BOOSTD

most likely peaking up near redline at 15.7 psi. I wouldn't go turning the boost up because it will boost very high lower in the rev range before the turbo runs out of flow.

Police blocked us in at Harndorf Oval. Luckly they let us go, maybe from some persuasion from a certain WRX owner who also wears a blue suit. After that we were greeted at almost every other regroup by the boys in blue. Also got lost again and again. I had fun tho, sat with Munro's 34 most of the night.

I definately got my five bucks worth !!!! hang on Miss*33 paid for me. Anyway I would have paid $5 for every lap the JMS 33 did, as Timmmmaaayyy would say "Orgasmic". Pitty the Pirelli tyres he used I was looking at putting on my car. Owell not sure how 285's would go under my guards anyway..... Didn't see any police on the way out. In contrast to Friday night....hooly dooly

I did the 12.9 with 220rwkw and 255 17" tyres. My 2.2 60 footer shows the launch was crap. I have to get the rear end sorted. Haven't run with the new turbo as yet. Managed to get the turbo to hold 1.2 bar @ 5000 rpm then trail off back to .9bar , was getting wheel spin in forth.....running semi slicks now to !

bump

My internal gate looses boost at high rpm, I've tried everything and it won't hold more than .9bar after 5000rpm. I could fix this with an external gate, but, why! I'm not interested in making more power!!! The tyres are just to damn expensive. (brand new 18 inch 275's lasted 6 weeks)

Mine was non alloy, just a remade stocky.

Good turbo, makes approx same power as the equiv HKS at less boost. So if your intake track is restrictive the HKS would be an advantage. And if it has good flow, go the garret. HKS has better spool-up Garret=less need for a head gasket R u confused yet

Jay: D1Garage here in Adelaide. Everyone- Cam gears are very easy to fit, do it urselves. I paid $70 for dyno time/tune. Found that -4 degress is pretty spot on so I wouldn't bother getting it done on the dyno. However every car is different, lets just say if -4 degress gives you a very noticable difference, leave it were it is! The difference to me is like how the car runs on a cold day compared to hot.

S2 R33 turb, so it has a plastic comp wheel? Be careful as they can't run as much boost as the S1. Don't stress if you intend on running less than 15psi as they have better spoolup anyway.

Currently BP Ultimate,but, with Wynns Race Formula Octane Booster. With the stock turbo as above just Normal 98

The wastegate actuator has to be changed( to your old one), if the housings are rotated. rbs13: VG30 has the nipple on the comp cover, the rb25 gets its sense from the intercooler pipe.

Probably a question for Sydneykid... My 33 came across to the Aussie side with an aftermarket Chipped ECU. The car was labled a freak cause it constantly made 10-15kw more than any other car with the same mods. A strange thing occured to me, the VCT with the "chipped ECU" wasn't being activated untill 5000-5500rpm. Also was running massive timing advance. I am wondering if there is any advantage from doing this???.....I can't see how there could be unless it has a different inlet cam. Anyway felt really cool, sort of had three power bands.

Straight bolt up for all!! VG30bb will have no more lag, but, make less power than RB25 VG30 non bb has a bigger exhaust wheel and makes more power than the RB25 but is laggier Intercooler pipes don't need to be changed as the Tri bolt flange on the comp housing will bolt up to any of the RB turbo outlets.

oh and -4 degrees equates to ~1.9mm on a cam gear with no marks.

My cam gear cost $80, is a no name brand and made an extra 13kw at -4degrees. Noticable reduction in spool-up time- maybe 100-200rpm. Exhaust note is louder at low revs to.

I had an OS twin sprung type, was the best clutch I ever had, Drove like standard yet hooked up at 7000rpm in 3rd and 4th. I wouldn't use a sprung type for drift as they glass up when slipped just like mine did. I have a solid HKS twin now and the car is a pig to drive and rattles like nothing else.

I just clean mine with solvent, they come up good as new.

I have the full EVC 4 manual. I have my scramble set to 0 seconds so it activates only when my button is depressed. Full Fast and the Furious Style !

About half VG30 turbo's come with a larger shaft. Non bb type I think, they also have a large turbine and make more power.

Actually , having read the original post again. If you can get the blow off valves to bleed more air at part throttle you will most likely solve the problem. Might be an idea up grading to a larger flowind BOV.

Oh wow my specialty, GtstGtr Your problem does sound like comp surge as Steve said. There are a stack of ways to get around it. Firstly depending on how bad it is. If it isn't to bad a small amount of efficientcy can be taken from the comp wheel buy machining a small lip into the snout down near the compressor inducer blade. This lets air escape past the blades when the turbo wants to surge. Will reduce flow but maybe only a couple of kw's worth. All standard GTs25T turbo's have this if you want to have a look at what I 'm talking about. Basically what is happening is your small turbine is spinning up the compressor faster than it was designed to which brings it on boost earlier, therefore into the surge zone of the compressor map. An adjustable cam gear can help you control how quickly the turbo comes on boost also. With my own turbo experimentation I found that my turbo needed to spool up a great deal later,1000rpm later in fact and there for the only way was to machine out the turbine snout--->increase the clearence between the wheel and the housing. Power increased by over 50rwkw. What you want ! 1. less inlet resistance, less outlet resistance and/or 2. More Lag Fixes 1. Bigger A/R comp cover 2. Machine a grove into the comp snout 3. Control boost with adjustable cam gear or two stage boost controller ie 12psi till 4000rpm then auto switched to 15psi 4. Machine out turbine snout and leave original wheel (grealty increases flow and gives more lag, however less aggressive boost response as compared to a larger wheel) 5. Larger turbine wheel.....works the same as no4 but will give better spool up and cost alot more. 6. More restriction in the inake before the turbo would help to.

Relinegtr: I think he is lookin at two No axial play is a good sign, sounds like they would be close to new. Removing the compressor cover will reveal if the Comp wheel has had any wear and enable you to check clearence with blu-tack.

The clutch doesn't come out with the box.......

mmmmmm traction, are well it's nice to dream hey Steve.