BOOSTD

I have run both both turbos had Identical response 2530's made 380rwkw@24psi SS manifolds 2860R-5 made 361rwkw@27psi standard manifolds putting the SS manifolds back on soon. Had to run 6 degree's less timing with the 2860R-5 and std manifold setup. let me know if u want a dyno graph.

does not work with the datalogic box. just tried seems to get close, as in partly loads, then errors.

were they the HKS GT-RS or garrett?

Sorry, what I meant is if you are going sideways in a manual and slightly back off it will reduce wheel spin and straighten up in a controlled manner, however an auto on backoff lets off alot more on slight throttle decreases due to the stall convertor and causes snap back. Mine has a high stall which I'm sure makes it even worse.

U should get over 400rwkw with C16. 350-380rwkw with cams on PULP

yeah be careful on back off, they bite

The 4 speeds are stronger from factory so u should b able to run that power without cracking the trans open...and a trans cooler would preserve it some more. I did that time with 244rwkw a 2800rpm stall and cheapo chinese street tyres.

for N1's to work well u also need a N1 manifold as the turbine inlet/outlet are larger for N1

Is it the five speed or 4? i have a 4 door auto which has run a 12.2 on street tyres, the 5speed auto's are extremmely nice with a 2800 stally and firm shifting. talk to MV automatics.

I'm making 244rwkw through one of these, they are not a bad thing.(gtr cat)

looks very similar to the standard turbo response.

wasted money hmmn, if we compared prices ........................

I use VHT copper head gasket sealant on all my metal gaskets, works a treat. Rocket and some good auto shops sell it. Cubes: I have a second hand 1.2mm 87mm Trust head gasket. I have re-used these before, just separate the layers, strip the old sealant and recoat with copper spray. works a treat. I wasn't convinced it was ok until Peter from Advan Advised he does this on a daily basis with no problems. It is a bit of dicking around but heaps cheaper.

I'm in Sydney, does yours have the horn plate on the bottom, mine comes with hicas plug and horn wire... Happy to pay postage

I think the point to take away is that the std manifolds are crap for anything over 350rwkw and definately do not improve response over the chinese ebay stainless mainfolds 517Z's, 2860R, HKSGT2530@24psi and my 2860R on std manifolds@26psi At 95km/h, 85kw 95kw 90kw 85kw At 112km/h, 105kw 140kw 130kw 130kw At 128km/h, 155kw 240kw 200kw 200kw At 145km/h, 255kw 305kw 296kw 317kw At 160km/h, 330kw 325kw 315kw 350kw At 178km/h, 360kw 350kw 355kw 361kw At 194km/h, 365kw 358kw 372kw Chart stops I do have a chart that keeps going and power drops off after 178km/h as does boost also....down from 26psi to 24psi at 200km/h The drop in boost starts at 169km/h at the 350kw mark. The 2530's with the stainless manifolds did not drop boost at all. Full Boost is also made at identical points compared to the 2530's (134km/h)

chasing an auto box for an R33 GTS4 with the part number RE5R01A Cheers Matt 0413023669 or pm

As the title says, I have just bought a boss kit for my Momo Evo Millenium Steering wheel only to find my 33 doesn't have Hicas, so if anyone out there has a non-hicas boss sitting around new or used, I would be happy to swap. Cheers Matt 0413023669

I've seen 210rwkw, you would get a similar result from a much cheaper R34 RB25 turbo.

28psi was past the efficiency peak for sure, they are quite happy at 1.6-1.7 bar. With my stainless manifolds I would expect them to make similar power to the HKS 2530's...then again I only ran the 2530's at 24psi and they made no more power after 26psi.....sort of goes against thecompressor trim. I think GT2860R-5 ported to match a pair of N*power manifolds ($299 of Ebay) is the way to go. Expect to have to clean up and face the manifolds tho. They turbo inlet is 38mm X 40mm and the manifolds are 38mm x 47-48mm (N1 spec). I can say my standard cast manifolds did not increase my low-mid response. I'll be re-installing my stainless manifolds soon.

what the, I'm seeing double

Ok results are in. HKS 2530's with stainless manifolds 380rwkw @24psi GT2860R-5 with stock manifolds. 361rwkw @26psi 350rwkw @25psi 341rwkw @23psi 335rwkw @22psi The low to mid reponse is an identical overlap to the 2530's would be interesting to see with the same stainless manifolds

Ok results are in. HKS 2530's with stainless manifolds 380rwkw @24psi GT2860R-5 with stock manifolds. 361rwkw @26psi 350rwkw @25psi 341rwkw @23psi 335rwkw @22psi The low to mid reponse is an identical overlap to the 2530's would be interesting to see with the same stainless manifolds

Just make sure you take the spark plugs out as per the nissan manual otherwise you will over tighten it which is all bad. so 1. losen idler pulley bolt so the spring comes into play. 2. turn the crank at least twice 3. Use an allen key to hold the pulley and tighten to the recommended torque(having the idler pulley bolt over tight and snap is also all very bad(read-24 bent valves)

Yes, thanks for that. It's well known that retarding the exhaust cam will increase exhaust gas flow at low rpm in turn bringing boost on earlier, The advanced inlet cam causes a lumpy idle and better efficiency at high rpm....which can be seen on the dyno graph. I wasn't comparing the cams, but, what the different settings will acheive. His exhaust cam has been set at 0 Maybe the timing belt is loose and the cams would dial into in+2/ex-4 who knows, however comparing before and after graph lines its pretty obvious the tune favours top end by the shifted torque peak.

interesting to see they have gone +6 on the inlet cam.....I have -4 on the exh and have 1 bar of boost by 4000rpm in 4th...if you look at yours, peak torque comes on later than before the tune...+6 may give it top end....but weren't u after mid range......hmmmnn -what the