BOOSTD

Bare with me guys I have 10billion pm's.....well maybe 8 billion. I'll post the photo here by the end of the week.

This turbo spec has made 300rwkw on an RB25 here in Adelaide, car ran an 11.3

They groove near the compressor is to reduce efficientcy. It is done to get around surging problems. The Rb25 turbo has the same thing. Any idea of the turbine size??

...and the turbine?? I'm gathering the wheel is no smaller than ur old turbo, if so it should flow at the very least as much as an RB25turbo(49mm comp) but will have more lag. also depends on the trim and wheel shape-post a pick of the compressor. I should be able to give you more precise power figures then.

yep, use a piece of string across the turbine then put it beside the ruler, and you want to measure the smallest part of ur inlet snout....might have to estimate alittle.

disregard my post on performance forums, I have just seen the pics and realised its a VQ not VG. Measure the compressor and turbine and I should be able to calculate approx pwr and spool up time. If you can get two fingers into the exhaust inlet --(same size as ur RB20) the A/R will be close to 0.6. Three fingers wide will be around 0.8 A/R

I'll take a photo and post on here, only a limited number available.

Polished Alloy Catch cans Twin inlet with breather Clear side level indicator Drain plug $130 New +COD All enquiries to Mick on 0416085323 Also custom cans by order

I have a fuel ratio gauge connected to the oxy sensor, wouldn't use it for tuning tho unless it was calibrated against a dyno shops.

It will, they are the same size

The VG30 ball bearing will make less power, The VG30 Non,ball bearing will make slighly more say 10kw because it has a slighty bigger turbine, also a trade off for slightly less crisp coming onto boost performance.

rich-lean rich-lean. Its is called hunting, and is caused by ur idle up valve taking a to bigger gulp of air which the ecu over compensates for.

The ecu has a set threshold voltage for boost cut, however that volatge must be reached by a certain percentage of the time frame. This eliminates boost spikes and transients setting off the limiter. A boost cut defender stops the ecu seeing past a peset voltage or frequency limit. It is easy for the BCD to be set to low and lean out ur mixtures, because the first time it is set you might not get boost cut for a few days but the load the car up going up a hill and set it off. Subsequently the BCD defender get adjusted more still which in turn reduces your maximun fuel enrichment. So then the car starts leaning out and either goes bang or ur smart enough to do something about it so you increase ur fuel regulator pressure which gives you more fuel up top but stuffs up th rest of your rev range......as u can c u end up chasing ur tail. This is why we call it a patch fix.

yep, I will give the power needed at realistic boost levels and not a lag monster.

GT2535 is my pick for an RB25

I adjust my TPS for an output of 0.43 volts

Joel as long as you don't push to hard before it sets if you get my drift...otherwise you will stick all the fibres together.

joel: covered to whole lot with glue

here is how to begin analyzing a turbo compressor map, this will help you learn what makes turbo cars move, and why it is that some cars can run on stock turbos during elevated boost, and others are barely running in stock form on the turbo they have. 1) pressure ratio. This number represents the boost you intend to run, it makes up the Y axis of the graph. The numeric pressure ratio value is calculated by taking your target psi (15 psi for example) then adding 1 Atmosphere(14.7psi) and dividing the total by 1 bar(14.7 psi). The equation looks like this for our example: 15 + 14.7 = 29.7 29.7 / 14.7 = 2.02 2.02 is the refrence number that you would look at on the Y axis. 2) The X axis of the graph represents airflow in pounds per minute. As a general rule, each pound of air generated represents 10hp. This is flywheel hp and not wheel hp, so don't confuse the two. When looking at this be sure to account for driveline losses when you estimate your power output. 3) The third area represents the efficiency island. This is the target area you want to keep your boost at. This is where the turbo is at it's peak efficiency and thus runs the best. 4) These are the outer rings of efficicncy or wheel efficiency. As you can see from the numbers, each ring drops in efficiency and thus drops in power output. The percentage of efficiency lost and power loss vary from turbo to turbo, but as a rule of thumb you want to remain as close to your efficiency island(center island) as possible. 5) This dashed line is the surge limit. Any points to the left of this line indicate that the compressor wheel in quesation is too big for the expected boost and power output you are planning for. There would not be enough exhaust gas volume to spin the wheel fast enough to make useable boost. 6) This area to the right of the graph plots overspin choke. This means that the compressor wheel is too small and will have to spin too quickly to make the target boost/power. At these extreme speeds, efficiency goes out the door because the wheel chops the air so badly, this will likely cause a dramatic loss of power. 7) This is the compressor wheel speed in rpm. This measures the shaft speed of the compressor wheel. The faster it is spinning the hotter the outlet charge will be, and thus the lower your power output becomes. This is where a good intercooler comes into play. Turbo Matching: From your newly (or reviewed) skill on reading a turbo compressor map, you'll now need to be able to decode it into how it fits your engine, this will require numerous equations, all of which can be done simply without the use of advanced mathematics and will bring a great deal of illumination to the problem of perfect boost vs. monumental lag. This part of the process requires a sacrifice, but it's not so bad if you have a stock engine, or at least stock compression. A person with the 2.3T or 2.4T (and now 2.5T) engine is going to be @ a relatively high compression ratio, the hpt engines run a 8.5:1 CR and the lpt run 9.0:1 CR which means at elevated boost, especially over 20 psi, you're going to need either to reduce your compression ratio, or install a water injection kit, and even then it is not advised to go much over 20 psi at all on stock compression in the hpt engine, the lpt engine with it's 9.0:1 compression and less beefy cylander walls shouldn't exceed 15 psi without water injection and should be advised to be cautious above this level. The main point of using a compressor flow map is to determine if the compressor part of a turbocharger is sized properly for your engine. In order to do this, you need to know how much air the engine flows. The volume air flow (VAF), measured here in cubic feet per minute (cfm), is a linear function of engine displacement (here in CI), compression cycles per minute (RPM/2), and volumetric efficiency (VE). After doing some searching online, it seems that our engines operate at approximately 19.4 lb/min, knowing that every 10 lb/min is equal to 144.7178 cfm, our CFM equals roughly 266.28 ft^3/m. THIS IS AT 10 psi, if you increase your boost levels, you can expect to see: Stock: 18.4 lb/m @ 10 psi: 266.28 cfm Modified Boost: 23.0 lb/m @ 16 psi: 332.85 cfm 24.2 lb/m @ 18 psi: 350.22 cfm 27.1 lb/m @ 20 psi: 392.20 cfm If seen on the 15G map provided above, you'll notice that we're on that very narrow island of efficiency at 10 psi, and that once you're at 15 psi (around 319 cfm) you're really starting to heat things up over stock. However, you'll also notice how TALL the efficiency range goes, and how (compared to others shown below) much more efficient the midrange of this turbocharger is, especially compared to the obviously lightweight and heavyweight turbos we'll see soon.

Jap toyota supercharger...the 4AGZE with the electronic clutch would do it.

Steve: The door skin is in one piece which makes it hard to make a template. I ended up peeling the original material off and using it as a template. I glued it back after because I wanted the leather to have a soft feel. I used high temp proof contact adhesive. The leather was very easy to get neat as there are deep grooves in the door to push the edges of the leather into. I used a screw driver covered with tape(so it wasn't sharp) to set into place. Embroidery is possible if you have thin leather, cost me $15 a side. The leather was $50 a 1.5m x 1m sheet.(mates rates)

7.5w-40 is what the factory recommend.

Steve: I made up the white leather inserts myself, had the embroidery done down largs bay. Cost next to nothing.

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