 2.4ltr 8.1:1 compression 4cyl 20psi boost max by ~3000rpm resulted in 284rwkw @ ~6000rpm -tIAL 38mm wastegate, cast manifold, .63 A/R exh(I think) Very very nice. I have 2.5ltr 6cyl 8.7:1 redline at 8200rpm..... getting a little excited here. http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/rele...lease051404.htm
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All very fuzzy info at the moment on this turbo, some info below. The GT3071R has the same compressor(71mm) as the GT2835Pro but larger 60mm turbine....wouldn't it spool up later than the HKS item.. In what way is it better... is the 60mm GT35 turbine that much more efficient that it spools earlier than the cut down GT30.... cheers matt From ATP TURBO Turbo is the newest addition to the Garrett Ball Bearing Line up. It fills in the requirements for small displacement 4 cyl. engines and has a excellent response characteristics. It spools up 1,000 RPM sooner than the older GT30R. The Dual Ball Bearing GT3071R Turbo comes assembled with T3 style turbine housing with T3 inlet flange. Turbine housing style available in Standard GT or with T3/T4 Ford Style 5 bolt turbine housing. Compressor housing is T04E frame size with 2.00 outlet. Compressor inlet is available with 2.75 or 4.00 inlet.
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Only the usual, PFC, FMIC, EXH, FILTER, ADJ FUEL REG, PUMP
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Correct. This turbo has a ceramic wheel which results in sledge hammer style boost build. This turbo will not run more than 16-17psi boost due to the trim on the turbine. Due to the larger compressor wheel, the turbo spins at 90,000rpm instead of 121,000(t3) @ 15psi. Ceramic turbine failure is very very unlikely. Even at 17psi rpm is only 96,000. I have constantley made 250+rwkw on 4 different dyno's on 14-17psi. if you can't afford tyres DO NOT BUY tHIS TURBO- I was getting wheel spin on acceleration in 4th with 18" 275's. Good turbo for drift.....not very good for the hills as boost hits way to hard. RB25 would expect FULL boost by 4100rpm RB20 would be slighly later
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13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).
BOOSTD replied to rev210's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
The test were posted on SAU. The search button is our friend. -
13.4 second 1/4 for your 'stockish' R33. (A how to guide).
BOOSTD replied to rev210's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Apexi. Tested and proven, best flowing and best filtering. -
whats up with the avatar....
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looking at the back of the turbo you can see the turbine. The round metal surrounding the turbine is what is bored out. So one you are done there will be a larger gap between the turbine and surrounding metal.
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As the title states, I am looking at purchasing Turbonetics T66 with ceramic bearings and .7A/R exhaust housing with P trim turbine. Has anyone has any experience with a T66 on an Rb25? I have to make a D on purchase today... My mods, forged pistons, rods, ported and polished head(major) with modified combustion chambers(squish zone), 264 cams. cam gears, HKS exhaust manifold, 8.7-1 compression. thanks matt
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opps my bad, I forgot that run I was steering through the side windows.
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no worries benm, i'll let you get in my slip stream again. =) I have that and a few other runs on DVD if you are interested.
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No stress guys, I was in secure parking while I went out bush with work. Got a call from the police saying my car was sitting on a jack and spare tyre with the rims gone and windows smashed. Came back 3 days later to find the car inside and out pretty trashed. They broke into the secure parking with and oxy torch, stole a wheel and jack from the car beside mine to jack up mine with and the rest is history....Alot of effort, but after adding up they made away with $15000 worth of gear. All covered by insurance...hence the "No Stress" I have found time to get a few more parts...like a HKS stainless manifold of ebay for $152US and hopefully a Turbonectics T66 ceramic Bearing turbo.
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No stress guys, I was in secure parking while I went out bush with work. Got a call from the police saying my car was sitting on a jack and spare tyre with the rims gone and windows smashed. Came back 3 days later to find the car inside and out pretty trashed. They broke into the secure parking with and oxy torch, stole a wheel a jack from the car beside mine to jack mine with and the rest is history....Alot of effort, but after adding up they made away with $1500 worth of gear. All cover by insurance...hence the "No Stress" I have found time to get a few more parts...like a HKS stainless manifold of ebay for $152US and hopefully a Turbonectics T66 ceramic Bearing turbo.
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How to adjust exhaust tappet/valve lifters?
BOOSTD replied to NewKleer's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
you can't. May need new oil or new hydraulic tappets. -
How about a Turbonetics Ceramic Bearing turbos. They need 50% less power to spool resulting in ultra fast spoolup and are stronger and more reliable than ball bearing. FAQ @ Turboneticsinc Q: Do the ceramic ball-bearing turbos "spool up" faster than a normal turbo? A: YES! The ceramic ball-bearing design reduces the frictional loss that occurs with a conventional floating bearing-and-thrust system turbo. The ceramic ball-bearing design allows the turbo to accelerate much quicker, thus decreasing spool-up time. In most cases we have found our ceramic ball-bearing designs require 50 percent less energy to drive the turbo. Turbonetics created the ceramic ball bearing turbocharger for durability. By utilizing a single, ceramic, angular-contact ball bearing on the compressor side instead of the more common bronze piece, the ball bearing can absorb the thrust loading that all too often can lead to turbo failure in high performance gas applications. The Turbonetics ceramic ball bearing turbo can withstand up to 50 times the thrust load capacity, compared to a conventional floating bearing unit. *Dual ball bearing turbos can only withstand 2-3 times more thrust loading than standard turbos. TURBONETICS CERAMIC BALL-BEARING turbochargers are winning races and setting new records all over the world. Rapid “spool up”, excellent transient response and unequalled durability combine to make the CERAMIC BALL-BEARING turbo the ULTIMATE TURBOCHARGER for successful race-cars and boats on tracks everywhere. The NASA inspired angular contact, CERAMIC BALL-BEARING design (Patent pending) practically eliminates thrust bearing and operational surge failures. The CERAMIC BALL-BEARING system can safely handle 50 TIMES more thrust loading than conventional turbochargers, making it ideal for severe transients and extreme pressure ratio applications.
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I don't think the shaft needs to be removed. I did not do that part myself however so couldn't tell you definately sorry. Yes the centre of the comp wheel needs to be professionally enlarged if you have a big shaft VG30. Russell Engineering(works for ATS) in Adelaide did mine for me.
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kewl, Bill from ATS is the one who helped with this turbo. Definately the guy to talk to
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it wil still need machinin just no as much maybe 1mm less. yes you should be able to decease lag with the .7 A/R comp in theory.. The RB20 Comp cover is different to the Rb25 and VG30. Don't think a T04 will fit. The VG and Rb25 turbo compressor housing will bolt onto the Rb20 turbo. make sure the VG is Ball Bearing as the non ball bearing is different.
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What can you tell me about this turbo?
BOOSTD replied to T0nyGTSt's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I know the one T04E compressor I think... supposed to make 500hp. Would extimate max 220rwkw from this on15-20psi. they rated 500hp at 30psi pffft external gate would help tho... -
if the comp cover bolts on, than yes the .7 A/R would improve power and reduce the occurance of surge. The exhuast snout size would have to be reduced to compensate for the increased spoolup time from the larger A/R comp cover.
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The groove doesn't in essence reduce only surge. It does it by reducing how fast the turbo spools by reducing compressor efficiency. Average power is reduced with the groove, so getting it right without the groove is the better option. The car was very unexciting to drive without rapid boost build. I found with dual stage boost control, I could still make more boost a low rpm. Not sure what the MOTEC can to ,but , if you can control boost build you can control surge.
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comp wheel installed only
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33742 Have a look at this 500hp, 20psi by 3000rpm on a 2.3ltr